stonerrocklives.com

(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/487899_611338548883398_708397185_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/188206_611546425529277_1772280471_n.jpg)

Excuse the shitty joints, Those eyelets are hard to fill and make nice.

We do have a builders thread ya know ;)

I fixed up an old mountain bike and sold it. Guitar wise? Still procrastinating on a Yamaha SGB 200 that needs to be refinished.

I'm not a builder! :(

so whatcha makin' there?. I love blue stripes on meg resistors  heh. 220 is cool too 3 red stripes.
looks like a 10k input impedance something that runs on <14v or so.  what are the diodes for? chopping the bottom half of the signal? is this some kind of effect?

Quote from: jibberish on February 17, 2013, 04:41:48 PM
so whatcha makin' there?. I love blue stripes on meg resistors  heh. 220 is cool too 3 red stripes.
looks like a 10k input impedance something that runs on <14v or so.  what are the diodes for? chopping the bottom half of the signal? is this some kind of effect?

Zvex SHO clone, I wanted to build one to reference a real one, so I can start using it as a platform for something I want to build!

I recently modified my DIY EA tremolo.

The rate pot was so sensitive as to be useless (and easy to hit by accident when stomping it on/off) and the depth pot I never use.

With tremolo disengaged (turning it full to right or left) the volume boost makes it great for solos.

So I swapped the rate pot with a trim pot sticking out of existing hole, stashed the gain knob inside the pedal (connected to too many things for me to figure out how to take out of circuit) and in its place added a toggle switch to go from tremolo pedal to lead boost by taking rate knob in n out of circuit.

Works great and am very pleased!


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

My GF has been playing a ton of ukulele lately but doesn't want to bring her vintage banjo/uke to my place or generally drag around town so I need to do a fret job on a cheap uke I have here.

Basically every fret is a different height, especially the third fret making a ton of chords unplayable.

Was going to just try woodblock and sandpaper since I don't think the neck has or needs a radius but any tips would be welcome.

Quote from: fallen on February 18, 2013, 11:15:28 PM
My GF has been playing a ton of ukulele lately but doesn't want to bring her vintage banjo/uke to my place or generally drag around town so I need to do a fret job on a cheap uke I have here.

Basically every fret is a different height, especially the third fret making a ton of chords unplayable.

Was going to just try woodblock and sandpaper since I don't think the neck has or needs a radius but any tips would be welcome.

Pretty much is set the neck flat, and grind them down with a flat thing. felt pen all the tops so you can see when you have got to the lowest one. Then round then all off and polish.

Quote from: Mr. Foxen on February 19, 2013, 07:36:59 AM

Quote from: fallen on February 18, 2013, 11:15:28 PM
My GF has been playing a ton of ukulele lately but doesn't want to bring her vintage banjo/uke to my place or generally drag around town so I need to do a fret job on a cheap uke I have here.

Basically every fret is a different height, especially the third fret making a ton of chords unplayable.

Was going to just try woodblock and sandpaper since I don't think the neck has or needs a radius but any tips would be welcome.

Pretty much is set the neck flat, and grind them down with a flat thing. felt pen all the tops so you can see when you have got to the lowest one. Then round then all off and polish.

600, 1000, 1200 grit, then finish with a dremel buffing wheel and jewelers rouge.

Would anyone be willing to help someone who has no idea what they're doing?

I want to put a tone bypass switch on my Big Muff clone and have no real idea of how to do it. I asked an engineer friend of mine and he gave me an extravagant explanation and made schematics. I just want to know what to attach to what. I'll be using a DPDT switch

This here is the pedal
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusg_sc.pdf
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusg_lo.pdf

If someone could tell what to connect where as if you were explaining to a 5 year old (ex. connect left side of R2 to this DPDT connector) or draw a simple diagram over the layout page it would be very much appreciated.

Pretty off topic but maybe not, I did have to build these. Models of a foot bridge redesign project.

Hand bent some 1/2" rod to a layout. The fun part was no glue joints allowed so I had to devise real mock up cable connections.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img202/3448/photo610.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img546/9654/photo618j.jpg)

and the short span
(http://imageshack.us/a/img836/491/photo626.jpg)

statics and dynamics are fascinating. I used to meditate on the structure of railroad bridges and what stresses are really on what elements. ps, I could destroy your bridge by shifting the two main arches parallel to each other. where is the triangular element that prevents that motion?   until those main beam ends get mounted on footers that bridge can break easily 

I dig how castles are put together with wedged stones, especially how they do crazy shit like spiral staircases etc.

all my audio products will survive the 10 foot cement drop test, speaking of dynamics annnnnnd wrapping around to back on topic. (tubes will not be part of this test). heh being a product mgr for 10yrs with an industrial electronics mfr gives me a huge leg up on running a product from conception thru final customer install/debug

Quote from: da_qtip on February 19, 2013, 06:43:46 PM
Would anyone be willing to help someone who has no idea what they're doing?

I want to put a tone bypass switch on my Big Muff clone and have no real idea of how to do it. I asked an engineer friend of mine and he gave me an extravagant explanation and made schematics. I just want to know what to attach to what. I'll be using a DPDT switch

This here is the pedal
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusg_sc.pdf
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusg_lo.pdf

If someone could tell what to connect where as if you were explaining to a 5 year old (ex. connect left side of R2 to this DPDT connector) or draw a simple diagram over the layout page it would be very much appreciated.

Here's a diagram of what your cutting out.

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8103818436_315d0bf740.jpg)

I can draw a proper diagram later with the GGG layout if you need.

im building too many damn things for the minds of mere mortals to even comprehend

Quote from: jibberish on February 20, 2013, 05:25:27 AM
statics and dynamics are fascinating. I used to meditate on the structure of railroad bridges and what stresses are really on what elements. ps, I could destroy your bridge by shifting the two main arches parallel to each other. where is the triangular element that prevents that motion?   until those main beam ends get mounted on footers that bridge can break easily 

1: just a model
2: Triangulation occurs via the varied angle of cross bracing, it has effectively become a truss, as at any angle, there are cross members acting in direct compression somewhere in the span. You can't move the arches, trust me. I tried. Plus large footings are in the design, I just don't need to model that part, that's what drawings are for.

It actually has some pretty elegant structural efficiencies, in that lateral forces are greatest at the ends of the arches, where they are farthest apart in the X direction, and vertical stress is greatest at the center, where they are farthest apart in the y direction. Effectively they act as one solid member, with ridiculous MoI at those critical points since 95% of the mass of the structure is located far from the neutral axis.

Yeah.

that's interesting how all parallel trusses make the triangle when helixed. the bow in the main beam is golden for sure.
very nice. you play with fun toys too.

School me mister structural engineer.


The functional state of these bridges in the real world indicates I am on to something.
(http://farm1.staticflickr.com/48/126963790_a95d6bd9a8_z.jpg?zz=1)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S0tziI13-yQ/TdgHQvSQ1VI/AAAAAAAADy4/-Nvgk1-ui-k/s1600/1267627508-100113-qtb-sitevisit-040-1000x666.jpg)

No, you're right. I apologize. My structures professor with 4 decades of experience is full of shit.

BETTER TRIANGULATE!  :D

(http://gatewaycityclassic.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/StLouisArch.67154836_std.jpg)

Quote from: moose23 on February 20, 2013, 06:05:42 AM

Quote from: da_qtip on February 19, 2013, 06:43:46 PM
Would anyone be willing to help someone who has no idea what they're doing?

I want to put a tone bypass switch on my Big Muff clone and have no real idea of how to do it. I asked an engineer friend of mine and he gave me an extravagant explanation and made schematics. I just want to know what to attach to what. I'll be using a DPDT switch

This here is the pedal
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusg_sc.pdf
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_rusg_lo.pdf

If someone could tell what to connect where as if you were explaining to a 5 year old (ex. connect left side of R2 to this DPDT connector) or draw a simple diagram over the layout page it would be very much appreciated.

Here's a diagram of what your cutting out.

...

I can draw a proper diagram later with the GGG layout if you need.

If you could draw one with the GGG layout it would be fantastic, but I'll do my best with that schematic. Thanks!

Building a pine Telemaster.
(http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8387/img1333sk.jpg)

I have this aversion to pine - from raking pine straw all the time when I was a kid.  Wouldn't it be too soft a wood?

Original teles are pine. Telemaster is sexy.

Yes. Crazysexycool.

Ditto- also mutant's bridge model = badass.

Oh, and the one DIY thing I think I have going now is some beer brewing.  Made up a batch with a buddy a few weeks ago- we bottle tonight.  I'll probably write back in a stupor later

Oooo homemade beer? I see a lot of that happening recently, what's up with that?

Dudes with way more time on their hands than me.  Shit, home brewing is still illegal here (I think).

Let's do it, Deaner Brew, comes already roofie'd  ;D ;D

Yeah- seems to be a huge craft brewing thing going on the last few years.  Tons of small breweries popping up everywhere in the PNW.  I'm actually working on a business plan to open a bottle shop- my buddy wants to get into brewing so I helped him out, though I probably won't go too far into that part of it myself.  Too much fucking work, though I do love the results.

hey mutant, who are you talking to. who said your stuff is full of shit? just making observations on stuff that is interesting

I just was thinking parallel equal length struts would shift if the ends weren't nailed down. like your 1st pic in the second set. zero to stop parallel main strut slide except the end anchors.

are the cross struts on your bridge all equal length or a gradiation of lengths? heh, I see the different length struts like in your later pic where there is no way that can shift, but im having a hard time seeing how equal lengths would all be at the same angle normal to the force that should fold them all over with the same motion.

ok, is the thing that stops the motion  that when the two asymmetric main beams shift, all parts of the main beams do not move parallel with each other? or what?

actually bridge 1 is a bad design. that could fall over sideways. if the ends shifted, it would fold. it has structural integrity in the downward direction only. do you see what i'm talking about?

btw, idk what that lined out text is, some copy-typo w/e

this shit is gonna be pic heavy, but i hope peeps enjoy

i've been learning blacksmithing, at the same time i have been doing pre-production and prop making for a short film

so i decided to combine the two and make a prop, a sacrifical dagger

here goes

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8497447857_30319270a6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497447857/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8498550724_38ff0f7c5e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498550724/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8497593805_cbf7a915db.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497593805/)

after a helluva lot of hammering and grinding

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8498547758_be74579117.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498547758/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8498545966_8de6574118.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498545966/)

handle wrapped, with brass accent

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8498545064_e5c28befbf.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498545064/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8498544806_8af914063b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498544806/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8498544002_c295ca3770.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498544002/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8497440111_24e5091607.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497440111/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8497438613_69ed2224f8.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497438613/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8230/8498539886_69ecf883e8.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498539886/)

leather stretched and shaped using a form made from a scrap piece of shaped corian (work with it everyday in my job)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8498538024_acb8fd3e90.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498538024/)

some dye

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8498537586_6ded4cc6e1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498537586/)

first brass accent piece braised and rough-ground

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8243/8497432299_5f20e3ac1c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497432299/)

thats where im at right now

 :o DIY blacksmithing = /thread

^that knife crafting is neat too.

I was going to post and ask mutant to start up the thread of DIY in general discussion about his cool little bridge. I will stop with the off-music-topic conversations here.

Quote from: I,Galactus on February 22, 2013, 02:19:56 PM
:o DIY blacksmithing = /thread

ahhh naw man. its really just feeble attempts at this point. I have yet to even approach a real knowledge of it. its mostly an exercise in drinking some beers and playing around. the thing I like about the blacksmithing is that it excites the same creative part of my brain as playing music, with the rhythm and thinking on your feet, rolling with the punches and paying attention to what's going on around you.

Quote from: jibberish on February 22, 2013, 02:10:44 PM
hey mutant, who are you talking to. who said your stuff is full of shit? just making observations on stuff that is interesting

I just was thinking parallel equal length struts would shift if the ends weren't nailed down. like your 1st pic in the second set. zero to stop parallel main strut slide except the end anchors.

are the cross struts on your bridge all equal length or a gradiation of lengths? heh, I see the different length struts like in your later pic where there is no way that can shift, but im having a hard time seeing how equal lengths would all be at the same angle normal to the force that should fold them all over with the same motion.

ok, is the thing that stops the motion  that when the two asymmetric main beams shift, all parts of the main beams do not move parallel with each other? or what?

actually bridge 1 is a bad design. that could fall over sideways. if the ends shifted, it would fold. it has structural integrity in the downward direction only. do you see what i'm talking about?

btw, idk what that lined out text is, some copy-typo w/e

The whole crossed out text thing is where you calling me full of shit vibe came from. I'll go with it being a typo...

The ends don't shift. They're designed to be embedded in solid basalt with enormous concrete footings that I have drawn up. I just didn't care to model the rod going beyond ground level and embedding in a cliff. Lateral forces are not particularly strong on 2 48" pipes hanging out in the wind anyway. It's a pair of footbridges, so vertical loads are the main concern, but not even that large.

Maybe you're not seeing something right which, if that's the case, is good for me because I was going after a form that might not make sense from every angle. The bridges are essentially identical except in scale, but it's only clear how the arches cross from the longitudinal view, as if you were a pedestrian approaching it.

Also, don't drag this to gen disc.

@3:00 min...

wow, Y'all niggas are good.

Jake, DIY relic tutorial plz

Quote from: James1214 on February 22, 2013, 02:11:00 PM
this shit is gonna be pic heavy, but i hope peeps enjoy

i've been learning blacksmithing, at the same time i have been doing pre-production and prop making for a short film

so i decided to combine the two and make a prop, a sacrifical dagger

here goes

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8497447857_30319270a6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497447857/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8498550724_38ff0f7c5e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498550724/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8497593805_cbf7a915db.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497593805/)

after a helluva lot of hammering and grinding

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8498547758_be74579117.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498547758/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8498545966_8de6574118.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498545966/)

handle wrapped, with brass accent

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8498545064_e5c28befbf.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498545064/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8498544806_8af914063b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498544806/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8498544002_c295ca3770.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498544002/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8497440111_24e5091607.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497440111/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8497438613_69ed2224f8.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497438613/)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8230/8498539886_69ecf883e8.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498539886/)

leather stretched and shaped using a form made from a scrap piece of shaped corian (work with it everyday in my job)

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8498538024_acb8fd3e90.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498538024/)

some dye

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8498537586_6ded4cc6e1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8498537586/)

first brass accent piece braised and rough-ground

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8243/8497432299_5f20e3ac1c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8497432299/)

thats where im at right now

Very cool, keep posting your work I like it.  You ever get over to bladeforums.com?  they would really dig that over there.

Quote from: The Bandit on February 22, 2013, 10:02:14 AM
I have this aversion to pine - from raking pine straw all the time when I was a kid.  Wouldn't it be too soft a wood?

It IS very soft, you can dent it just with a hard look, but this is made from a cheap (free) construction grade 2x8". This is only my second guitar build so I don't want to screw up good lumber :) If it turns out to be a usable guitar I'm happy. If not, I have lots more pine to practice on.

thanks spook, I'll check that place out.

here's another project I'm working on. its a bow. just got a package of artificial sinew to make the string. it is just under 6 feet long, made of red oak. I have 2 remaining steps before she shoots, and yes... I will also be making arrows and forging bronze heads for them.

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8506528502_6587f8b651.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8506528502/)

That Kramer neck is sat on my radiator warming up before I jam it in my check freezer and try and thermally shock the wood and fingerboard off it.

Good luck, its contact cement!

Housemate turned off heating, killed that plan.

Just chip it off, Oli. It comes off easy, it's hard as fuck, so it's brittle. Heat gun it?

Gotta get the wood inserts out too, hoping a good ping will have them out complete to use as patterns. Want to avoid risking gouing the metalwork too, ali is pretty soft.

Quote from: Mr. Foxen on February 26, 2013, 09:56:59 PM
Gotta get the wood inserts out too, hoping a good ping will have them out complete to use as patterns. Want to avoid risking gouing the metalwork too, ali is pretty soft.

Heat gun will do that too, How much filler is around those wood inserts? Mine has an atrocious amount.

more brazing, needs a little cleanup and a lot of fitting so the hilt matches perfectly..... bug its one step closer to completion

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8520401856_90ba242656.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8520401856/)

Quote from: James1214 on March 01, 2013, 09:13:11 PM
more brazing, needs a little cleanup and a lot of fitting so the hilt matches perfectly..... bug its one step closer to completion

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8520401856_90ba242656.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58335033@N05/8520401856/)

You got some great skills man! did you pick that up on your own to apprentice with some one?

I was taught most of my metalworking and fabricating skills from my uncle, who was a mechanic and built a  Formula Mazda car when I was 10. He taught me how to use a mill and a lathe and MIG and TIG by the time I was 15. My woodworking skills come from being the son of a cabinetmaker and having access to a good shop my entire life. I have taught myself soldering and brazing as well as leatherwork, the blacksmithing is mostly trial and error and fooling around with guiding by a talented blacksmith friend of mine to ensure I don't fuck myself, or the equipment up.

Quote from: James1214 on March 04, 2013, 07:38:09 PM
I was taught most of my metalworking and fabricating skills from my uncle, who was a mechanic and built a  Formula Mazda car when I was 10. He taught me how to use a mill and a lathe and MIG and TIG by the time I was 15. My woodworking skills come from being the son of a cabinetmaker and having access to a good shop my entire life. I have taught myself soldering and brazing as well as leatherwork, the blacksmithing is mostly trial and error and fooling around with guiding by a talented blacksmith friend of mine to ensure I don't fuck myself, or the equipment up.

You have mad skills that is for sure.  I'm teaching myself leather work and it is really fun.  I need to try my had and forging something someday.  I have done some metal casting back in college though. Keep us posted  on your next project.

well it's been 2 days since i went on a 4 day meth & oxycontin binge and now i'm really clogged up

my DIY project is to get things moving again

plz halp

First things first... you've got to get all those spiders off of your skin. Especially the ones just under the surface. Those are the ones laying all the eggs.

Quote from: mawso on March 05, 2013, 10:17:51 PM
well it's been 2 days since i went on a 4 day meth & oxycontin binge and now i'm really clogged up

my DIY project is to get things moving again

plz halp

Slither, is it you?

thanks guys, but i'm so blocked up atm that i think i'm going to have to dig it out manually

can either of you lend me a pencil?

i promise i'll give it back

Drink lots of water :-\

I got bored and made some cable organizers because I've lost about 600 of those velcro ones.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG0868_zps74910a0a.jpg)

550 Paracord, some thin galvanized wire (I would use bigger, but this is what was on hand,) nippers, needlenose, scissors.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG0869_zpseaaf76c7.jpg)

Gut the paracord

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG0870_zpsd0800f14.jpg)

Hook the ends so they don't jab through the casing, shitty pic, sorry.

Slide the wire in, knot both ends..

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG0871_zps4a434027.jpg)

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG0872_zpsbc7c0cd6.jpg)

Bamm??? about .06$ worth of materials (if you're any type of man, you already have this shit on hand,) and you can have decently organized cables!

Here's what I was working on last weekend. Went to the Dollar Tree, Joanne's Fabrics and the Hobby Lobby, used coupons and picked up a ton of crap for cheap to do arts and crafts projects. First project is recovering a hardcover book to look like an old leather book. Kind of a static prop, it's just got some random novel inside that I bought for $1. More just teaching myself all the techniques involved. I'd like to eventually do a full hand bound book from scratch, for a sketchbook or something maybe. There's lots of stuff out there where people do Lovecraft style ancient tomes, alchemy books, Harry Potter props, etc. that I thought looked really cool.

Started with this on Saturday evening:

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Crafts/Tome%201/01_zps131e0bd2.jpg)


Ended up with this on Monday morning, when I did the last quick dry brush:

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Crafts/Tome%201/18_zps81870bac.jpg)


Didn't all come out perfect, like how you can still see the edge of the quarter binding through the front cover, but I don't care. It was fun and I learned a bunch. Some of the things I would redo, I had a bit of a gut feeling about while I was working or I changed my method partway through, because I thought something might not work or be too hard. So it just helps me learn to trust my instincts and be more confident next time. I've never done any crafty stuff for fun at all. Just wood working and sign making for work, but a lot of the skills were familiar. I still want to do a gold leaf title on the front and some additional aging/distressing to it maybe. I need to work my way up to the bookbinding stuff, it's a lot more complicated. I'll probably do some small, easy project first and at least one more of these recover type projects before I try to put it all together.

Weren't some of you guys doing acid etched pedals? I'm trying to talk Kevin at EGC into etching my next project.  I'm assuming it's possible to etch aluminum since Trussart does it (I'm pretty sure his bodies are aluminum as well).  My next guitar is going to have a lot of surface area (double neck) so I'm trying to think of ways to put something interesting on it. 

Quote from: clockwork green on April 02, 2013, 02:30:12 PM
Weren't some of you guys doing acid etched pedals? I'm trying to talk Kevin at EGC into etching my next project.  I'm assuming it's possible to etch aluminum since Trussart does it (I'm pretty sure his bodies are aluminum as well).  My next guitar is going to have a lot of surface area (double neck) so I'm trying to think of ways to put something interesting on it. 

Double neck etched up EGC?  Sounds killer.  What necks?  Bass/guit?  6/12?

Built this drum riser/stage for our jam room:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/6110_495830607149959_256305135_n.jpg)

Quote from: clockwork green on April 02, 2013, 02:30:12 PM
Weren't some of you guys doing acid etched pedals? I'm trying to talk Kevin at EGC into etching my next project.  I'm assuming it's possible to etch aluminum since Trussart does it (I'm pretty sure his bodies are aluminum as well).  My next guitar is going to have a lot of surface area (double neck) so I'm trying to think of ways to put something interesting on it. 

SunnJake did some experimenting with it.

Quote from: I,Galactus on April 02, 2013, 02:32:37 PM

Quote from: clockwork green on April 02, 2013, 02:30:12 PM
Weren't some of you guys doing acid etched pedals? I'm trying to talk Kevin at EGC into etching my next project.  I'm assuming it's possible to etch aluminum since Trussart does it (I'm pretty sure his bodies are aluminum as well).  My next guitar is going to have a lot of surface area (double neck) so I'm trying to think of ways to put something interesting on it. 

Double neck etched up EGC?  Sounds killer.  What necks?  Bass/guit?  6/12?

6/baritone 12. I'm not sure if he can/will do it. He's building the guitar now but I just got the etched idea this morning.

Etching is pretty easy, it's the prep work that takes the time. I doubt he'll do it, there's no real way to ensure it will come out perfect, either.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/5yvema6u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/satumeze.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/y7epanaz.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/be2yru6e.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/zu8ymete.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/4umy5yha.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/vy7uze2u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/4a4y5u3u.jpg)

Do enough of these, and you get good at it... The dude who originally scalloped it really fucked it up. I did my best to fix it.

Quote from: SunnO))) on April 02, 2013, 04:22:51 PM
Etching is pretty easy, it's the prep work that takes the time. I doubt he'll do it, there's no real way to ensure it will come out perfect, either.

He won't acid etch but he's got a laser etching guy. I'm going to take a few days and think about it.

Finished my Telemaster.

(http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/2017/img1407sv.jpg)

The pickups are a Fender Texas Special and an old DiMarzio PAF, the neck is from Mighty Mite. Sounds great, VERY light weight and good balance. I used a wire brush on the body and treated it with iron acetate to get it grey/brown before i waxed it.

Very fun build, and I already have two new ones in the works. One spruce and one ash.

(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9682/img1423sr.jpg)

that is sick^ wow
inb4 lippy

what exactly goes into that. grab pieces part from w/e online place? get a ?warmouth? neck
I should have bought this rebult tele at Bruno bothers like 2 yrs ago. he showed me the ?warmouth neck on it. said that is basically stock..anyway that's why I mention that name or it was something close? why mighty mite? you then make the body. that rough hewn texture is most excellent. how does it sound as compared to a regular tele?



IngwO)))))))))


ok, i'm taking a poll before taking a chance on a power supply jury rig on my old failed hard disk recorder.
back history: the power supply got weaker and weaker over a few months, then barely blipped the light then nothing.
this power supply is old school integrated on the board, I have searched in vain for schematics which would have lent a solid clue as to what to deal with.  All I have as a thought, is that the harddisk needs standard harddisk power like any other old3.5" hard disk needed.
old 3.5's were for laptops and have like 3.3 and +/- 5v or w/e, easily looked up.

here is the question: what do you think will happen when I wire an external PC power supply to the hard drive power taps.

a)it works and I can use it as a mixer, effects unit and an SPD/IF digital converter again, don't need to record with it.
b) something outside the main circuitry on the power supply side isn't getting the "high" sign and the thing sits with its HD spinning but nobody home
c) I scare people in that Russian town again when they see another incoming fireball

I don't NEED to have this running, so i'm kind of turning the corner with it right here and right now heh. it either works or I shitcan it. so let's play a game with it 8D

You can get the parts from Warmoth, Allparts, StewMac and others. I got most of the hardware from GFS, the Wilkinson bridges and tuners are good quality and nicely priced. Most Fender-style parts are interchangeable, so there's little chance of going wrong. I used the Mighty Mite neck just because I got it at a fair price locally. I got the routing templates from Ebay, but you can make templates yourself if you are able to print out the drawings full size.

The pine body is very resonant and lightweight, and I can get all the Tele-twang I'll ever need. But it really shines in the middle position, the pickups are perfectly balanced in output (lucky!) so there's the low end from the PAF and twang/sizzle from the singlecoil. Not exactly P90-land but not too far away either, it works great with a ton of fuzz  :)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/10/e2yba5as.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/10/u4e6e9et.jpg)

Fucking dot. Cherry replacement.

I've had a really bad DIY run - four of the last five effects I've attempted have failed miserably. I did get a Gretsch Controfuzz clone done recently, but have otherwise just had a spate of bad luck. I'll have to fire up a an audio probe and see what I've done, but I feel like I need to confess my awful sins in this thread to purge demons.

I had a storage/display problem with 6 guitars.
i accumulated those little stand-alone tripod stands, both single and double as I gained guitars.  those things are nasty looking and in the way and trap tons of dust and crap. ez2 knock over etc etc = suck for long-term storage, awesome for quick place to set a guitar tho.

now I have 9 guitars. something has to be done. so I spent today in the unreal awesome weather sawing and drilling outside to save a huge mess inside and basically have a compact stand for 9 guitars , on wheels, all in parts. it is 4' long, 13-ish" wide, the thing that holds the necks is 24" off the floor of it. made sure it holds the agile fender style bass. that thing is huge.
The stand rides on a 5" high furniture dolly, or stands alone.  cost goal = $0. scrap 2x2's and plywood, and other odds and ends laying around.

I have 7 hours into it and I am stopping at the point where I am figuring out with what to cover the padded and contoured floor for the guitars to set on.   still have to figure the perfect setup for cradling and securing the necks, but it isn't a high stress thing as the guitars all sit on the floor and stand up near vertical. I have some nice ideas I want to try , see if they fly.

I will edit in some kind of visual evidence at some point...

edit: progress. fri.  the assembly of the whole frame went very well.  this AM I have been working on the contoured/padded floor. little wood blocks, 2 layers of buick park ave insulation and some random piece ofblack cloth to hide the mess with.
I am dorking around with a piece of plastic corner molding to hide the edge of the cloth. I am going to count the number of wood screws I used in this week's tinker-toy project. it is a lot. this thing is stout.  

I have no clue what I am doing, but that is half the fun. shows you what you are made of heh. whole thing made with a sabre saw and a drill to make the parts out on the deck yesterday. now it rained here, so timing was perfect. I made hay, glad I did.

well 17 hours into the project and it is functional. I totally overbuilt it heh. but no problem there. it is compact and rolls nicely. 137 screws and all that is left are the individual neck locks. I still haven't thought of anything I like yet.

you get a sneak peak at my black light jimi poster, but no music room video until I finish the lights.

guitars:

2 Ibanez rg-220
little schecter wtf, schecter Damien
agile fender bass
LP studio, cortez 59 black beauty
ultra swede and that blacktop tele.

just turn the sound down, no soundtrack...

It all started here.
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/Cgosms_2013-04-1810-55-07_zps802229da.jpg)

I found this...

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/Cgosms_2013-04-1811-11-37_zps635d4b8e.jpg)

Had these drums I didn't like too much...

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1027_zps75313718.jpg)

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1029_zpsd580f70e.jpg%5B/img%3Cbr%20/%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1030_zps6cd5bbb2.jpg)

Pain in the nuts. Finished one, and wasn't totally happy with the vinyl anymore.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1034_zps03edbda5.jpg)

So I grabbed the acetone, and wiped it down to remove some of that paint...
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1042_zps22440ebd.jpg)

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1043_zpse5d7076c.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1044_zps77c119b9.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1045_zps9dad26ea.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1049_zps54d709d0.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1050_zps74528be3.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1054_zpsb4434ec5.jpg)

Also finished the strat neck:
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1025_zpsfcc15a9d.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/IMAG1026_zps6d8f6dc1.jpg)

Brilliant!

If anyone has any 12 inch/14 inch cast hoops laying around... they would take this kit next level.

fuck those drums...LOOK AT ALL THAT WOOD and construction stuff in the back there.

lol, that's my shop, fool.

heh.  ya I like shops that actually have stuff to play with.  these limp wristed clowns in magazine pictures with an immaculate workshop aren't real. gimme 10 pounds of assorted wood screws and I could build some shit out of all that.

edit: btw, wood isn't cheap.  I rarely throw wood away. even little pieces make good screw blocks and shims etc.

Does anyone have a 20" hoop for sale/trade? (two, ideally)...We've converted a 20" kick into a floor tub but the wooden hoop is a knuckle-cleaner  ;D

Sinking Feeling

cheer up, help me concoct something to hang on the wall to hang cords and headphones. the more gothic the merrier..or something like that heh.

a nasty old half corroded Frankenstein movie rake would work heh.  long finger bones....ok run with it....could do a header board with something as pegs like std coatrack deal...but let's think creative before I ho num out and just do plan b : the pedestrian coat rack peg-in-a-header solution.


10' and shorter cords hang nicely.  I have a  tie rack hanger thing that would work, but it looks like "design by walmart" so..

no.

well, I made 3 hangars. one each for cords, mic cables and headphones.   that happened because I found 3 little plaques I picked from the garbage, and decided to use those along with my piece of dead ash log. so I cut the original piece of ash in half, then went and cut off another one for the 3rd headphone hangar. I put some little branches below the headphone rack for when I am lazy and can just sling the cord mess there. rainy day=finish indoor projects

crappy 1 min video showing thenm on the wall and loaded up with the stuff.

I see a stainless steel bass drum shell with no heads or hoops. I feel a little Lippy coming on.

I started making a pine P-bass body last week. Just wanted a project to work on that could potentially be finished (lots of cancelled band practices lately) and I've been wanting to try building an instrument for a long time. We had a big 16 foot length of 2" thick rough pine left over from a job at work, wide enough to make a one piece body. So just downloaded some plans, made a template and started doing it. It's been a learning process, lots of figuring out how to fix things I should have done better on a previous step. I'm a little rusty with a router too, it's been years since I worked in a wood shop full time. I'm waiting for more parts so I can continue, but it's coming out pretty nice so far I think.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-23722-1366936425197_zps279bf495.jpg)

I won't flood this thread with a ton of pics, but if you want to see some of the build progress you can check out the thread I started on Talkbass.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/first-build-pine-precision-body-979341/ (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/first-build-pine-precision-body-979341/)

Please, flood, if you will!

Quote from: SunnO))) on April 29, 2013, 01:06:16 PM
Please, flood, if you will!

Well, if you insist...


I printed out the full scale body plan pdf in four pieces. Cut them along the center lines, taped the quarters together and cut out the shape with a razor. Then traced it onto a piece of 1/4" MDF, rough cut on the band saw and shaped it down to the line on the belt sander. I had to get the inside of the cutaways with a dowel wrapped in sand paper and some hand sanding.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-11686-1366404082647_zps46479ae3.jpg)


The first piece of pine I cut and ran through the planer had a crack right down the middle. So I tossed that one aside, looked over my lumber for a good section, then cut it pretty long (maybe twice as long as I needed) and ran it through the thickness planer down to 1-3/4". I marked out the imperfections and found a section that was appropriate for the body.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-23595-1366745896176_zps575b7036.jpg)


Then I traced my MDF template onto the pine with a felt marker and rough cut to the outside of that line on the band saw. That left me about 1/8" left to router off later. The less material to remove, the easier the routing would go. The marker line is on the back side, so it's not showing in the pic.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-23706-1366745976019_zpsc1524ff2.jpg)


Then I got my template set up for routing. I found a strip of 1/2" MDF and cut it into blocks. Then I used double sided tape and attached them to the bottom of my template, with tape on the bottom of the blocks to attach it to my work bench. Since I was using a flush cut bit with a bottom bearing, the template needed to be on the bottom of the wood. I wanted their to be enough clearance so I wouldn't have to worry about the bit bumping against my work bench or anything.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-8614-1366847078096_zpsfee6ea1f.jpg)


I put some more double sided tape on the top of the template, laid the pine body on my bench and dropped the template down onto it, so I could line it up inside the marker line I had left. Then I stuck the whole thing down to the bench. I was really careful to wipe down every surface with a paper towel first, so everything would stick well. This tape works really well, so if anything I had to make sure to not use too much. Otherwise it could be difficult to pull the material up without snapping the template or ripping up the pine. Luckily I didn't have any problems with that.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-8050-1366847127608_zps9bd679fb.jpg)


Once I had everything in place I set up a 2" flush cut bit in a hand held router and got to making some sawdust. The amount of wood I had to remove was thin enough that I could do it in one pass. I ended up doing a few passes anyway though, because I was a little rough around the curves and still getting the hang of pivoting the router around the horns, to keep it balanced. A few passes and I had it nice and clean. However, it did reveal that my template had some bumps and ripples in it. So I ended up sanding it down with a dowel and by hand, until I got it nice and smooth all the way around. The 1-3/4" pine acted as a backer and allowed me to refine the template in place, then do another pass to clean it up. At that point I was only taking off thousands of an inch, it was more like sanding than routing. It reminded me to trust my fingertips over my eyes though. My father tipped me off to this trick and I'm glad he did. Even though it would have been easier to get the template right first, it was much easier to feel the imperfections on a wide piece than on the 1/4" template. If I do this again I think I would use a 1/2" template to make that a bit easier.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-8616-1366847169499_zpse43649a1.jpg)


Next up was the roundover, with a 1/2" radius bit. I've read that the vintage correct radius is 7/16", but most people use 1/2" since it's a more common bit. It's what I had, so it's what I used. Before that though, I block sanded the faces of the body, then put it in a vice and got the edges. I worked it over pretty thoroughly until it was really smooth. At this point any imperfections in the sides or the face would probably just translate into the roundover and make more sanding work for me later. I took some of my dropoff material from the body and ripped it on the table saw, to make some blocks for around the horns. I saw this in a video recently and it seemed like a good idea. Adds some stabilization when going around the horns, so there's no danger of tipping the router and destroying the body at this stage. I fixed everything down to my work bench directly with double sided tape again. I started with the back side, so in case I fudged anything it wouldn't be obvious.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-10913-1366936410977_zpsb6649e4e.jpg)


I found the roundover to be a lot easier than routing the shape. The bit was smaller, the speed slower and I used a smaller router too, so it was much easier to balance. I was able to make a quick, smooth pass with no problems and very minimal burning. I actually found I really didn't have any problems balancing around the horns this time (probably due to the much lighter weight and well blanced router, more suited for this task), so I didn't use the blocks on the front face.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-10525-1366936435442_zpsa89ea767.jpg)


So that brings us up to the present. All that was about an hour or so after work each day for 4 or 5 days. I made the template on a Friday, then worked on the body the following Monday through Thursday until I couldn't do any more work. I bought a Mighty Mite maple board P-bass neck from the TB classifieds, that's supposed to arrive today or tomorrow and then I'm going to make a template for that and route it out. I haven't ordered any other parts yet, so I'll probably wait until I have the pickups and pickguard before I route out the pickup and control cavities. I've started to think a bit about finishing. The wood looks so nice I think I'm going to do a transparent finish, I'm thinking I might go for a kind of amber/vintage yellow finish and black pickguard. An oil finish might be easier though, not sure what I'm going to do yet. I don't have a ton of experience with the finishing part of things, so I'm doing some research on that as I go.

Shit, Corey, that's good lookin'.

Anyone got suggestions for tutorials? Anyone want to donate one of those fucking Gopro cameras to me so I can film shit from my head while I work? A flip? haha...

Mail carrier just dropped off the neck, ahead of schedule.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-11203-1367267753464_zps7045ce09.jpg)

Going to work on getting the neck pocket template made in a few hours, when I'm off work. Might even go ahead and route it, if I have the time.


Jake, what about a tutorial on changing a nut? Pre-slotted, presumably, because I'm guessing slotting a nut properly is a whole lot more involved.

The bane of my fucking existence is making nuts, because I'm too cheap to buy blanks, so I make my own out of corian (which for some reason is ridiculously awesome for making nuts. I stole a bunch from Lowes.)

Making the blank is pretty simple, cut one fat, sand it to fit the slot. Find you the proper radius (USA fenders have radius slots, which sucks because it's fucking hard to figure unless you have the gauges, or know off hand.) I use a series of files, and sandpaper for shaping. With corian, it is sort of difficult because the shit is legitimately fucking hard. Make sure you have something perfectly true to make the blank on. I use the cast iron on my jointer or table saw.

Measure out the distance you want the strings apart (I broke down and bought the stew mac nut slot ruler because I am a maroon, and sometimes my eyes bug out on the tape and I end up with fucked up slots.)

Once that's in place, score it with a scribe so you can have a decent spot for your exacto saw blade to follow.

The depth is the fun part, the standard way is to take a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges, lay the straight edge along the fretboard at the highest point on top of the frets. Take your feeler gauges and shove them under the SE so they fit just snug, not lifting the SE and not totally opposing movement. You take that measurement, and add a minuscule amount, (I use the tiniest gauge I have for this portion, it's super duper thin.)

Butt the gauge stack up to the nut mounted in the slot, cut until you hit the gauges. This will get you a fairly accurate depth, you can adjust with files afterward, once you string it up.

You must be careful to leave a solid break for the string, so you have to file your slots down toward the head stock at a slight angle so the strings don't break at the rear of the nut instead of the front. After all that shit, sand it smooveeee, add a little lubrication, and string up.

wow, holy fuck, at 1:30 in this video, this dude has the right fucking idea. This is an amazing trick that I am going to use from now on.

I've seen/heard of people doing that trick with a golf pencil, with one side sanded down flat.


I went ahead and routed out the neck pocket on my pine P-bass build last night. I couldn't manage to get a proper template made to match the exact radius of the neck heel, so I just did it the quick and dirty way and hoped the pickguard will cover the small gaps in the corners. I probably could have got it sorted out if I wanted to take a lot more time, but I didn't. Next time I try building a body with a Fender style neck I'll just spring for the StewMac Fender neck pocket template. If I ever make a scratch built neck I'll be able to get it to match perfect no problem, this method would be more ideal for that.

I made a center line on my neck heel and body, lined them up, clamped it down and traced the neck heel in pencil.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-15783-1367290193123_zps3684497e.jpg)


I lined up some pieces of 1/2" MDF to the inside of my pencil lines, stuck them down to the body with double sided tape and checked my neck fit again.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-3309-1367290229382_zps63c47fc0.jpg)


Then I brought the body over to the drill press and hogged out a bunch of material with a forstner bit, to make the routing go easier.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-7062-1367290216439_zpsf9157eb2.jpg)


I used a 1/2" flush cut bit with a top bearing, cleaned up the sides from where I drilled material out, then took about 1/8" of depth at a time. Once I reached the depth limit on the hand held router, I took the template off and just ran the bearing along what I had already routed. This was a mistake, I should have just switched to a longer bit instead, because I didn't have enough material along the short horn side to exit the pocket smoothly and I took a little dip out of one corner. Live and learn, I'll know better next time, but it's still usable. This probably would have been a good time to use the blocks around the horns again, but didn't occur to me at the time because I was rushing.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-1040-1367290245948_zpsb8eb5a3b.jpg)


You can see how my template method doesn't match up with the neck heel radius. Hopefully this gets covered by the pickguard (don't have it yet), but if not I may have to glue in a piece of drop off material and fix it up. The fact that it's a 20 fret neck with no fretboard hanging over the heel makes it a lot more obvious. Still, it fits snugly in the pocket.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-9345-1367290271508_zps580b69af.jpg)


It's starting to look like a bass...


(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/photobucket-22229-1367290259881_zps3c65a0f7.jpg)


I can't do much more with it until I get the rest of the parts in. I'm going to order them after I get paid on the first, so hopefully I should be back at it by the end of next week. I'm already planning out the next build and how I would do everything differently. Especially the order of certain steps. If I started over today I'd order all the parts first, make my templates differently, route the neck pocket first, then cut out the shape, then do the roundover. That would eliminate a lot of problems I've had along the way, I think. So far I'm just going willy nilly. No planning, working on whatever is on hand at the moment. Still, I decided to do it for the learning experience and it's been really productive for that.

Fuck. Yes. That rules.

Make me a J-Bass with a big ol' "mudbucker" pup, please. I'm thinking shoreline gold, big black pickguard, maple neck/board.

Quote from: Jake on April 30, 2013, 06:44:04 PM
Fuck. Yes. That rules.

Make me a J-Bass with a big ol' "mudbucker" pup, please. I'm thinking shoreline gold, big black pickguard, maple neck/board.

All custom orders on hold, pending confirmation that anything I build comes out as more than firewood  ;D

Im still pissed about the that pencil trick.

Those drums are amazing...

They do look cool. I wonder if the vinyl around the shell affects or compromises the tonality in any way.

Not really, no more than regular wraps or a sprayed finish. It may dampen them a little bit, but not much, by my ears.

Yes, those are really great. Reminds me of Waylon's Tele.

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 01, 2013, 04:34:01 PM
Not really, no more than regular wraps or a sprayed finish. It may dampen them a little bit, but not much, by my ears.

nice.

Def. looks tits.

It's really simple, honest. You just have to be really diligent about stretching the vinyl. I screwed a beam inside the shell so I could use both hands for an even stretch. It isnt even permanent, double sided tape for the initial hold, and the lugs/tension do the rest

That is a pretty sweet wrap. I don't think dampening vibration with drum shells really has that big of a negative effect, on volume at least. I think the general consensus is that thicker, stiffer shells give more volume, but less "high end". According to whom and for what reason, no idea. The internet says a lot of things about a lot of things. It looks cool though, you can always hit the heads harder  ;)

Got all the rest of the parts ordered for the pine p-bass. I also bought a Fender neck pocket routing template. Better late than never, right?

Life is an afterthought

has anyone ever ordered shit from musicians friend?? was it a good or bad experience??

I have ordered a bunch of shit from Musician's Friend. It's always been a good experience, except a couple of minor things which they corrected right away. And I don't even remember what the issues were, anymore (a spindle of blank CDs busted open inside the shipping box. They replaced the whole thing, even though only half the CDs were ruined). They actually do a good job, IMO. YMMV.

Musician's Friend, Guitar Center, Music 123 are all about the same online.  Ordered from em all, no problems.

I would fucking kill those drums.

On a daily basis.

Thicker shells don't lose any high end. They are typically higher pitched and louder than a thin-shelled drum of equal size. Tuning, heads, shell material, and the room make up almost all of what affects the natural eq of a drum.

The shape and material of the tip of your drumstick also makes a significant difference.

A couple more Telemasters on the way. One spruce and one ash, just about ready for finish now with a little more sanding.

(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6337/img1468sx.jpg)

The ash body will be stained black with open pores and I'll whitewash the other with thinned-down acrylic paint. I don't have room or equipment for shooting lacquer, so both will get oil finishes.

Reranch has nitro lacquer in rattle cans. It works pretty well. Sand and bondo the fuck out of it, though.

200grit is the prep size for a car shoot fwiw

Nah, my basement is full of fine wood dust and I don't trust the weather here enough to spray outside... Also the whitewash didn't work out, so I think I'm going to try a Wudtone finish.

Back on the horse. All the discussion in another thread regarding screen printing made me fire off a few patches.

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78055/patches.jpg)

Hadn't screened in a few years. Forgot how much I hate cleaning plastisol. Hope to finish a few more this week.

So, lemme get the full run?

Quote from: Slow on May 12, 2013, 09:51:55 PM
So, lemme get the full run?

Full run of patches? Just a handful of those for now, with plans for Noothgrush, Boris, and a Weird Al patch later this week. (Don't hate.)

*edit* - it occurs to me, too late, that since this is a DIY thread, maybe I can help someone. So here's the quick-and-dirty.

---
I started using plastisol because, as a trite metal dude, I favor white ink on black shirts, so water-based inks weren't cutting it.

I've cobbled together some nicer stuff over the years, but almost everything initially just came from Dick Blick - Ulano emulsion, Union Maxopake inks, frames, cleaners.

I have a lightbox w/ six 30 watt fluorescent bulbs and an auto-off timer that I was given by a friend when he upgraded, but I started out with with three under-the-counter-style lights, some tin foil to reflect those lights, and a pane of glass initially, and that worked fine from a DIY standpoint. Exposure times will vary based off of light, heat, distance, emulsion used, etc, so it's good to experiment and feel confident, otherwise you'll either never reclaim the screen or you'll wash out the emulsion too easily.

I've used any number of transparencies over the years and haven't had a problem. Anything from leftover overhead transparencies through specially-designed screen printing ones, and no problems on any of them. I've always used a laser printer to print out art. If you have problems getting transparencies to burn, though, use your printer's slowest setting, your printer's max ink option, or just darken the image. If you're an artistic sort or just like the aesthetics, you can use a grease pen/china marker to draw directly on to transparencies for a nice, solid dark line.

Coat the screen with your (sensitized) emulsion and let it dry in a dark place. If you don't have an emulsion coater you can slop on the emulsion and use a piece of foamcore or card board with a straight edge to coat - both sides. (You can slop on a fair amount and reclaim anything you don't use, so be liberal with it.) I have good experience holding the screen at about a 45 degree angle and, as I pull up my coater/foamcore from the bottom to the top of the screen (slowly,) moving the screen up to a 90 degree angle.  During drying my experience says that your area doesn't need to be pitch-black, just not in direct sunlight or with lights blazing for prolonged times (my basement, with normal basement windows, hasn't let me down during daylight hours. YMMV.) Burn the screen, noting times, as above. In starting up again I was reminded to keep the screen/transparency tight against the glass to ensure even coverage - a few bad washouts made me think I had a timing issue, but it was really kind of a weight issue. (I use some unused ceramic floor tiles, which fit inside of my screens, to keep it against the lightbox.)

Rinse it out with cold or slightly warm water with a bit of pressure behind it. Right now I use a garden hose w/ a multi-nozzle in my laundry tub, but again, I've used the 20-year-old spray nozzle attached to my kitchen sink with fine results in a pinch. Give it a spray, and when you start to see the faint outline, let it sit for two minutes or so to soak in (not much longer.) Come back and hit it until the image is cleaned out. If you're losing definition, you may need to burn longer. If it's too hard to wash out, you may either need a darker transparency or a shorter burn time.

Let the screen dry and tape up the edges so the ink doesn't spill out. Hold your screen up to the light to make sure there aren't any unwanted pinholes - you can either tape those off, use a screen filler, or just dab on some more emulsion and hit it with a light for a few minutes.

My actual workspace is a few pieces of mdf hinged from the bottom so I can fit a shirt over it, and then thumb-screw hinges along the top for holding the screen. The top part of the mdf has a center line drawn on for measuring. If you're doing shirts you'll want to be pretty anal about this, but for patches, you're going to cut them anyway, so hey. I still use Union Maxopake for ink, and I've personally never had to thin it, but that's me. I've used the same round-edged squeegee for textiles for about ten years - I have a few square squeegees, but they force way too much ink through for my taste. Again, be liberal with the ink - you can reclaim what you don't use. Put down your textile, use the squeegee to spread the ink lightly over the images. My personal way is then this - even pressure, slowly, from top to bottom. Re-place the squeegee, spread ink lightly again, even pressure, slowly, top to bottom. That's it. More than two can put too much ink out, either fuzzy'ing your image or getting ink on the bottom of the screen where it doesn't belong and fucking up whatever you screen next. (If you like a slightly lighter image, you can do one pass. But then, if you like a lighter image, you don't need to be using plastisol.)

I'll then use my trusty heat gun to cure. Pull the screen up (that's where the hinges come up big) and turn your heat gun to low. I keep the gun about 1" from the textile, hitting the heaviest areas first and then the thinner areas. Keep it moving, slowly - too fast and the plastisol won't cure. After about 2 minutes, if I'm using 100% cotton textiles, I'll turn the heat gun to high, and give it another 30 seconds or so. If I'm not, I'll do another 2 minutes or so on low. This is important, as 50-50 blend shirts will catch fire (or at least start to burn) with an 800 degree heat gun on it. Lessons learned. Then I'll remove the textile and either flip it over or inside-out and hit the back on low for a minute, just to ensure. I've never had anything wash out over 10 or so years, but my impatient girlfriend has. So. If this seems awfully time consuming, you're right - but a heat gun is a lot cheaper than a flash dryer, and we're talking DIY here.

If you note that your prints are getting fuzzy, try this - lay down a paper towel, or some construction paper or something, and make a print w/o spreading the ink first (if you can also use the least-ink'd side of your squeegee, even better.) That'll take care of any ink that may've clung to the side of the emulsion, keeping your image crisp.

The biggest issue with plastisol is clean-up - it won't air dry. Only work with it in a place nobody will yell at your for it being, 'cause it can hang around for a long time. Keep plenty of paper towels and disposable gloves handy. Once you're done with the screen reclaim the plastisol that you can. If you're keeping the screen, use a plastisol cleaner to spray down your image and and heavy areas, wash it out, and store it safely. If you're going to wash out the screen for another image, clean the plastisol first, and then use an emulsion cleaner plus hot water to knock out the emulsion. If you have an actual pressure washer, cool - now is a good time to break it out. If you don't, be patient - I keep both the plastisol and emulsion cleaner in spray bottles to spray, let sit, wash out. Repeat.

There aren't a ton of DIY plastiol write-ups around, so maybe that helps someone. Any actual screen printers are welcome to chime in and have a heart attack regarding my method.

I want that Grief patch... and the THUG LIFE patch... and the Earth patch... and Noothgrush


and boris...

Quote from: Slow on May 13, 2013, 02:11:27 PM
I want that Grief patch... and the THUG LIFE patch... and the Earth patch... and Noothgrush


and boris...

I have a few extras. Let me finish up the next batch and we'll talk.

 very cool. 

white letterz on black clothing is like the Sabbath s/t.  ruled from the start, always will rule.

Bookmatched mahogany top for a Thinline Tele:

(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3668/img1503sq.jpg)

You ever retopped a guitar? Make sure your top is perfectly true, and make sure the bottom of the mahogany is totally true. Use as little glue as possible while still having some push out, equally, all around. That glue joint is very important because when you go to route it, it will delaminate...

This will be my first guitar with a separate top. The mahogany is dead flat on the face side, the picture was taken right after I did a pass with my router sled. I need to do a pass on the "glue side" as well. I'll probably end up a hair under 1/4" thickness, which should be fine. The rest of the body will be made of birch, and I'll probably try making a neck this time too. I have some old, quartersawn mahogany planks that will be perfect for a couple of Tele necks.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/27/3ase8u8u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/27/u9aryta9.jpg)

Niiice!  For you or for a customer?

customer.

that was a very good diy plastisol printing post. all pretty much spot. good info for beginners, though much of the details have to be learned the hard way, I think.

discharge inks nowadays can give you good white coverage on black fabric, but it's not as forgiving as plastisol, esp. for short runs. It does print very nice and soft, so that's a consideration for shirts and other wearables. Not so much for patches.

(//)

My DIY project this whole last week has been installing new windows in our house. I should have the last one in tomorrow. I took the weekend off though and finished up a project for a buddy. He has an old unloaded Marshall 8x10 guitar cab and wanted to convert it to a 4x12. He asked me to make him a new angled baffle, so I took a stab at it. He's putting new grill cloth on it, installing it back into the cab and loading it up this week, so we'll see how it sounds. Here's the original baffle and the new one side by side.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/photobucket-480-1369623434782_zpsed4b8def.jpg)

Didn't have any time to work on the pine p-bass in the last couple weeks. Since the last time I posted about it though, I've got the cavities cleaned up to the proper depth, installed the neck and lined up the bridge placement. I just need to drill the holes for the bridge and carve the contours before I start finishing it.

What's the best place online to order guitar parts? Like pup rings, strap screws, etc.

Quote from: liquidsmoke on May 28, 2013, 12:43:15 AM
What's the best place online to order guitar parts? Like pup rings, strap screws, etc.

guitarfetish.

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 28, 2013, 12:46:13 AM

Quote from: liquidsmoke on May 28, 2013, 12:43:15 AM
What's the best place online to order guitar parts? Like pup rings, strap screws, etc.

guitarfetish.

Thank ya. Dig that BG logo by the way.

Finally getting around to finishing one of the Telemasters. This is after 4 coats of stain. The first coat of black stain had a blue/purple hue so I mixed some walnut stain into the following black coats. I'll put 4-5 coats of Tru-oil on top.
(http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/9228/img1507s.jpg)

Looks good, I like oil finishes, but I'm moving away from them on bodies...

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 28, 2013, 10:01:26 AM
Looks good, I like oil finishes, but I'm moving away from them on bodies...

Why come?

Quote from: I,Galactus on May 28, 2013, 10:06:50 AM

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 28, 2013, 10:01:26 AM
Looks good, I like oil finishes, but I'm moving away from them on bodies...

Why come?

Wanna start painting, I got my feet wet on a strat body and learned a fair portion of what NOT to do (not filling the grain, etc.) and it came out pretty damn-decent on a first try. Oil finishes are cool, but I'm pretty sure I'm in the phase where and oiled walnut tele would look funny on stage with me since I'm in a black metal band? gutted out single pickup pointy guitars for me.

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 28, 2013, 10:12:30 AM

Quote from: I,Galactus on May 28, 2013, 10:06:50 AM

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 28, 2013, 10:01:26 AM
Looks good, I like oil finishes, but I'm moving away from them on bodies...

Why come?

Wanna start painting, I got my feet wet on a strat body and learned a fair portion of what NOT to do (not filling the grain, etc.) and it came out pretty damn-decent on a first try. Oil finishes are cool, but I'm pretty sure I'm in the phase where and oiled walnut tele would look funny on stage with me since I'm in a black metal band? gutted out single pickup pointy guitars for me.

Rubs hands together with glee.  Will be sending you that Yamaha shortly...   ;)

Ill keep that money, then. Haha.

Never mind.  :(

That black stained Telemaster body sho' is purty. Rrrreal purty. Keep the pics coming on those builds.

wish I had the patience to build a guitar, and nice shop equipment sure doesn't hurt.

sunno, if you are going to paint bodies in solid colors, try bondo-ing the body first. you absolutely positively cannot sand grain out of wood. the differences in hardness will always fuck you up, so you bury the grain in bondo. there is thick liquid finishing bondo.  my auto body pal and I completely rebuilt his front screen porch and we made all the sills faux car finish. they were really plywood heh. once you are bondo-ed, you use stock standard car finishing techniques which leaves all options and anything you see on a car , you can have on your guitar.   you should see the paint jobs he puts onto those plastic patio chairs heh, with spare paint. 

if you're using a couple coats of primer and sanding it, should take care of much of the grain coming through, no?

there is no need to use bondo, a polyester based filler is used on many guitars because it is a "quick and easy" way to attain a smooth finish, however sanding and then using a grain filler, then sanding again will allow for smooth as glass finishes. I use a clear grain filler for cabinetry all the time, this is for situations where it is necessary to see the wood grain ie stained surfaces/clear coat and bondo is an impossibility....

rambling

BTW this is what i use

(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/34644-01-200.jpg)

It's a synthetic shellac? I think paint grade is bondo worthy, I use it on my paint pieces.

ya , all that shit is the same thing: a hard-when-cured, resin-based deal that is harder than the wood. same game all across the boards heh. you probably could use grain filler on a car in a pinch too, in place of the liquid finishing bondo.

I am definitely going to talk to my pal about shooting guitar bodies tho. he is a crazy artisan in a way.  he masked and sprayed about 20 layers of stuff on a glass table top that is fucking sick. he can match paint by eye.   tell you what all the colors are in any paint job...crazy. great to be around to absorb his wisdom.

Bondo glazing putty is the best. No mixing. If i need to do a big area? I go full bondo.

After a long break, due to a bunch of remodeling work on my house, I finally got the contours done on my pine p-bass body. I had done a bunch of practices with an angle grinder (using a flap sander disc) and block sanding, but something went screwy with my angle grinder when I went to change the disc. So I ended up doing with a rasp, file and block sanding. I roughed out the shape with the rasp, making a bunch of facets and then flattening them out, then smoothed it down with file and finished up with the block sander going from 60-120 grit. Then I rounded off the edges to match the roundover on the body, with the file and some hand sanding. Just did that by eye until I thought it looked good. It was a lot more time and elbow grease to do it this way than what I practiced with the grinder, but still not that bad considering how soft the pine is.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/2013-06-03_13-08-26_699_zps27e1c819.jpg)

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/2013-06-03_13-20-51_264_zpsc1af9c33.jpg)

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/2013-06-03_13-24-20_473_zpsd551acd8.jpg)

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/2013-06-03_13-49-41_781_zps6c39ff09.jpg)

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/2013-06-03_15-37-07_190_zps10c64676.jpg)

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/Pine%20P-Bass/2013-06-03_15-46-23_140_zps0a2815e5.jpg)

Now I just need to finish sand it down to 220 and start the prepping for painting.

Quote from: khoomeizhi on June 02, 2013, 10:43:24 AM
if you're using a couple coats of primer and sanding it, should take care of much of the grain coming through, no?

I liked the look of this one so I decided to keep the pores open, if I was using lacquer I'd definitely have to fill the grain.

This body met the floor in an unfortunate way a couple days ago. I had to sand it down and steam out the dents (turned out fine, btw), but it's roughly back to the same condition as in the picture now.

i like how that looks, too. the grain comment was for the bondohounds.

coming along nicely..

the deal with a couple coats of primer is that the primer still follows the wood grain contour. you probably could put enough primer on to get a sandable layer that filled the contours, but the problem with prepping for a glass smooth finish IS the wood grain contours that will never sand even. pretend the filler is like 50 coats of primer in one shot.

also the wood makes a lot of difference in what fill depth is needed to bury the grain. some real tight maple can almost be sanded smooth so maybe that would get by on a couple of primer layers.   primer is not filler as intended. it is the base coat for the finish coat. it ensures proper adhesion, proper layout AND proper color glowthrough. believe it or not, primer color is important to the final top color.

Generally when you're priming wood, you get raised grain and you sand it down between coats. If you do that, you get a nice smooth painted finish in the end. Just like sanding between paint coats. You usually put a primer or a sanding sealer or something on pretty heavy to raise the grain, knock it down, then hit it again to get it smooth for your finish coat(s). I think coating the whole thing in bondo and sanding it down would be pretty extreme as a grain filler, but it works fine for dents and dings. Doesn't mean you couldn't do it, it would just be really work intensive. I just filled in some dents, dings and a few really wide open end grain spots on my pine p-bass body with bondo, before priming. I'm taking a break from priming right now and I laid down a couple dusting coats, waited a few minutes between, then laid down some heavy coats to soak in and raise the grain (not enough to drip or run though). I'm going to let it dry for a day while I'm out of town for work, then sand it and prime it some more before I start painting.

Timber Mate or some other kind of grain filler works fine for thinning out with water and painting on, then sanding off on woods that are harder but have a more open grain. You can dye it to match or accent your wood color or stain/finish too. Some people like to just lay down really thinned dewaxed shellac. There's a lot of different methods that work, I've always used bondo for paint grade wood projects/work without a problem. It's never been with the goal of preventing the grain from raising though. That happens, you want it to happen. You just sand it down and reapply whatever you're putting on the wood and it comes out even as a result. No reason to fret over raised grain really, unless it's late in the process and it's ruining something you already did.

(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/492/9x8h.jpg)

Slowly getting somewhere... 3rd coat of tru-oil is on, but some cotton lint is stuck in the oil. I have to sand a little bit when this coat dries.

Quote from: showdown on July 12, 2013, 02:27:14 AM
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/492/9x8h.jpg)

Slowly getting somewhere... 3rd coat of tru-oil is on, but some cotton lint is stuck in the oil. I have to sand a little bit when this coat dries.

Looks good!

yea it does.

More pics please, showdown. Live blog that shit!

8 thin coats now. I think that'll do it, I don't want to fill the grain too much.

So here's a little mockup:

(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/8339/d916.jpg)

I'll leave it to cure for a week or so before buffing it out.

deff purdy

Telemaster porn.

I picked up a Squier bronco, and am in the process of converting it into a Bass VI type of instrument, hardware arrives Monday, so in the interim timei have I filled the existing holes in the headstock and have been working on the paintjob for the past coupla days. I call it a Sparkleburst, a glittery silverburst..... im pretty happy with it especially given its from a rattlecan. All thats left on the body are a number of coats of clear and lots of wetsanding, Headstock has 5-6 coaats of of clear, maybe this is the last coat or two.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3713/9380157332_5077d86fbb.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/9377373401_8717766298.jpg)

Quote from: showdown on July 26, 2013, 08:51:02 AM
8 thin coats now. I think that'll do it, I don't want to fill the grain too much.

So here's a little mockup:

(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/8339/d916.jpg)

I'll leave it to cure for a week or so before buffing it out.

Dude.....seriously fucking awesome. I can't wait to see this finished so I can beg you to make me one!! haha

Quote from: James1214 on July 27, 2013, 03:51:07 PM
I picked up a Squier bronco, and am in the process of converting it into a Bass VI type of instrument, hardware arrives Monday, so in the interim timei have I filled the existing holes in the headstock and have been working on the paintjob for the past coupla days. I call it a Sparkleburst, a glittery silverburst..... im pretty happy with it especially given its from a rattlecan. All thats left on the body are a number of coats of clear and lots of wetsanding, Headstock has 5-6 coaats of of clear, maybe this is the last coat or two.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3713/9380157332_5077d86fbb.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/9377373401_8717766298.jpg)

That's really cool.  Are you going to change the scale length or just put some really thick strings on it with bass tuners?

bass VI is a 30" scale, which the bronco bass already is (sorry, i didnt clarify) it gets what are essentially thick as shit baritone strings, it uses regular guitar tuners.

That's a lot of tension for reg tuners... or at least - more than usual. Bass VIs don't have slightly more beefy tuners?

Quote from: James1214 on July 27, 2013, 03:51:07 PM
I picked up a Squier bronco, and am in the process of converting it into a Bass VI type of instrument, hardware arrives Monday, so in the interim timei have I filled the existing holes in the headstock and have been working on the paintjob for the past coupla days. I call it a Sparkleburst, a glittery silverburst..... im pretty happy with it especially given its from a rattlecan. All thats left on the body are a number of coats of clear and lots of wetsanding, Headstock has 5-6 coaats of of clear, maybe this is the last coat or two.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3713/9380157332_5077d86fbb.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/9377373401_8717766298.jpg)

I bought a Douglas les Paul bass and been getting ready to do the same thing converting it into a baritone/bass xi

 Lip, everything ive read and researched indicated the current reissues of the bass vi have standard fender locking guitar tuners installed. I'll also mostly be tuning mine C-c instead of E-e.... we'll see how it all goes. I'm actually more concerned about the bridge. I decided to go with a top loading hardtail strat bridge, mainly for max intonation possibilities. I will probably have to drill out the loading holes because of the increased string size.

So far, time included, is this more expensive than just buying the reissue bass VI? Just curious as to the amount of man hours involved!

I got the bronco for $60, I spent maybe $20 on paint, and $50 on the bridge. The pickup, tuning machines and other assorted electronics are coming from a donor MIM fender (has a cracked body and broken headstock) i was given, a wrecked as shit strat I was given like 10 years ago. Also as a tinkerer and someone who has done all my own setups for a decade i feel that modding is the next logical progression towards my goal of making a proper custom guitar (other than my cigar box guitars) from scratch. The education I'm receiving is worth the time invested.... so I'm totally happy with this as a project.

But fuck it, I don't gotta justify myself. After all Jake, you are like the King Tinkerer of the board.

Hey, man, you don't gotta justify nothing to me! I approach things with the same attitude, long as im learning, my time is covered.

Im on knife number five. :-D
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/yjuja7e9.jpg)

Took me an hour from first cut, to heat treatment. Just needs a handle, at this point. I may stone wash this one, as well as my wee baby salvage kitchen knife. From a destroyed (high quality) filet knife. Stainless works way differently than high carbon.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/vaze4u3e.jpg)

Can't wait to see the outcome on this bronco. I love it already...

I might make some soap, soon... :-)

I've been actually researching the bronco to bass xi conversion for a while, I was going to do a epiphanies ebo over instead, but got a killer deal on the Douglas lp bass which is 30 inch scale, and has basically guitar humbuckers in it already

Do it, Eddie. Its actually been pretty easy to do mostly researching the intricacies of the instrument i.e: the tuners. I'd say the most important thing i have learned is that the density of the dowel used to plug the holes really matters. I did the holes this morning, on my drill press, and one drifted around a 1/16", not the hugest deal ever, but a pain in the ass nonetheless.

Jake, i had an idea for using an old box-end wrench and forge into a knife, dig the idea of using old tools as a source for good blade steel. Dig the blades dude, good work. That drop-point mini machete is a beast and a half. Do you know Will Moon? He makes super rad custom knives (way way way out of my price range) but his Youtubes are super informative about techniques to make top-quality knives. I don't have the skill for that type of precision, yet. But it is inpiring.

That was a planer blade, Bieliebe it, or not. A beat to shit planer blade. Ive been torturing it around the yard, it is a wicked sharp beast. Smaller than a machete, but equally as heavy. It glides through everything.

I'm gonna check that dude out. I like seeing other people work. If I had the equipment some of these dudes have, i could make wicked knives. Using files slows me wayyyy down.

Quote from: James1214 on July 27, 2013, 10:10:13 PM
bass VI is a 30" scale, which the bronco bass already is (sorry, i didnt clarify) it gets what are essentially thick as shit baritone strings, it uses regular guitar tuners.

Man that is going to to be sweet! post a vid of it when you are done.

absolutely, this thing thru the pharaoh should be heavy shit.

This is it right now, waiting on a bridge (should be coming in the mail Wednesday). Need to fabricate a nut. Leaving the singlecoil it came with in it for the moment, just in case it doesn't sound like total shit.

Once I figure the pickup situation out I'll get a mirror pickguard made... which should make it nice and flashy

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3757/9397096491_469a464261.jpg)

Quote from: James1214 on July 30, 2013, 02:44:13 AM
This is it right now, waiting on a bridge (should be coming in the mail Wednesday). Need to fabricate a nut. Leaving the singlecoil it came with in it for the moment, just in case it doesn't sound like total shit.

Once I figure the pickup situation out I'll get a mirror pickguard made... which should make it nice and flashy

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3757/9397096491_469a464261.jpg)

I already love it, keep the pics coming!

Stripping and refinning a Washburn Froce 40 Matsumoku through neck. Turns out under the paint was a thin veneer over the through neck, thin enough I went through trying to sand out the gouges from previous hack job attempt at stripping. So went all the way in an attempt to make a feature of it:

(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1590_zps8dd5cb7a.jpg) (http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1590_zps8dd5cb7a.jpg.html)

Red mahogany stain ordered.

got a Tusq nut today, and the bridge and strings came in the mail yesterday. Got a helluva lot of intonatin and setup to do, but I dig it a lot so far......

video/demo/noise and other shit to come.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3757/9427002960_1927bc400f_c.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5518/9427019242_653629f647_c.jpg)

(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/9109/9hwm.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6521/m9r2.jpg)

Getting there, all that's left now is setup and electronics. I'm not too sure about the black knobs, but I have a few different types to choose from.

I built a still out of an old under bench hot water cylinder and started making rum. And it works!

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/9499127423_9df8fa5bd7_c.jpg)

(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8950/mk3g.jpg)

Larch thinline, I've got a nice bookmatched mahogany top to go with it.

I don't want to seem to forward, but will you move in with me?

Quote from: showdown on August 23, 2013, 04:09:37 AM


Larch thinline, I've got a nice bookmatched mahogany top to go with it.

Dig. Was talking to a friend about making a chambered Tele - that's highly inspiring.


Apropos of nothing I've made more patches. These are a different waste of time than semi-functional pedals and semi-functional riffs. Keeps me off the streets and only a little on drugs. Few for a friend, testing out half-tones, and then Kraftwerk and Doom Patrol, 'cause why not.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78055/patches_3.jpg)

Checked on hardware for some decision making:
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1650_zpsc6c54ec8.jpg) (http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1650_zpsc6c54ec8.jpg.html)

Quote from: Ayek on August 13, 2013, 05:47:50 AM
I built a still out of an old under bench hot water cylinder and started making rum. And it works!

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/9499127423_9df8fa5bd7_c.jpg)

:-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
amazing.

You guys do cool shit, and it makes me want to do cool shit. 

Whatchou gonna do?

Quote from: RacerX on August 27, 2013, 08:44:34 AM

That shit was fucking funny as heck!

Edit:  Wrong thread.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/28/2yta2u7a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/28/y8ehuha9.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/28/ru9u6y3y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/28/vu7usa3a.jpg)

I BUILT A THING

Fuckin aye, you did!

Wait. No handles or wheels? You some sort of sadist?

No shit. You gotta cut in some handles, dude.

Needed it sealed for faster break in. Handles come soon as I get back into town.

What speakers did you buy?  And did you use some software to calculate the ideal box dimensions or did you just wing it?

Eminence Governors. No reinventing the wheel, no reason to. It's basically a real pretty, really well build Orange 2x12. (considerably cheaper than one.)

Well done, Jake)))! Love the natty wood, like Emperor and Atlas cabs.

Myself, I can't stop hacking apart perfectly good Sunn combos. They're just so much more useful to me as heads. Here's a before and after of yesterday's mutilation.

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/file_zps412f03c2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/file_zps57cd9056.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/file_zps84d2acf2.jpg)

Thought you were selling it?!

Ill buy it as a head, one day, when you tire of it...

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/29/atu2e8ut.jpg)

There, handle lovers.

Quote from: Jake on August 28, 2013, 01:44:12 PM
Well done, Jake)))! Love the natty wood, like Emperor and Atlas cabs.

Myself, I can't stop hacking apart perfectly good Sunn combos. They're just so much more useful to me as heads. Here's a before and after of yesterday's mutilation.

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/file_zps412f03c2.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/file_zps57cd9056.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/file_zps84d2acf2.jpg)

IMMACULATE condition no more.  Ha!   I woulda done the same thing.

How have I missed thread for so long?!?


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

Jake! Stop the madness!!! Doesn't that reissue have an ext speaker jack? I still have that 2x12 that you gave me from that Solaris? combo and I weep a bit everytime I look at it. Leave those poor fellas alone! 

Never! I'm willing to be "that guy."

It's not like I put a Kahler on a '50s blackguard Tele or anything. In fact, I think that I made this a much more useable/flexible amplifier now. Dealing with an 80 pound 1x12 combo is for stronger, less deaf folks than myself.

I want to do the same thing with my Fender PRRI. I never ever use the built in 10", even though it's a nice Weber the original owner put in, I always use the speaker out to one of my cabs. I was thinking about just building a head cab for it though, instead of chopping up the existing one.

That being said, it is pretty fuckin cool. How does the reverb sound on the 50I

Sexy. And footswitchable.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/30/epe9ejur.jpg)

Totally happy customer. Ill probably be making several more of these now. I might actually make some money, fuck.

Quote from: Jake on August 29, 2013, 11:14:38 AM
In fact, I think that I made this a much more useable/flexible amplifier now.

Not the point!  I've been looking at almost-vintage stuff on eBay as an investment.  So many people have done irreversible stuff to their gear that makes the resale about 1/3.  Some people don't give a shit about resale though.  And maybe the amp isn't worth anything anyway.  I just hate to see a good investment turn to shit when they could have kept it original, sold it, and bought what they really wanted. 

If I were investing, it would not be via a Sunn T50C. And I'm not going to pretend to know or care how much those will be valued in, say, the year 2033.

Routed the f. No going back now  :)

(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9053/oeo6.jpg)

Dig it showdown... wicked.

I sprayed the color coat for my pine p-bass body today. 4 coats of black, hopefully doing the clear tomorrow.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/083113192846_zpsf3c6db4d.jpg)

Well I've got my workbench back!  it's been over year since I built anything and I've been on a Fuzz building kick.  Built a Fuzzrite and a homemade Bigmuff meets Bazzfuss that does the Neil Young exploding amp really well.  I'm really digging the Fuzzrite though that things is just the sound of 60's rock in a box.

I picked up a couple tripods and I'm going to start putting up some youtube demo vids real soon (not that my stuff is anything special but there are probably some tinkerers like me out there that dig that sort of thing.)

I'm thinking about putting bass pickup in one of my old strats like the dude from local H too

Quote from: showdown on August 31, 2013, 02:53:06 PM
Routed the ƒ.

ƒixed that ƒor you.  ;)

Glued mah top:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img24/8261/opta.jpg)

I'm starting to think black grain filler, cream binding and cream P90s...

We should be best friends.

Got a Demo up of the little Fuzz I built.  I'm calling it the "JihadRod Fuzz"

let me know what you think.

cheers

Binding, router bit and pore filler came today from StewMac, so I hope there's progress on my thinline msoon...

Getting ready to velcro or dual lock my pedal board.  I got everything mocked up and It's going to be great.



I stuck an old Dodge Dart Swinger emblem on it my friend gave me from his car.  I figured that with all the pedal swapping this looper does that "Swinger" is a nice fit.

Binding channel routed.

(http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/2281/dnvb.jpg)

I have a set of handwound P90s on the way, when I get them I'll route out the pickup cavities and neck pocket. I'm not sure about the correct order of things anymore, but I think I'll do the binding and grain filling after that ;D

Tryna etch. Went pretty well for a first attempt.

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78055/etch.png)

All my bits are too large, so it'll be a few days before I see if I can ruin it via drill. Baby steps.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/01/yny2etut.jpg)

Was rechecking the wiring on my LP Studio the other day.

Long story short the headstock has damn near broken off twice, and I'm finally trying to get it gig-ready after I had stripped it for parts thinking it was dead.

A year+ ago put in the late model Super Distortion which came in the neck position (!!) of my 79 Iceman. The Rio Grande BBQ which used to be in it and sounded amazing had brought my Paul Stanley Iceman back to life, so didn't want to remove it.

But playing the LP Studio in a rehearsal setting at stage volume, the SD just sounded weak, thin and very underpowered.

Checked the wiring but all seemed good (was thinking I had crossed wires hastily installing it and inadvertently coil tapped it, but not the case).

Retaped all the wires to better shield them away from each other (all the wires had extra leads installed as the SD was hooked up to a coil tap switch in the 79 Iceman), fired it up on my Lead 12.

A/B ing against the 79 Iceman there wasn't the noticeable difference I had noticed like I did in rehearsals. So hopefully retaping did the trick.

If it still sounds less than stellar next time I'm at stage volume, I'll swap the SD out for a DiMarzio Megadrive, which has been in the LP before and sounded good.

But what I need to do is get another Rio Grande BBQ, as it sounded amazing in the LP. Made it sound even more like a Les Paul, if that makes sense.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7228/uck5.jpg)

Getting closer. Slowly.

I got he body for my Flying V diddly bow roughed out.  Next step is to glue it up and finish sanding the edges

Thanks to James I got my Diddley Bow project up and running!

Not bad— kinda cute! You gotta damp the strain behind the slide, tho, Spuke. Otherwise, what's happening behind the slide is audible. Just use the trailing part of your hand.

Cool dude.

what if you took all the strings but one off of a beater crap guitar and rigged a nut and bridge to raise the string more off the fretboard. seems like I could make one of those with a $20 garage sale special and 15minutes of time.

OK, let's go one step further. WHAT IF we put a rigged pyramidal bridge and nut on a beater guitar and left 3 strings on with the center one being a bit higher than the outer 2.
THEN we get a violin bow and a slide. make a ghetto steel viola-tar.  can bow either 1 or 2 strings at a time. maybe tune one pair to a fifth and the other to a 4th or something idk...

edit: I guess you could make a trapezoidal profile for 4 strings low-hi-hi-low.  a bow could still hit any of the 3 pairs solidly without hitting the others.

I seriously considered doing what you're saying for a long while when I was in a post rock band. Make a rosewood arch bridge, and shim the neck on any not-so-wide guitar bridge for bow clearance. You have to figure a way to jack the pickups up, and modify a 6 pole pickup to a rail with the same raidus as the bridge. No big with a dremel.

Quote from: SunnO))) on October 27, 2013, 01:33:40 PM
I seriously considered doing what you're saying for a long while when I was in a post rock band. Make a rosewood arch bridge, and shim the neck on any not-so-wide guitar bridge for bow clearance. You have to figure a way to jack the pickups up, and modify a 6 pole pickup to a rail with the same raidus as the bridge. No big with a dremel.

Can use a split pickup, like a P bass one, some guitars come with those for guitar.

that has to be a crazy sounding axe if it worked like i'm thinking.

2 pole bass pickups. nice.   i suppose it would still have to be set up somewhat to maintain the starting intervals between strings all the way up to the octave at least.  i wonder how much of the body above and below the strings would have to get chopped out to clear the bow? i guess you could set the bridge angles to keep the bow clear even only playing an outer string.  although butchery is the highest form of moddery 

how do they electrify violins?

Several ways. To electrify an acoustic violin you can get a piezo pickup that wedges between the bridge and the bod. I have seen solidbody electric violins with what amounts to four single string coils under each string, adjusted individually to ensure proper spacing.

Binding! I've also done the roundover on the back.

(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4721/ldo9.jpg)

Sweet baby Jesus, that thing is purty.

Very very nice.

Wow. More pics or you can go straight to hell.

Quote from: James1214 on November 07, 2013, 01:00:13 PM
Sweet baby Jesus, that thing is purty.

haha when I saw that pic that's what I said quietly to myself "jesus that's pro"

Quote from: Jake on November 07, 2013, 01:22:33 PM
Wow. More pics or you can go straight to hell.

Ha, it's not very pro, but I'm pretty happy with it.  :)
Roundover on the back, and finally decided not to put a control plate on the front:
(http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9193/4zh9.jpg)

obligatory macro shot:
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1549/t1py.jpg)

Now, a little drilling then sanding, sanding, sanding.

(http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/12/oacf.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/oacf.jpg/)

Redid the control cavity. I didn't want to mess with making my own templates, so I just used the StewMac templates and lid. Drilled for recessed Electrosocket and all pickup wiring and ground. The top is ready for pore filling, but the back needs a little more sanding.

Filled the pores on the top, and put on a wash coat of dark shellac:

(http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/9002/ddx1.jpg)

What's next? And do you need my shipping address?

Next up is LOTS of shellac in microscopically thin layers, so it'll be a couple of months until it's ready to play...

I'm building this one for myself as I don't have a P90 guitar, so no, you can't have it ;D

Well, if I can't have it at least let me help dress it. Have you thought about nickel covers for the P90s? I think they'd look pretty great with that finish.

(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Unplated-Nickel-Silver-Metal-P90-soapbar-pickup-cover-/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/$(KGrHqV,!hUFC!dYCf)WBQoo6ISR7!~~60_35.JPG)

Hmmm... intriguing.

I second the nickle P90 covers.  That looks like a delicious combo.

(http://imageshack.com/a/img839/2702/dazk.jpg)

The top is getting pretty good and I've flattened the finish with 400 grit. Got a few coats of platinum blonde shellac on the back and sides and scraped the binding clean. Pretty much ready for the final coats now.

I'm going to fuck that guitar.

Found out the machinist who was gonna do the work on my metal necks died earlier, so that plan is on hold for the moment. So sorting amps I guess.

Quote from: SunnO))) on January 23, 2014, 11:22:37 AM
I'm going to fuck that guitar.

I think the term is "make fuck".

All together, adjusting and figuring how to play without looking like I'm having a seizure now.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1948_zps5a96cd9e.jpg) (http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1948_zps5a96cd9e.jpg.html)

Gonna replace the stomp switches on my DL4 and MM4 (somebody here traded me an MM4 missing a switch, I can't remember who -- memory is shot). Youtube video makes swapping them out look easy. Once they're apart, maybe I can clean them too.  ::)

Got the soft-touch switches from Bitches Love My Switches, two bucks apiece.

Another build nearly done:
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1958_zps953bacd5.jpg) (http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1958_zps953bacd5.jpg.html)

Quote from: Lumpy on February 23, 2014, 07:50:40 PM
Gonna replace the stomp switches on my DL4 and MM4 (somebody here traded me an MM4 missing a switch, I can't remember who -- memory is shot). Youtube video makes swapping them out look easy. Once they're apart, maybe I can clean them too.  ::)

Got the soft-touch switches from Bitches Love My Switches, two bucks apiece.

...Me, I think? Glad yr using it. I just... I just never cared. Maybe I miss the Univibe a little bit.

Scored a semi broken turntable from craigslist. Resoldered the burnt resistor and then tore it apart to use as a base for a pickup winder. Hitting the hardware store for the rest of the parts tomorrow. Pics soon.

Quote from: Mr. Foxen on February 23, 2014, 01:21:59 PM
All together, adjusting and figuring how to play without looking like I'm having a seizure now.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1948_zps5a96cd9e.jpg) (http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1948_zps5a96cd9e.jpg.html)

sick bass

Here's a pic of the turntable transformed into a pickup winder. Have a p90 kit on the way. Can't wait to see what I can do with it.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/james1214/IMG_20140321_180249_049_zps99f59def.jpg)

you know...those hoover wind tunnels have righteous motors in them.. you know that right? heh

ok the thread says ask for help. can a suv load of y'all come over and help me finish my music room.
pizza and great lakes Brewing company products aplenty for all

I started poking around the breaker box setup for real. what a nasty fucking POS that old breaker setup is. it must be like the first style ever used.

then I started looking at all the nicely tucked wiring all flush behind plastered walls(ya in the garage, who knows...) my guess is this tapestry was laid out before the wall was added. not good.
the stove 220 is there and ripe for intercepting the stove outlet with one of those extension breaker boxes that ride on a main breaker. but I am hating this old Frankenstein trashbox more each time I look at it. besides, 50+ years is fair dinkum to expect out of an electrical distro system..

this deal has the separate mains fuse box. ok, that is a safe thing. fuses don't fuck up like breakers.

OK, thus, my current plan is to parallel hook-in right off the main busses AFTER the mains fuse box and go with that big 220 mains into the house. then put a small like 12/24 or as small as 8 breakers total breaker box. put a 20 amp on each phase and then fill the rest with all 10's. half for the music room and half for the fishies.
also, I will be MUCH less stressed knowing my 2 de-humidifiers each are alone on a 10 amp breaker. those compressers pull when they kick on.
that is plan A. like anything ever went exactly like it went on paper...but this seems straightforward. I can pre-wire the whole shebang, then kill the mains for 5 minutes while I tie into the 3 big buss lines.  

so I started pricing out pieces parts getting ready for the sticker shock. YAY. that shit is cheap. I can get an Eaton box and the breakers for $50-$60. I have romex for all the 110 splits, so I would only need to explore the more robust 220 mains wire,and w/e conduit  blah blah to be code. nice that romex and wire nuts is code for in wall heh. fuck stringing conduit. although I like doing the pipe bender haha. I would rather have a mandrel pipe bender like race shops have for headers and xhausts

--------------------------------------------------------
edit:  old PC power supply + MR-16 or wtf that 12volt track lighting spec is, LED spotlamp replacements may be my lighting for the main room.  those LED modules are about $10 each, but I can add them over time...hmmmm...

Please, for the love of whatever deity or deities you slavishly worship, do...not...put...wirenuts...behind...sheetrock.  Btw, I have a spare 200A surface mount Cutler Hammer load center in my garage, I'll be in yer neck of the woods all Easter Bunny weekend.  Freebee?

Screenshot from a 3D modeling program I'm running to devise a shell structure buildable from everyday brick or concrete block or whatever I want that holds up to compression. When I'm out of school in a month I'm a start doing this shit for real.
(http://i.imgur.com/C0ubXSnl.jpg)

Here's one in action, built by the software developers.
(http://block.arch.ethz.ch/brg/images/130709-allmodels-2-_1380025347.jpg?1380025347)

Still can't figure out wtf is wrong with my wah pedal other than it works fine until I kick it on during a song.

But I did fix my bassist's Bass Drive pedal. Broken wire from the input to circuit board.

Of course I had to clip the wires and remove the power jack in order to fully remove the circuit board. During which the other input wire broke off

Then had the joy of trying to remove the remainders from being soldered on both sides of the board. With easily destroyable traces. And that goop shit that melts and then fills the goddamn hole.

Well built and tough to fix. Fuckers. But I fixed it and it works. But I killed the resale value on it fixing it. Win/lose.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/6ahe9a8y.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/pyzuqezu.jpg)


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

^props to anyone who rolls up their sleeves and goes for it.

mutant, those structures and those bridges and all that is really fascinating. I dig the idea of stick house alternatives bigtime.
then the engineer in me, who has been humbled by the real world after looking godly on paper, has to ask, are these things critically/minimally designed?

here's why I ask
let's say a drunk plows into a house. the stick house is kludge of attached pieces really not any compression type of support system. so the impact energy destroys the immediate area, and some energy goes through big beams and maybe cracks some plaster etc, but the house basically stays intact.

now what if that drunk hits the compression house in one of those legs. is this an instant domino effect that collapses flat and crushes everything?

Yeah probably.

Handily these are being sited on the Thai/Cambodian steppe and I get full say over what happens on the site, so I can designate auto and foot traffic zones. Would I build one for my own home? Yes, but not without devising further structural means - not to mention a city council would never pass one of these off in the design proposal stage anyway. They look at you sideways if you bring up something other than a 2x6 wall. Good luck with that building permit.

One method could be to take the major components of the wire frame of that shell and detail it as, say, a steel frame. Then you design a panel system of whatever wall/ceiling construction best suits your needs and play legos.

Quote from: Danny G on April 09, 2014, 12:22:38 AM
Still can't figure out wtf is wrong with my wah pedal other than it works fine until I kick it on during a song.

But I did fix my bassist's Bass Drive pedal. Broken wire from the input to circuit board.

Of course I had to clip the wires and remove the power jack in order to fully remove the circuit board. During which the other input wire broke off

Then had the joy of trying to remove the remainders from being soldered on both sides of the board. With easily destroyable traces. And that goop shit that melts and then fills the goddamn hole.

Well built and tough to fix. Fuckers. But I fixed it and it works. But I killed the resale value on it fixing it. Win/lose.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/6ahe9a8y.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/pyzuqezu.jpg)


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

Powered with an adapter?  Crybaby? 

Mine, the recess in the case isn't large enough to comfortably get the adapter in there. I had to shave the barrel down, else it hung in limbo.  Sometimes it worked, sometimes not. I think it killed the signal when it didn't work though. Yours?

I've been running mine off battery as of late.

Recently moved it to front of chain and have yet to buy a right angle adapter for it.

But sitting first in chain on my board it's always unplugged when I pack up so battery is good. I think.

I should probably check. IIRC the 9v within passed the stick-it-to-my-tongue test.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

Hmmm. Maybe the battery is dead after all.

Hahaha sigh...


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/k6xl.jpg)

Slow going, I really really hope there's enough shellac on the top now and I'll leave it to dry out completely for a few days before I sand more. I've just flattened it with 1500 grit Micro-mesh so far and it looks pretty good, got no witness lines this time.

The neck is also getting somewhere. It came with a "vintage tint" (read: intense yellow) finish that I had to scrape off, the poly resisted all paint strippers that I tried. A little sanding next, then I'll refinish it with Tru-oil instead.

Those necks are a pure motherfucker to strip. I've done three of them.

Qwikstrip, and let it sit. I hand scraped it with a knife.

I love that Tele. Get on it and get it up and running!

I just ghetto fabricated a new pickguard for my Epi EB-3 (the long scale one) using only a Dremmel with the sanding barrel and the buffing wheel. Looks fine enough without scrutinizing it too much. You may also notice the HUGE .182 E-string on there, too. It's for this new thing I'm doing at a super low tuning -- F (octave down) F / A# / D#

Even with that $30 single string, I've only got $150 total invested into "building" this here bass.

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/P1090618_zpsa688eac0.jpg)

Yes, the battery in my way was dead.

And no, unfortunately, replacing it didn't make the wah work. 

Well shit.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

If it drained unplugged, it's shorted somewhere.

Wherever the disconnect from the battery is when the adapter is engaged. Probably around there.


There are so few joints in there, reflow all of them. You could have a fucked join since you were in there prodding at it. That's my usual first step. Brute force. Figure the portions of the power section from the scheme and start from there.


Short your switch to always on. Put a plug into both jacks and watch the LED.

Edit: LED COULD BE BAD.

Those wah switches are fuckin awful.

Im not pickin on you, or saying you haven't already done all this but persistence will win the battle.

jake's bass looks good. don't fuck with the fret inlays. they are perfect.

It's a crybaby I modded to fuck. Switch is a 3pdt I put in for true bypass.

I recently put it at the front of my chain and been running off battery power as I can't afford another right-angle adapter at the moment. On a fixed pedal board that is packed up when not in use. So it's not a power issue from the jack or dead battery from being left plugged in.

I'll just have to take the fucker apart and recheck wires in solder joints. Not sure when that'll be.

I'll hook it up again tomorrow. May be as simple as dead battery, then trying it out on an amp that was fucking up before I realized it was fucking up.

Yeah, I'll try the simple solution first...

I'm getting really really REALLY fucking tired of trying to fix shit.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

They make a .182 bass string? ???

There was a pic of an Electrical bass going around with a .190. Think it was the Bongripper guy.

Ok. For shits and giggles just hooked the wah up for two seconds using a diff combo amp to see what happened.

It worked.

However, the main problem I was having with the wah was it not working when I actually NEEDED it to (ie going into a guitar solo mid-song).

This is at least an improvement, tho not out of the woods/clean bill of health just yet...

edit: just checked to make sure I unplugged it before walking away... Hahaha ugh


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

I will send you one of those adapters, goddamn it.

Ha!

(That would be really awesome of you)


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

Quote from: mutantcolors on April 18, 2014, 02:00:04 AM
There was a pic of an Electrical bass going around with a .190. Think it was the Bongripper guy.

Yep, Ron's, I'm pretty sure he uses Circle K strings. He tunes it to F.

What power supply do you have

Have a One Spot to power TU-2 which is daisy-chained to everything else on board except wah, which is now before it on signal chain


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

hey mutant, cool it with the drums. the richters are going off all over potatoland. wtf?

Earthquakes - not just for California.

Look up Big Lost fault scarp in an image search.

As for my wah, it would certainly make a lot of sense re: dead battery and the symptoms it's been exhibiting: works when first plugged in (battery low) and then not working shortly after when mid-song (what little power remains being drained), as well as why nothing is obviously amiss when I open it up.

Will use it while tracking guitar for Ocean of Stars demo later this week, see what happens.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

A friend asked me to build him a bass, so I went out today and got some sipo mahogany.

(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/jcw0n.jpg)

Should be just about enough...

Are you going to finish this one? :-D

Heh, probably, but in my own time as usual :) The Tele is pretty much done now, I'm just going to leave it for a little while to cure the finish.

It was the battery. Wah works fine.

Derp.


Sent from a can on some string using Tapatalk

Hahahaha, goofball.

Good work, Danny!

My dad once tore an engine completely apart that was only out of gas.

We did that to my brother's Suzuki bandit once.

Quote from: Jake on April 28, 2014, 11:15:03 AM
My dad once tore an engine completely apart that was only out of gas.

This made me laugh out loud at this at my desk. Quite loud, all the way out.

3D print of the vaulted masonry bungalow shell.

(http://i.imgur.com/oTOwxCml.jpg)

Quote from: mutantcolors on May 01, 2014, 04:08:02 PM
3D print of the vaulted masonry bungalow shell.

(http://i.imgur.com/oTOwxCml.jpg)

that looks stout as hell. nice. are you going to perform weight/stress tests on it to see what it can really take?   
so we need to use my Styrofoam bead-cement blend idea and rock out.  main structure skeleton formed from welded rebar, blow in the styro-cement into forms.
get them hurricane approved and pwn the state of florida. super insulating,fireproof, super safe. I totally want a house like that.  fuck the shipping container idea heh.

shit, all those clowns in the CA scrub fire zones would be into this. no more roof damage from those insane winds and no more burned doewn house.

mud surfers are on their own....

If you are serious then I am in.

The plug in I used to help develop the preliminary versions of the design calculates forces created within the shell and gives you a green light to proceed with a structurally sound form by way of denying you anything but a 2D diagram if there are equilibrium issues or areas beyond stress limits. As stated, the concept works in pure compression, so I couldn't at the moment say what it's tendency to cave in from a lateral force (hurricane) would be, but those are things that can be addressed with construction detailing.

I love to sling ideas. 99% hit the cutting room floor, but it keeps the thinking going on. you never know when a real opportunity reveals itself.

could the structure be lowered? like cut 1/3 off the bottom? the upper part already has a less wind resistant curve to it. the ceiling height to floor space seems kind of tall, at least from a 1 story assumption, so maybe some vertical wall could go.
also I see where the architect/engineer could easily slide a couple of auxiliary supports or cross-braces in to prevent x-y failure without really restructuring.
also,it seems that the right thickness of wall would make this thing strong as hell in any shape, let alone a compression optimized one.

"hi, no I don't live in a ranch, I live in an igloo on acid.  it costs nothing to heat and uses no grid electricity unless someone is microwaving or vacuuming or using some other big draw appliance. you cant burn it down, knock it down or have to watch it screw up as it ages. why, what do you live in...." heh.

It is manipulable. Some of the height was to address the fact that it (they) are sited in the Thai/Cambodian steppe where it's hot as fuck 24/7/365 so you give space for that hot air to get away from you. Keep in mind as the height lowers, the angle on the wall increases and the the vault shape becomes less efficient as the compression forces move into the realm of thrust.

I see.    wonder what the ideal compromise point is, although, it could be multistory inside.  or be spacious if material cost isn't too crazy.  $400k houses all have huge wasted spaces, but..... heh.

I could easily do multistory. Could drop one o' them there columns into an upper floor, shit would get wild in a hurry. Ooh, actually there's your lateral stability, from the floor diaphragm. Interesting...

I tried the bicycle link method of pedal mounting and before the cheap as chain breaker I got from Fredy's broke it was going good.  I drilled holes on the bottom plate of my big muff and bolted them on and now for once my big muff is not going anywhere.

Quote from: mutantcolors on May 08, 2014, 02:18:07 PM

into the realm of thrust

'Tis me new band name  :D

hah!

hey , this is how those houses will get built after the rebar frame is in place

http://www.gizmag.com/flying-3d-printer-robot/31975/

folks, the future will get ugly as people exploit remote/intelligent device technology. my twisted mind has come up with a few nefarious ideas, so the real freaks are probably way ahead.   the self replicating micro-machine to kill an entire city is the one I like, then it cant be stopped and we have a science fiction story come to life.

edit: hey, they have a robot to put the rebar in place too haha
http://www.gizmag.com/3d-metal-printing-robot/30938/

edit: we need a big pile of money.  who wants to call bill gates up?

I know of some brick constructions that were assembled with a robotic arm and my prof and I talked about doing it with a mini helicopter as well, all you need is the coordinate information.

There are some buildings I know of which had all the concrete effectively 3D printed.

I'm pricing out all the materials right now to build a sealed 4x15" bass cab. Similar to/partially inspired by Al Cisneros' big green cabs, though I picked a driver and designed everything from scratch around them. It's going to be 30.5"w x 52"h x 16"d, two staggered 2x15 chambers with a shelf between the top and bottom, loaded with Eminence Legend CA154 drivers, wired to make it 4 ohm. The reason I'm making the cab is to have something large enough to sit under the new 300W KT88 powered Dunwich amp that Nick is making me. It's going to be about 28" wide, so having an ample width was a big design priority. I am still considering how I want to work out casters and if I want the back sealed and the speakers front loaded w/ a removable grill frame or a removable baffle and back panel with the speakers rear loaded.

Here's the basic layout I worked up.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/415layout_zps01f6782d.jpg)

It's going to be made with 3/4" Russian Birch ("Baltic Birch") and covered in black Duratex, with a black woven grill cloth and black hardware. Stealthy...no one will notice the giant cab on stage.

Your drawing indicates 2 plies of 3/4. Heavy.

I'm guessing that's just the front lip/baffle mount, ya?

As far as your cab options, I was thinking to myself just the other day that front loaded (back sealed) cabinets are probably sturdier than removable back ones. I'm sure that when the back is on, they're pretty much the same, but it's just the impression that I have. Also, I'm thinking that most bass cabs are made this way.

For casters, I have this type of wheel on the back end of my Atlas 6x12, and it's awesome. Very good stability and ease of transport. Simpler and equally as effective as the beveled panel on a 8x10 fridge.

(http://www.tchweb.com/tchresource/images/product-images/511-2290/511-2290800-l.gif)
http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/511-2290/c800/3--Narrow-Edge-Mount-Caster.html (http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/511-2290/c800/3--Narrow-Edge-Mount-Caster.html)

Works great with this type of handle on the top rear. Altas also include traditional recessed handles on the sides.

(http://www.tchweb.com/tchresource/images/product-images/500-236/500-236900-l.gif)
http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/500-236/c900/Edge-Mount-Handle.html (http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/500-236/c900/Edge-Mount-Handle.html)

Quote from: mutantcolors on May 13, 2014, 12:13:27 PM
Your drawing indicates 2 plies of 3/4. Heavy.

Quote from: Jake on May 13, 2014, 12:25:26 PM
I'm guessing that's just the front lip/baffle mount, ya?

Yeah, the second layer of .75" shown is just the lip for the baffle mount or the frame for a removable front grille. Could be either, depending on the way I go with it, just wanted to make sure I had enough clearance for the drivers with a .25" margin all the way around when I was laying it out.

Impressive!

I'm just repainting the inside of the house.  :-[

Quote from: RacerX on May 13, 2014, 12:45:35 PM
Impressive!

I'm just repainting the inside of the house.  :-[

Thanks. I need to do that too. I replaced all the baseboard in the house and still haven't spackled/caulked and painted it yet.

I found 8 ohm 20watt resistors at radio shaft. I can make a down-and-dirty dummy load with one of these stuck onto a 1/4" jack

edit: if you ever wanted to split that giant cab in half, just keep the proportionate volume the same. ie both small cabs together = same volume as whole large cab. then it wont sound any different.

I wouldn't recommend that. They would get wicked hot.

Agh, copper sheeting is wicked fuckin' expensive. Plan B, what else can I use to make this pickguard something special? I could stencil something on it, but then that's just kind of half-assed, I want something extravagant like the tooled leather on my other tele...

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 15, 2014, 06:40:56 PM
Agh, copper sheeting is wicked fuckin' expensive. Plan B, what else can I use to make this pickguard something special? I could stencil something on it, but then that's just kind of half-assed, I want something extravagant like the tooled leather on my other tele...

Have you thought of wood? Something burly (in the literal sense), perhaps?

Quote from: RacerX on May 15, 2014, 06:54:42 PM

Quote from: SunnO))) on May 15, 2014, 06:40:56 PM
Agh, copper sheeting is wicked fuckin' expensive. Plan B, what else can I use to make this pickguard something special? I could stencil something on it, but then that's just kind of half-assed, I want something extravagant like the tooled leather on my other tele...

Have you thought of wood? Something burly (in the literal sense), perhaps?

I have, and I have an abundance of such, but I don't think it's going to be what I'm truly after. I suppose I could use steel, but that's going to be a bitch to cut and shape properly.

(http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2011/321/f/6/f68c7816c97c2022261a8686525f4525-d4gfr21.jpg)

I can do that, pretty easily, I just think I'm going to have to bite it and buy some copper : \

Use blank PCB, thin layer of copper gives the look, works like plastic.

you can put super intricate stuff onto PCB's. I think basically whatever a laser printer can print as the mask. so photos could be done even. fwiw.

i modded that pharaoh box 10 minutes after i got it. damn right. 4 little sticky feet so it doesn't fuck up the table. BAM.   seriously, i am not even looking inside of it out of respect.
------------------------------------------------------

hey sunno, that 20watt resistor is to shut my stupid greta up. it has a 12au wtf that maxxes at 2 watts, so i have 10x dissipation headroom.  the problem is that they just whupped that combo together as a big kid's toy. it has a pre out, pre in, guitar in, ext speaker out, annnd it's own speaker.  the problem is, the speaker still plays when other outputs are being used. i guess they wanted to bulletproof the thing by always having the output attached to a speaker no exceptions.

except fuck that tincan speaker, especially when actually trying to get tone and richness. the mic will pick that shit up when using pre out to something else and that little speaker is quite efficient with its little mids. SO.  actually, a 1/4" jack is no good. i have to intercept the speaker wires inside, so i guess i will put the resistor inside and actually mangle the chassis somwhow for a switch.
that greta drives an SS combo amp nicely

regarding a bigger amp, that's why i asked about pulling the power tubes out of it. i figured why waste the tubes/the power/make heat for no good reason if i want the amp quiet for its pre, as a preferred solution to my problem.

did that all make sense? heh..the greta is not a normal amp, that's the real weirdness factor here

What's the count as using two of those with some decent speakers attached as a home audio setup?

you could. they are actually pretty quiet in the noise floor department.  tubes are really warm and rich. i would try that through nice speakers for sure to see. i think it's worth the experiment actually. any pair of tube amps that you can get the tone out of the path and get as close to straight through as possible.

you just have to stop the volume when it starts to break up. but at least it wont be harsh SS crap or worse digital, i guess go for super high gain to get louder cleaner, but idk, you risk noise floor problems..have to play...

another thing to help the sound of this new stereo is to try to match th einput impedance as closely as possible and prepare to buffer to adjust the impedance. all your tone is right there. the maximum power transfer theory is based on identical input and output impedances. fortunately, op-amp buffers are very cheap and easy to make and most importantly set the impedance on either end to whatever you want.

edit: example maybe a cd player line level is 10k(idk, im throwing numbers). you plug into th ehi-z guitar pickup optimized input which is looking for 100k. this will strangle the tone of th eoriginal material from th ecd due to huge mismatch and blocking of full power transfer. a 10k in, 100k out buffer would grease the wheels
trhe real problem is high impedance trying to feed lower impedance. there is no current drive....sounds bad...

The tone pot in my big muff took a dump on me so I put a new pot in.  I used a 50k instead of the 100k and it sounds a little fuller and less scooped.  I'm digging it.

electric amps makes a 415  http://www.greenamps.com/catalog.html

maybe get neo speakers at 8 pounds each: http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-deltalite-ii-2515-neo-15-speaker-driver--290-595?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla 

You might be waiting forever for an Electric cab.

Also:

Fuck neo guitar speakers in the neck with a knife.

I have been considering neo guitar speakers for awhile but prolly wont ever get em :(

Ill prolly get another 212 orange closed back cab and some orange 112 cabs for transport to jams/rehearsals.  but that is on the back burner maybe get the cash for that in a few yearz

I WILL say though that they are great for BASS guitar, I have the gallien onez

All my Peavey cabs are sealed back / front mount speakers. They have great low end but if you want to look at the wiring or fix anything it's a real pain in the ass.

I want to take this El Degas Les Paul Studio copy that I have and fix it up but I have to figure out where to start and get going. The neck was split at the heel at one point and repaired so most of the paint is sanded off the back could be fun to finish the job and stain it or oil it with something. Need to do some research on what oils to use.

I recently made a simple volume attenuator pedal. Basically, this cute li'l thing does the same thing as rolling down your guitar's volume knob. I've always preferred doing that to channel changing or turning on/off dirt pedals. It works great. i think it was around $17 for all the parts—shipping was probably half of that, heh.

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/image_zps7d579960.jpeg)

Quote from: Jake on August 30, 2014, 03:16:20 PM
I recently made a simple volume attenuator pedal. Basically, this cute li'l thing does the same thing as rolling down your guitar's volume knob. I've always preferred doing that to channel changing or turning on/off dirt pedals. It works great. i think it was around $17 for all the parts—shipping was probably half of that, heh.

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k32/jakeh_02/image_zps7d579960.jpeg)

Jake that is a great idea, I'm going to build one of them right away!  I'm going to try and put a tone pot in mine so I can switch over "woman" tone with the click of the switch.

thanks


Here is my latest project:  A vintage thomas organ crybaby with a TDK inductor...going to be installing a Joe Gagan "Tone Tank" inductor...here is the before video.

All right here is the after installing the Joe Gagan "tone tank" inductor, it is very Clapton Cream like totally could do Tales of Brave Ulysses with this wah now. 

Been struggling with finish problems, but I hope I'm on the right track now.

(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/674/K4XCge.jpg)

Good Lord that is beautiful.


And that wah sounds nice!

Quote from: Danny G on September 08, 2014, 10:14:32 AM
Good Lord that is beautiful.


And that wah sounds nice!

Thanks Danny, I might do a vocal mod next, going to play with it a while before I get carried away LOL

I socketed a bunch of parts on my crybaby and swapped things out to dial it in.

But that was before I found that the sound I was trying to get was mainly from the wah being *in front* of my chain instead of at the rear.

Oops. I should probably voice it a bit now, but already is 90% towards the sound I was trying to get in the first place.

Quote from: Danny G on September 08, 2014, 04:20:25 PM
I socketed a bunch of parts on my crybaby and swapped things out to dial it in.

But that was before I found that the sound I was trying to get was mainly from the wah being *in front* of my chain instead of at the rear.

Oops. I should probably voice it a bit now, but already is 90% towards the sound I was trying to get in the first place.

Position in the chain makes all the difference.  I really dig the wah in the front for Lead type stuff and at the end for rhythm type stuff.  Now that I got two good wahs I'm putting one at the front and back of my signal chain so I got it all covered.

Just did the "Jerry Cantrell' mod to my crybaby.  This mod makes rack adjustment a Breeze too!

remember when I took that old Harmony combo, and basically turned it into a tube pre-amp?

http://riffrocklives.com/forum/index.php?topic=882.msg175661#msg175661
http://riffrocklives.com/forum/index.php?topic=882.msg179333#msg179333

I'm in the middle of building a head cabinet for it and the stewart power amp in that pic.

My wife and I got a bass and guitar. Uhoh.

Quote from: spookstrickland on September 10, 2014, 05:31:13 PM
Just did the "Jerry Cantrell' mod to my crybaby.  This mod makes rack adjustment a Breeze too!

BIG UPS SPOOK! I just subscribed to your youtube channel and A/B'd the two vids, Good God what a difference. I have Stack O' Dimes in my T.O. 'baby and I'm pretty happy with it. I did drop a Whipple in my last VOX 847 and it made a huge difference.

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124516_zps9whqpctt.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124516_zps9whqpctt.jpg.html)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124546_zpsbsdd3ask.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124546_zpsbsdd3ask.jpg.html)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124429_zpsaydhppbe.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124429_zpsaydhppbe.jpg.html)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124626_zpsezvighzs.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124626_zpsezvighzs.jpg.html)


$50 Madison Heights, Mich Sears parking lot. I even asked the kid if he knew what it was, he said "yeah, I know, I'm just not into wahs". Hoooa-KAY. Thanks kid. MEEP-MEEP!

Glad you liked it.  I really enjoy tinkering with wah wahs

Quote from: Baltar on June 03, 2015, 09:19:18 AM

Quote from: spookstrickland on September 10, 2014, 05:31:13 PM
Just did the "Jerry Cantrell' mod to my crybaby.  This mod makes rack adjustment a Breeze too!

BIG UPS SPOOK! I just subscribed to your youtube channel and A/B'd the two vids, Good God what a difference. I have Stack O' Dimes in my T.O. 'baby and I'm pretty happy with it. I did drop a Whipple in my last VOX 847 and it made a huge difference.

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124516_zps9whqpctt.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124516_zps9whqpctt.jpg.html)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124546_zpsbsdd3ask.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124546_zpsbsdd3ask.jpg.html)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124429_zpsaydhppbe.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124429_zpsaydhppbe.jpg.html)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/bren1973/WIN_20150528_124626_zpsezvighzs.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/bren1973/media/WIN_20150528_124626_zpsezvighzs.jpg.html)


$50 Madison Heights, Mich Sears parking lot. I even asked the kid if he knew what it was, he said "yeah, I know, I'm just not into wahs". Hoooa-KAY. Thanks kid. MEEP-MEEP!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/30/6df479f9dd578a4749888b09ff36d1a8.jpg)

So the end of the toggle switch broke off the 79 Iceman. In the case.

Went to replace it but the spare toggle was not the box kind like the original

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/30/c0296abf034fa6e93bb1fad87c2f8ace.jpg)

Rather than alter the original old school wiring to accommodate the new switch, decided to put that spare switch in the Paul Stanley Iceman, which was also having toggle switch issues.

Works fine so far.

Acquired proper switch for 79 Iceman and will install in the next few.

Also got a 5751 (sovtek) lower gain 12ax7 variant to try in V1 of my JCM800. Tried one awhile back and loved it til it went microphonic.

Doing research turns out SRV loved them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

when changing strings on a full hollowbody instrument with a set neck, should you do one at a time or take them all off first..

Depends on if you have a cat :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn. Apparently my 40w soldering iron isn't hot enough to melt this solder :/

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/02/4cbb9f1396ddc58c756c9ebc92fece3b.jpg)

Would like to replace the toggle switch without cutting these wires (will have less slack to work with). Will try my luck with the de-soldering and hope for the best...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hey danny, i'm not really going to post much: too many people gunning for me, but I felt I needed to mention something to you to possibly save you future woes.

underpowered soldering irons are dangerous to the overall circuit.
the correct way to solder is to put enough heat into the immediate area to quickly flow the solder.
if you are underpowered, you have to soak the circuit for a long time. if the heat goes down semiconductor or electrolytic or any microprocessor doo-dad legs, it can destroy them, esp cmos.
furthermore, as the heat creeps down the circuits it can soften other solder joints resulting in crystallization=cold solder joint.

this deal with the switch does not apply since the switch can take it, but you may wish to get like a 60 watt adjustable weller for playing inside of pedals and amps.  $100. but they are pretty much standard in electronics assembly...that pretty much says it all.  like a ws51 or something like that.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have been making my own footswitches using microswitches. my regular piano style damper pedal has the travel of a piano pedal, except this pedal doesn't have to shift mechanical mechanisms like inside of a real piano, so I say to you "WTF?" I can just pivot my foot low and fast and tap a microswitch vs like working a clutch or something heh

-holds up pitchfork and torch-

THERES THE BASTARD! GET 'EM.


Welcome back you old fuck.

@jib Yeah 40w was plenty hot to heat up the switch and little else haha ugh.

When I have time I'll investigate how many watts my de-soldering iron is.

After that I'll look into seeing if I can cut the metal braid right before the joint and slide the other wires thru in lieu of cutting them completely. But I may run into issues of then trying to solder the braid to the new switch if I don't have enough heat.

May just let a pro do it, cheaper than a new iron and my chihuahua has bladder stones :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote from: Danny G on July 04, 2015, 01:47:09 PM
@jib Yeah 40w was plenty hot to heat up the switch and little else haha ugh.

When I have time I'll investigate how many watts my de-soldering iron is.

After that I'll look into seeing if I can cut the metal braid right before the joint and slide the other wires thru in lieu of cutting them completely. But I may run into issues of then trying to solder the braid to the new switch if I don't have enough heat.

May just let a pro do it, cheaper than a new iron and my chihuahua has bladder stones :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A bigger pool on the end of the iron will help transfer the heat to a larger area. Your trying to heat up too much mass with too little mass in terms of transfer area. Even though you're removing work, add solder to your tip to help the heating process along. You may need to remove solder later, but adding solder to melt it all and remove work, is effective. Just wick it later.

Success.

Finally tired the de-soldering iron. No luck

Moved onto Plan C: cut the old solder joint off with a hacksaw.

Worked. Got the new switch installed and works fine.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/2fd75dea30213d9311e0d5ce0daf60b9.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/4056d5cac6b2825448dd6e761b5149ab.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/2b3c3b7210425c8ca3225c895410e0ba.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally finished assembling my pine body P bass that I started building a long time ago. It's all setup, playing and sounding great.

(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z3/coreyyoung86/IMG_20150711_170400_zpsjepzp2zj.jpg)

Looks awesome - I love black/black/maple. A#1.

Nice P-bass! How does it sound compared to a non-pine body?

Quote from: showdown on July 13, 2015, 03:19:51 AM
Nice P-bass! How does it sound compared to a non-pine body?

Doesn't sound any different. All the tone is really in the pickup and strings, sounds the same as the MIM P that I had that was alder and had a rosewood fingerboard, just looks and feels different (better IMO). Dimarzio Model P and DR Nickel Lo-Riders. Any P I've loaded with those nails a certain tone that I love.

very nice work. 


----------------
I have been playing with my PC 12v power supply.

for the quality per $, PC supplies are really clean. they are really cheap actually vs a lab bench supply, and just as clean.

so, I have been making adapters with hard drive connectors for my 12v stuff. I have made one with 2 bare wires for my 12v car stuff, and will make more when I need to use my eq.  I made another one with a 12v power jack for my multitrack recorder and will convert a few wall wart 12v items over also with appropriate connectors.

NOW, here is the cool thing I will do next

*disclaimer: sorry, I have to slap some electrical theory on y'all, but I think you will find this of actual use.

ok, I want to get my 9v clean pedal supply going from this 12v PC supply so I have one power center for all that low power dc horseshit, and I have a ton. I can only imagine the immense tangle of power wires alone rager has.

I need to step 12v down to 9v obviously but here were my concerns:
1) nothing transformer because that HAS to involve AC=noise, so fuck anything but pure dc
2) boost/buck pucks chop voltage and stuff caps etc to monkey with the voltage at the output = noise.
fwiw, those boost/buck pucks are a godsend for engineers of small doodads.  you decide on the starting voltage and the ending voltage and make a phone call. that's it. custom power supply shit with zero engineering time.
3) I was kicking around a Ni-Cad battery deal where it switched to pure battery when you plugged something in and then back to charger when you unplugged(heyyy we all know how to kill a brand new battery in a pedal and hate ourselves for a few minutes)  BUT, I don't want to mess with batteries and some kind of charger bullshit.

here is the key fact to what I will do: a forward biased semiconductor junction has an initial voltage to overcome to get the electrons jumping across the junction.
a diode typically has a 0.7 volt hump to push through. once you have exceeded 0.7volts, the rest flows like a wire, minus the 0.7V junction drop.

zener diodes can pass decent current. you usually hook them up REVERSE biased and they have various voltage humps to exceed to make them break down and conduct in reverse.
but if you fuck up and hook it up forward, all it does is drop 0.7V like a regular diode.

if anyone has/those of you who have, horsed around in old amps you may have found a big 4-diode bridge rectifier, or maybe someone has zeners laying around.
I guess regular diodes can be used but they cant pass the same amount of energy as power diodes or zener diodes. just look at one . that itsy hair in there is supposed to take it all?? heh. eeeeee.

anyway, if you run 4 diodes in a string , all forward biased, you magically make 2.8 volts disappear, leaving a very healthy 9.2 volts. the pedal is the load, so nothing shorts out just as if it were a 9v supply.

just a thought if someone wants to hack an ultra-clean power supply that rivals anything out there made specifically for pedal boards.  any old PC like a win xp or 98 or junker with a working power supply will work. or drop $40 for a new one = still very cheap for hi-end supply.

but 3'll getcha 5 that anyone can find the pieces parts for free.

take it further: put it in a box. home depot sells a "case" of 10 on/off light switches for $4.89 or something stupid cheap. you could put 10 taps in, each with a switch.

HTH :)

Have you thought about using one of those small if voltage regulators?  I've used them and really like them....you add a couple filter caps and you get a very clean stable power supply.  Just my two cents.

Cheers

Quote from: jibberish on July 14, 2015, 04:32:58 PM
very nice work. 


----------------
I have been playing with my PC 12v power supply.

for the quality per $, PC supplies are really clean. they are really cheap actually vs a lab bench supply, and just as clean.

so, I have been making adapters with hard drive connectors for my 12v stuff. I have made one with 2 bare wires for my 12v car stuff, and will make more when I need to use my eq.  I made another one with a 12v power jack for my multitrack recorder and will convert a few wall wart 12v items over also with appropriate connectors.

NOW, here is the cool thing I will do next

*disclaimer: sorry, I have to slap some electrical theory on y'all, but I think you will find this of actual use.

ok, I want to get my 9v clean pedal supply going from this 12v PC supply so I have one power center for all that low power dc horseshit, and I have a ton. I can only imagine the immense tangle of power wires alone rager has.

I need to step 12v down to 9v obviously but here were my concerns:
1) nothing transformer because that HAS to involve AC=noise, so fuck anything but pure dc
2) boost/buck pucks chop voltage and stuff caps etc to monkey with the voltage at the output = noise.
fwiw, those boost/buck pucks are a godsend for engineers of small doodads.  you decide on the starting voltage and the ending voltage and make a phone call. that's it. custom power supply shit with zero engineering time.
3) I was kicking around a Ni-Cad battery deal where it switched to pure battery when you plugged something in and then back to charger when you unplugged(heyyy we all know how to kill a brand new battery in a pedal and hate ourselves for a few minutes)  BUT, I don't want to mess with batteries and some kind of charger bullshit.

here is the key fact to what I will do: a forward biased semiconductor junction has an initial voltage to overcome to get the electrons jumping across the junction.
a diode typically has a 0.7 volt hump to push through. once you have exceeded 0.7volts, the rest flows like a wire, minus the 0.7V junction drop.

zener diodes can pass decent current. you usually hook them up REVERSE biased and they have various voltage humps to exceed to make them break down and conduct in reverse.
but if you fuck up and hook it up forward, all it does is drop 0.7V like a regular diode.

if anyone has/those of you who have, horsed around in old amps you may have found a big 4-diode bridge rectifier, or maybe someone has zeners laying around.
I guess regular diodes can be used but they cant pass the same amount of energy as power diodes or zener diodes. just look at one . that itsy hair in there is supposed to take it all?? heh. eeeeee.

anyway, if you run 4 diodes in a string , all forward biased, you magically make 2.8 volts disappear, leaving a very healthy 9.2 volts. the pedal is the load, so nothing shorts out just as if it were a 9v supply.

just a thought if someone wants to hack an ultra-clean power supply that rivals anything out there made specifically for pedal boards.  any old PC like a win xp or 98 or junker with a working power supply will work. or drop $40 for a new one = still very cheap for hi-end supply.

but 3'll getcha 5 that anyone can find the pieces parts for free.

take it further: put it in a box. home depot sells a "case" of 10 on/off light switches for $4.89 or something stupid cheap. you could put 10 taps in, each with a switch.

HTH :)

Yep 9V regs will handle the 12V easy and give you a regulated 9V supply.

Quote from: moose23 on July 18, 2015, 07:34:31 AM
Yep 9V regs will handle the 12V easy and give you a regulated 9V supply.

4 of those 1N4007 rectifier diodes does the trick too. each one drops 0.7V for a total of 2.8V

ok, I tested my hypothesis: "Can I run a ton of shit from one source?"

here is my problem: too many power cords and power supplies when I try to hook my whole rig up.
so I made a video to demonstrate better than typing 2 volumes instead of just one, heh.
I decided to make a complete little PA system with a synth and guitar for the demo.

Here is the background info on the specific pieces-parts which the video also goes through and shows piece-by-piece

I found a nice 550w supply in my junk. it read dead on 12V. OFF TO THE RACES!!!

here is what I rigged:

1) made a 5V connector(red wire in pc power connectors) for the Arturia Beatstep sequencer which runs from a 5v USB wall wart.
2) I made a 12V center negative power connector for the Kawaii K4-r synth module for the beatstep to play.
3) I hacked a string of LED xmas lights and made a 12v power tap for that rig
4) and 5) I used my 4 diode 9v deal to power the malekko delay and the super pharaoh. I will build diodes into each connector, but I didn't get to it at this point, so both pedal taps are from the breadboard which shows the diodes better anyway
6) dug out thee olde concorde car deck. that hasn't seen daylight since who the hell knows, but but it had an aux input(best deck available at the time, even better than alpine's finest) so it got elected to help with this demo. I made a 12v power connector for it

the kawaii synth goes right into the car stero on one channel and the pedals go right into the other channel. i'm sure the impedance match wasn't ideal, but it actually got reasonably loud through those Jensen 6.25" coax's on the chairs (ignore the subs, not used)

I recorded the video at dusk so the lights would show up. that part worked ok. what sucked was the mosquitos. I was trying to ad lib something onto the sequence and I was being swarmed. the ones in the eyes were a serious distraction, so the guitar work shows lack of trve focus lol.  but I was able to try different sounds, which was more the goal vs actually performing a song.

edit: video deleted

edit: ok, it works. had to publish the video derp... canon vixia Hr500 was the camcorder fyi. basically 1st time using it.

I just had a really random thought, but this could be cool:

I was pondering op amp circuits and power rails and how to do that quickly.
then I thought of a piece of train track as nyuk nyuk nyuk "rails"
then I thought again..
(http://web4.hobbylinc.com/gr/rap/rap83_285.jpg)

waitaminute..ez2solder rails; massive insulated supports for attaching stuff between; made for carrying juice in the 1st place.....

this could be a handy proto-board platform.
you can get entire boxes of train tracks at garage sales for $10.

just a thought.....

I finished the connector setup for the 9v pedal power.

I wanted to use the 12v supply easily, but also, go back to any 9v supply and NOT have to solder etc.
so I left the straight 2.5mm 9v jacks-to-wire-to-connector rigs alone.
I put a PC power connector on the 9v wall warts
and for in-between, the 4-diode voltage dropper module which I would use on the 12v supply and leave it off the 9v supplies.
I left extension stubs for adding more connectors for more pedals since those diodes can flow some serious power easily.

(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0007_zpsxcikdmix.jpg)

Greta Mod progress (since half of that 2W greta amp is showing in the pedal power picture)

I first just soldered a 20w 8 ohm resistor in place of the speaker because it always plays and that was no good.

now I am going to add a switch and do it right. so the speaker can be turned on or off.
the pic above shows the pile of double throw switches I was able to scavenge. the SPDT in the middle looks like the others on the greta.

below is a gut shot. the wires from the meter point to about exactly the spot I will install the switch: between the aux input 1/8" jack and the ext speaker jack like below the "7" in the serial number sticker.   bonus: speaker leads are right there due to ext speaker jack and no hi-voltage tube stuff anywhere near= go for it.

(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0004_zpstdyiixbz.jpg)

**************************************************************************************************
edit:

here is first mod before I took it all apart:
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0005_zps81hquuz8.jpg)

did the dirty drilling deed. I was super freak level careful and basically only chipped the metal away very slowly.  went great. much thanks to really lame ass cheap soft Chinese steel heh.

(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0009_zpszydlkn3h.jpg)

I used pieces of insulation from another wire for my ghetto red shrink tubing on the 8ohm power resistor. if you have ever bought shrink tube, you will understand. shit is not cheap.

I also busted a next level soldering maneuver which is only possible with a really hot iron:  I nipped a bit of insulation off the black speaker return wire to use as a common.
I turned the iron way up and got a speck of solder on the tip, then jammed it onto the sliver of exposed wire with the solder. I tinned a couple mm of wire INSIDE the insulation without melting it off the wire because it happened so fast. it was smooth as silk tacking on the other wire to this well tinned dot heh.
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0011_zpsqwlvuwm2.jpg)


all taped up and tied and funky cap nut jammed on. if I get sick of that, I can put a regular bezel on.it is just more shaped like the 1/4" jacks.
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0012_zpswf2ot9ts.jpg)

no trace of mod from outside of circuit box
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/IMG_0013_zpsrxhn12th.jpg)

I've had an eqd HOOF clone on the works for months, just haven't had time and when I've had it just been too lazy to get around to finish it  ;D Maybe some night I'll have a couple of beers and finish it off.

a) get beer
b) get busy
c) all of the above

-------------------------------------------------

I plugged the old Yamaha dx-7 set to a crappy organ patch in thru the greta into the mixer->main stereo
the greta was set to be silent so it doesn't play that shit 4" speaker

here is a dicking around video of just how fugly little miss greta can get. I maxxed it all at the end.

edit: video deleted

I have been planning a small outdoor project called "the secret hidden chamber orchestra". part of the plan is speakers all around like up in the trees and eventually a realtime quadrophonic mixing capability to literally send sounds in a 360 around the listeners.  but first I will fake it with spacious stereo effects.

so I need to play with speaker positioning, listeners, me, monitor issues, etc etc.

coincidentally I cleared about 3 dozen smallish ash trees out of the yard and ended up with a heap of big kid tinker toys.
so I built a pair of 8 foot siege towers for speaker and rigging setups, or string a hammock if I give up on all the other crap.
hopefully I can figure out how I want to set things up, then set up a proper rig once I have direction. tripods always sit firmly so I went with that.

(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/siegetower1_zps04nlfsix.jpg)

this started as a car stereo. now it is a yard stereo.
the 4 chipboard boxes on top have Jensen 6-1/4 coax's. these are the satellites to the bi-amped part of the system and get 100w/ch from a receiver(actually more like 50-60watts due to 16 ohm series load)

the kicker subs just have to stay in a sub box. they are the "solo=baric" wtf they call them made for small enclosures to use as an air spring. Mr foxxen will dig it. lets you put retarded power into the speakers without bottoming out the basket. those are 4 ohms and get the up to 500w/ch from the QSC rmx1450 amp. I set the amp's 30hz sub filter on.
This is the sub half of the bi-amped part of the system. I have an mtx active 2-way crossover to split the bands. I also have a tri-amp blaupunkt crossover for if I want to get really schmancy.

the bottom dual 6" 2-ways were phillips home speakers before I melted all the drivers (120w/ch technics receiver and a Madonna cd heh)
now it has kicker 100watt long throw woofers and GM car phillips style tweeters and I put limiting resistors on them too.
the problem with these frankenspeakers is they are now 2 ohm. so I had to get a 2 ohm stable amp. those QSC rmx's are stable into 2 ohms so I got an rmx800 especially for these speakers. it can put up to 400w/ch into 2 ohms stable. these are full range with the amp sub filter set at 50hz.

so round 1 will be this mess and 2000 watts rms. if this isn't loud enough, I have essentially a duplicate of this with even bigger amps to double it up.

(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/firstspeakerset_zpsq4ewhobn.jpg)

so WTF is all this speakers and jungle towers and mutant power supply stuff for?
for the mutant rack made from a pile of scrap wood and 6 oddball cans of mostly automotive touch-up spray paint, of course.
it can either ride on a furniture mover or stand alone for stability.

this is most of the front.
beatstep sequencer sits on top
under the lid are some LED's to light up the alesis drum machine and boss general-MIDI module.
in the upper 19" rack is the kawaii synth module and the 2 lexicon reverbs.
slung under that are more LED's to light the mixer and an alesis nano compressor for analog compression if I need it on a hot channel
the mixer is a behringer 16ch 4-buss
the PC universal power supply is under the right corner of the mixer. wires are all over now but there is a whole tray under there for the pc supply spaghetti
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/rackfullfront_zpssehgsvxw.jpg)

below the mixer is the car stereo active crossover for the bi-amp system, an individually switched power center and below in the lower rack are the 2 QSC amps and the pioneer 100w receiver
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/racklowerfront_zpshmumb4ak.jpg)

most of the spaghetti in back
(http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/86jibberish/rackfullback_zpss9ovyecx.jpg)

final list of what all will run from the PC power supply:
kawaii synth module, car stereo crossover, car stereo hi-end EQ, 2 sets of LED's, beatstep sequencer, korg synth, Tascam multitrack deck, 12-step MIDI foot controller and 2 pedals at the moment.

next installment is when I get this whole clusterfuck rigged and making sound. I tested the speakers and amps before just to be sure I don't have any nasty surprises waiting.

(http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x103/sghmedia/Mobile%20Uploads/0908151849_zpsojgwjofj.jpg)

Here is a vw valve cover I painted.  Im turning unto a feedback looper that will make two pedals interactive... With controls for Feedback, Volume and Phase.

This thread needs a little:
(http://www.defibrillatorinformation.com/defibrillator-3.jpg)

Aah, that's better.

Well then. After endless coats of shellac and Tru-oil, loud swearing, apathy, moving house, gigging, more tru-oil, more swearing and finally polishing, my Tele looks something like this:

(http://i63.tinypic.com/1zx8ktd.jpg)

And I'm pretty happy with it. Neck is next.

Very nice, deep rich color.

Built a proco Rat for my bass player so he could get that Krist Novoselic tone hes been chasing....sounds really good now.

Oh ya I put in an NOS Lm308 it really does make a difference.

Last week I was in Michigan and raided my grandfather's wood pile. He had timbers in there that were cut down 50 + years ago. Mostly Cherry and mostly the heart. Making bowl#3 out of his material. Walnut and Cherry.

(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r32/EXKid1975/IMG_20160502_160355_zpsi1suaqry.jpg)


Edit:  wrong thread.. Oh well.

any thread has room for that.  just the blanks sitting there looks awesome already heh.

Thread Resurrection.

Feeling inspired, I dug in to the Tele-castor ®. New nut, fret dress, neck straight and intonation.  Got a prewired electronics kit coming for it.  When I decide I want to learn how to paint, I start with this.

(https://i.imgur.com/Q0QguR3.jpg)

Taped it off, Straightened the neck first, and I have a billet of aluminum bar that I wrapped in 180 grit to file the frets flat. Topped the frets with a sharpie to mark progress. 
(https://i.imgur.com/wpKV7JQ.jpg)

Flattened
(https://i.imgur.com/mO6PXpw.jpg)

A fret crowning file I bought in a kit from Stew Mac years ago. Use this until the marks are gone from the previous operation. 
(https://i.imgur.com/nmjbmXl.jpg)

This is a file card. It's used to clean out file teeth when they fill with metal.  My local Ace hardware had one.  Pretty essential for this. 
(https://i.imgur.com/L4DZGTq.jpg)

Crowned and buffed with steel wool.
(https://i.imgur.com/FSkMQlR.jpg)

Polished on a buffing wheel that I have on an old bench grinder with no guarding. 
(https://i.imgur.com/VFp7jKI.jpg)

The big piece of bone is the size I started with.  Cut it down on the bandsaw and started shaping it with a sanding block.   
(https://i.imgur.com/VE2rZ7T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2JPrwWg.jpg)


Here is where I am now.  Laying out the slots.  To me this is the scariest part because of how terrible it feels when it's wrong.  So i lay it out using these calipers because it's the most accurate way I know of.  Better even than using the previous as a pattern, which works too, just a little more room for error. 
(https://i.imgur.com/FNlxVn1.jpg)

it's like watching someone perform open heart surgery

But the person lives.

In the process of gathering materials and making templates to make an electric mandocello, a la Rick Nielsen. Definitely gonna be an explorer shape, which is my jam, but in black with a pickguard so as to match my other explorers.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210506/23e6cfd49a64b9ebd8092c092cc2bea5.gif)

words

That'll be quite an accomplishment.  Keep us posted. 

So getting to cutting the nut, i use a depth gauge, a fine tooth saw and the calipers.  Equalize the space of the low E and high E from the edges and set the calipers to step off 6 spots so they land directly on the mark after walking them across the nut.  Takes a few tries and adjustments in very small increments.  Once i get the right setting, i press the tip of the calipers into the bone material to establish a point. 

(https://i.imgur.com/Fnmb8W6.jpg)


Then I set the depth gauge to the distance for the point I'm focusing on.  Always working from the same edge as a reference. 
(https://i.imgur.com/W0WSm0t.jpg)


Use the depth gauge as a guide for the saw. 
(https://i.imgur.com/zg38xw5.jpg)


Do that for each slot
(https://i.imgur.com/Z2TIAKN.jpg)


Need to be careful about screwing up the polish job I put on the frets when working the saw.  I managed to mar one.  Quick cleanup though with sandpaper, steel wool and polishing compound. 

Gonna work on the neck seat next before I finalize the nut. 

Could you also loosely string the guitar and somehow mark that way. Wouldn't help with depth obviously but. Just curious.

If I were to try that, I probably would use the old nut to group the strings together with a rubber band or something.  It would keep then spaced out.   I suppose it could work.  More than one way to do it, for sure. 

Not sure if I've replaced a nut or not but I'm sure your method will work just fine. Technical stuff is in your wheelhouse so...

Cutting bone with power tools smells like getting your teeth drilled.  You'd probably remember that.  Not sure about other materials. 


On to the neck.

Pocket is probably fine.  I could fill in the voids to get maximum contact with the neck.  Probably leave it though. 

(https://i.imgur.com/DsnOkVp.jpg)


But the neck is not fine.  Who knows how these holes ended up this way. 

(https://i.imgur.com/QItHg7H.jpg)


I show you feex!

On the left is a plug cutter.  It makes plugs similar to dowels, but dowels always have grain like a tree branch.  So a screw would need to bore into end grain.  Plugs can be cut with face grain like a neck actually shows. 

On the right is a forstner bit. I used 1/2" plugs. Pics are of 3/8". 

(https://i.imgur.com/JENHVdE.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/YdH2Cbo.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/zoKHIgk.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/b30abe3.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/AkI9fec.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/QYO6N5g.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/6IRSB1f.jpg)

I messed up cutting off the plugs. Won't be able to see it hidden in the neck pocket. 

(https://i.imgur.com/MvpznUE.jpg)

Fucked up the nut.  Cut the high E too deep.  Have to re-cut it.

Dammit. 

Cutting bone is only slightly more pleasant than cutting antler. Antler smells like burning hair and burning rubber gangbanged the liquid at the bottom of a Los Angeles dumpster.

words

Getting this parts-caster to be a good playable guitar has semi-literately been polishing a turd.

The results are far better than the sum of its parts. 


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210513/d193c3ef434723a1bc9bef2146ee2f65.jpg)


Here's a pic of the body from the last year.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210513/7777998ff0778a363cff3be7e09637b1.jpg)

Ooooo. Speed knobs on a strat! 

That's really cool.  Looks like you replaced a ton of stuff.  I like the paint. 

That strat does look like fun. Is that a mute switch on an arcade button?

12MM momentary/kill switch. I'd thought about a larger, arcade style button, but this is small enough to still be reversible.

The kill switch is so fucking cool. The whole thing is darth vader. I'd love to see it in action

Thanks. I'm finding it hard to get pics that do the stained grain justice. It ain't bad for such a hodgepodge of shit cuts of wood.
The body is from an early 90's Squire that I'd bought used. It started out life light blue and weighed a ton. Before selling it the original owner had thrown it from an apartment balcony at his wife's car as she drove away. The only damage was a scuff and a bent tuner.
When I got it in '94 I'd stripped the paint with Jasco. I'd planned to go down to bare wood, but soon found the reason for all that weight was what must be the thickest layer of sanding sealer ever used on a guitar body. I'd buffed out the sealer as best I could and just left it natural for 25 years. I've beat the shit out of every incarnation of guitar this has been on. The body has a few hairline cracks. The neck had to be reattached a few times. The original neck is now on a guitar I'd given my nephew. I'm not sure he still has it.

Recently I'd decided I'd finally get it down to bare wood and also replace the vintage style trem with a modern two point style. Unfortunately that didn't work out well. What I'd discovered is the differences in quality of the wood used for the three laminated body pieces was more than cosmetic. One post was firm in a dense piece while the other was in a much softer piece. I decided WTF, this thing is shit, what if I cut it up for the cheapest Floyd Rose Copy I can buy? What do I have to loose? I ended up reinforcing the post area with an epoxy. I also filed out a nice recessed area to give the trem space to pull up a whole 5th.
Not visible in the picture is a reverse spring/shock to stabilize the whammy.

My objective was to scratch the itch I was having for a "shredder" guitar. My initial inspirations where Ed's Frankie and more so Vai's Greeny. I'd  thought about staining it green, but settled on doing black on black. I may put an EVH D-tuna on it.
It sure is fun to play, but has not stopped me from wanting to just buy a Charvel anyway.

Daaaaaasng Eric, that strat looks awesome.

words

Awesome story.  I have a basketcase story of a 1984 flying V designer series that I'll share when I get around to working on that one. 

Finally got the nut right.  Used graphite in the slots, why it's all dirty looking. 

(https://i.imgur.com/XODdi4q.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/jqktaEQ.jpg)


Waiting for the electronics now.  Ordered a set pre-wired from RS Guitarworks.  Dude is pretty backed up, and I was #16 in line as of Friday morning. 

So in the meantime I'm working on my gold top Hagstrom swede.

The binding has separated at the top of the neck on both sides. New nut on this thing is a given as the stick plastic one has been underwhelming since I bought it at Capital City Guitars in Olympia WA in 2006.   Overall I'd say this guitar has been a bit of a disappointment in terms of how well it's held up, compared to other Korean made 2nd/3rd tier guitars.  Glue was all that was necessary to keep the binding from separating.  They failed at glue. 

(https://i.imgur.com/yNgDyf5.jpg)

For now, all I'm going to work on with this one is the string/neck area, maybe dive in to the guts in the future. 

Didn't exactly do a great job with re-glueing the binding.  Or removing the old janky plastic nut.  Got the new nut in, but still need to file the depth of the slots. 

(https://i.imgur.com/Mbu5utw.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/Nc1qt0Z.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/cf1doSY.jpg)

Funny thing is though, that even with the barked up area at the nut the whole guitar felt night and day more comfortable than it used to.  That binding separation on the back side of the neck was so noticeable.  And i see I need to scrape and reglue the top side again.  Three steps forward, one back it seems. 

I figured I'd use an ebow as a signal generator then hook the guitar up to my o scope to try and find the biggest signal from the pickups. 

Neither my mom and pop shop nor GC had one at the store.  Mom and pop guy said rona supply chain problems has the ebow people slow to fulfill.  Not sure how true that is or if that's just the standard answer for now.

Interestingly while at GC, I stepped in to the acoustics room.  Their high dollar guitars are locked in their hangers.  So much for "We love when you touch the stuff". 

Spent most of yesterday rewiring my 79 Iceman.

Needed a new toggle switch as it was having trouble staying locked in the down position.

Have been apprehensive about redoing the electronics as it's been my main guitar for 17 years and I'm used to the way it sounds.

But opening it up I realized the electronics are almost as old as I am so probably time to swap them out.

Made a nice wiring harness. Used tropical fish caps cause they look cool (can go back to the orange drop if I didn't like it).

Go to install only to realize the old holes will not fit the new pots. Shit.

So I could either drill out the holes, or just clean up the old guts and put em right back in.

Opted for the latter. Had to use the original input jack too as none of my spares had a long enough shaft (ha!) to accommodate. Did replace the tap switches at least.

I'm guessing had I drilled it out for the new pots the original stock knobs would not fit them.

Before

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210527/027164615e65f0a4fef17dfffb3059c2.jpg)

After

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210527/892491ae5f541b12fe61fe60bc671f7c.jpg)


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Nice clean iron work! What solder did you use there?

Short shafted.  TWSS

I'll have to look, it's whatever came with the iron. Finally splurged on a fancy adjustable temp iron last year.

That helped immensely. Used a higher temp than I would for soldering pedal parts, 760F over 560F


And heh. Shaft.


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Thanks for the detail on the temperature - that answers my questions better than the brand of solder. I'll dial up my iron temp! Been soldering too low, on the backs of pots anway, for fear of baking them. Better to get in there and out quick, I imagine (and not bake them, derp). I picked up some "Cardas quad eutectic silver solder with rosin flux" for my hifi stuff. Anywho...Rock on.

Yeah my previous work on pots with a low temp iron was Le cringe.

Turns out it more the iron instead of my own faulty technique haha ugh...


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So, I had realized after posting my SoundCloud jam that I never shared this bass with you all. On the jam it's played through my bro's Mark Bass combo with some auto wah for a bit. [soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/ericdemby/rerun-to-fornever[/soundcloud]
Affectionately called this yellow thing the pee-bass. I have no idea what brand it is. I bought it off of a tweaker in the early 90s for a $10 bag of weed.
A few years ago I pulled the frets out and planned to "restore" it. Never bothered, it sat and sat.
The body and neck are nice pieces of mahogany. The "fretboard" in a 0.5 mm thin stained veneer that almost sanded through in spots. It had been hidden by shitty binding that was crumbling off when I'd got it. I replaced the garbage hardware with cheap Chinese fender-like bridge and tuners found on eBay. The original pick up was just a scab of rust. I replaced it with a generic Chinese pick up, not sure if it's for bass or guitar. I only bought it because of its dimensions it fit the hole of the weird pick up that was in there. I had to ad a small plate of pickguard plastic to fill the gap, another by the bridge, over the ground wire hole. I doubted it would have a good tone at all. I really was just looking for something to do, and another project meant to salvage a few garbage parts into a playable instrument with the interest of satiating my G.A.S. It ended up being great, this is really fun to play has an awesome growl and is really forgiving you can beat the shit out of it it still sounds all right.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/fd11d5ad23184963b23c6d36a4aa41bb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/00fdd541b3ca04d1b0020806f6869c8f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/945010cafdfff9d4a479e2b740461caf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/3c548b5940a71e743cff3336579fa47e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/b04a7a2828de8fe3ed63d5e4b572de95.jpg)

Cool bass!

I ripped my pedalboard apart, drilled some holes in it, and installed some desk grommets in it in order to clean up the wiring.  I also moved the power cable to come out of the front of the board.
The voodoo power supply takes up a lot of real estate underneath and this was the best option.


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/c9c70dde901028ca10f877c02e29f393.jpg)


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210624/596a771f41b70d310a3f0e3c57075cc8.jpg)


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Built this shelf out of scrap wood i had kicking around the shop, specifically made to house pedals. Have to add some Velcro on the back panel for storage of smaller pedals and things I use with less frequency. Bottom shelf well get the wahs, volume pedals and other assorted larger bits of kit. Overall I'm pretty stoked, and a good way to spend an afternoon in the shop playing around and having fun.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210710/059126fae5f9a3cc0e8475e3e803e70e.jpg)

words

Nice

Finally found my bag of cable clips and got all the wires secured on the new pedalboard

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210710/b712a4b19e29e5d23c5e6396c7b58fa1.jpg)

Next up is build a case for it


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Those pedal risers are cool. I like the shelves too, I wish I had some like that.

@James - shelves are looking nice.

I'm willing to buy the pee bass from you for TWO $10 bags of weed. Double your initial investment! Let me know...

Quote from: neighbor664 on June 05, 2021, 11:31:10 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210605/945010cafdfff9d4a479e2b740461caf.jpg)

Quote from: Submarine on July 10, 2021, 03:04:26 PM
@James - shelves are looking nice.

Thanks, it's a small step towards getting this room in order. It's my catch all art and illustration/boardgame and movie storage/3d printing/music space, and I desperately need organization so it doesn't get absolutely fucking insane (which it currently is)

words

Just swapped out all the chrome hardware for black on my glitter tele, added a modern tele bridge and had to shift the humbucker a 1/4" toward the neck to work with the new bridge. I really like the aesthetic much more now, it felt kinda disjointed before (the tuning machines are all black as well) also that bridge just looks good.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210815/94778404320dbb205e38b7bc1bbb6eef.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210815/fe1c566a8c2566619913c8d967dd4365.jpg)

words

Sweet upgrade. The black hardware looks better.

Also, this may be some snake oil bullshit, but i think the bridge sounds more solid, more thick, maybe the increased contact with the body? I like it.

words

better luck next time. That's a very bad paint job. horrible.

Uh, what? Thats like your opinion man. Its a glittery AF fiddle that I happen to love. What makes it a "horrible" paint job? Because it's not your style?  I'd say it's less than awesome to talk such shit about something someone is proud of.

words

Looks cool, to me. Shrugs.

Yeah I like it too. And you're probably right about the bridge.

So does anyone have experience with humbucker esquire style switching? parallel/single/series? Its got a super distortion, which is a 4 comnector humbucker, so I can actually do that, but I dont know how much its worth doing, at least I'd get more tones out of the thing.

words

With just the one p/u I might just do the coil split. The other seems to be utilized with the neck p/u for whatever reason. I've got a cheapo GFS Les Paul with all that stuff and I rarely use it but that's me.

Quote from: James1214 on August 16, 2021, 02:05:34 AM
Uh, what? Thats like your opinion man. Its a glittery AF fiddle that I happen to love. What makes it a "horrible" paint job? Because it's not your style?  I'd say it's less than awesome to talk such shit about something someone is proud of.

words

nevermind was just teasing although that came of unfortunatley. If I were to play with the circuit I'd probably pull everything except the volume control, super trim it down for pure SD, possiblly to fit a specific amp. Out of the blue, but here's a guitar cable that has adjustable loading and may/or may not get you dialed in tonally. Personally, I have never run a SD but do people split those? I have this cable (not what you asked for but its secret sauce at the studio) If live then TL:DR skip to Reverend Contour....

not affiliated and they've gone on sale from time to time
https://www.undertoneaudio.com/products/vari-cap-instrument-cable


here's another take, 2 volumes. MIght not get you the split you want but get the results. I'll can try to find out the wiring but doubt he'll tell me it was a propriety type deal. I have previous contact so why noy ask and can only hope.
https://reverb.com/item/3417370-whitfill-tejas-billy-gibbons-tele

Another idea is the Reverend Guitars approach - their bass roll-off knob. Vol/Tone/Bass roll off.
https://www.reverendguitars.com/guitars/reeves-gabrels-dirtbike

sadly I'm not seeing where they sell the knob but I can take pics of my Gabrels. It does work really well. No weird phase-y notches in the tone spectrum.   

They call it:
"BASS CONTOUR

This passive bass roll-off is great for tightening up the low end, or re-voicing the pickups. It can make a humbucker sound like a single-coil, or give a P-90 that classic twang. Variable pickup voicing at your fingertips!"

words. none of which answer you original question though.

All the best and remember, less really is more.

Quote from: James1214 on August 15, 2021, 02:22:52 PM
Also, this may be some snake oil bullshit, but i think the bridge sounds more solid, more thick, maybe the increased contact with the body? I like it.

words

beautiful tele. I dont think that bridge sustain is snake oil bs. I put a badass bridge on my bass years ago and i love it. Ive never really liked stock fender bridges. Fenders are like old muscle cars. They are meant to be hotrodded.

Quote from: mortlock on August 19, 2021, 11:50:58 AM

Quote from: James1214 on August 15, 2021, 02:22:52 PM
Also, this may be some snake oil bullshit, but i think the bridge sounds more solid, more thick, maybe the increased contact with the body? I like it.

words

beautiful tele. I dont think that bridge sustain is snake oil bs. I put a badass bridge on my bass years ago and i love it. Ive never really liked stock fender bridges. Fenders are like old muscle cars. They are meant to be hotrodded.

Truer words have never been said.



I'm in the process of rehousing my old bassballs into a smaller enclosure. I'm running more effects than usual and need the real estate on the board

Quote from: James1214 on August 15, 2021, 02:22:52 PM
Also, this may be some snake oil bullshit, but i think the bridge sounds more solid, more thick, maybe the increased contact with the body? I like it.

words

How's it going with the tele? Was just perusing some old links and thought of you. (Glendale guitars makes some trick tele parts, mostly for twang/country stuff but I've got some old strat gear from them too) Anywho, they mentioned mounting a pickup directly into the wood instead of floating in the ring. (I might have done this with my SG, don't remeber but I'll look) Nothing new there but just an idea if you're still tweaking your guit.

I put mine out for a sun bath. Probably won't do anything, maybe lighten up the shade a bit after some days/weeks. Poly but why not let it breath. Just a thought if you wanted to bake out some nitro or whatever. /rambling. Not here to post this guit but what the heck. Looks like I better oil the fingerboard. Too bad it's not a darker board but it is what it is.

What kind of oil do you use for the fretboard? I've got a 30 year bottle of juice, lasts forever.

(https://i.ibb.co/nfFPGmq/IMG99.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfFPGmq)

That's a cool guitar.   

It'd be fun if you would play it. It's a good one. Lemme know if you're in the studio sometime, I could loan it out. ps. it was signed by Reeves.

Muffin Man, I've just been playin' the tele for the last coupla weeks, have a whole host of projects around the house and haven't dug into figuring out wiring. At the very least I wanna split it so I can have a single coil sound.  But honestly, there's no getting around the fact that because I play in C standard, and have a super distortion in it, it's basically a tele shaped metal guitar. Not a chickin' pickin' country bird.

words

James1214, cool. I looked at Dimarzio, maybe redundant to your search but under their "SPECIAL" section there's a cool wiring. Single hum, split, parallel, series. I'm not seeing what they say about vol. pot value (500k?) Anywho, just a thought.

https://www.dimarzio.com/support/wiring-diagrams
https://d2emr0qhzqfj88.cloudfront.net/s3fs-public/diagrams/dual_split_phase.pdf

Ha, literally have had those pages in my bookmarks for like 6 months.

words

I know I have something worthwhile yet. Maybe not, but danggit I'm digging.

I hella appreciate the links. Honestly it wasn't until I clicked on them that I remembered that I already saved them. (My bookmarks list is entirely too long and completely unorganized)

words

That's it! I have a bookmark, somewhere, that solves the entire equation that you, possibly (with luck), may be seeking re the 4-wire pup split/trick. Wanna know how to loose a bookmark? Loosed a harddrive. Let the pcb-controller fry.... immediate toast. No more bookmarks! I've PM'd you fellow boarder

Obtained the tremolo kit. I've begun painting the enclosure

(https://i.imgur.com/LB64IqS.png)

Currently making one of the dumbest things I've ever made..... And I love it. Not been concerned at all about fit and finish or the visible decal edges, I kinda like how shitty it looks, given the ridiculous price and praise of the real thing.

I present the Reverse Centaur.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220205/2af5627b3d8437cb8357c2ade58d3d2e.jpg)

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Bad ass.


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Its done, sounds fucking killer.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220206/3cb8b0c3c928dd3cb1a1875c8c7fb998.jpg)

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Sweet!

In my search for an additional low-gear overdrive so I don't have to tweak settings on my Blues Driver between songs, I built my own Klon Centaur clone and it kicked the shit out of the other contenders fair and square

Of course now I have 2 ODs and 2 fuzzes on my board, and do not stack them. Each is its own sound.


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Quote from: renfield on February 05, 2022, 01:08:19 PM
Obtained the tremolo kit. I've begun painting the enclosure

(https://i.imgur.com/LB64IqS.png)

Is that the Brown Face?  I built one but I don't remember it being a brown face type.

Yep. Doesn't work (yet). I'm such utter shit at soldering, should have started with a simpler circuit for my first PCB.

(https://i.imgur.com/30xSUf6.png)

(https://i.imgur.com/58XftKU.png)

Successfully built the Bass Overdrive from byoc. Cool circuit! Sounds way heavier than the od I was using

(https://i.imgur.com/0cAD0vk.png)

Got my guitar boat back in working order. Had to cut some new pieces of wood and paint them black to match, then reinstall the metal pieces.

Cheaper than buying a new one

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220501/ab456a62d45587c2210b3558f502da87.jpg)


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Next up is pulling apart my bass cab to address  and reglue a farty dust cap on one of the speakers

(I hope it's just the dust cap)


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I did finally get to field test my LP Studio after completely replacing the guts and adding the early 00's Rio Grande BBQ.

Holy cow it played itself. Thought the different body shape would throw me a bit over the Iceman. But was reminded I've actually owned the LP longer than that 79 and it was becoming my main guitar towards the end of Southern Gun Culture.

Awesome. The 79 needs some imminent fretwork and if I need to leave it in the shop I have a fully functioning backup. (I'd have been using the LP more, but the 79 just looks cooler )

And I like the purposely mismatched chrome cover on the Rio Grande. Looks like C-3PO's oddball silver leg after he got blown up in Cloud City hahaha

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220502/d7ceed87796a0c010533d128f5bb6a92.jpg)


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Finally pulled the Dietz 2x15 cab apart and got to re-gluing the dust cap. A lot of effort just to get the speaker out.

Glad I pulled it apart tho, ALL of the bolts holding the speakers screws on were hand-loose. Tightened them all back. Also taped the proper Allen wrench for the weird screws *inside* the cab so I never have to search for it again.

Won't be able to field test until next weekend. Hope it worked.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220510/93fed4f352225438dcfa8a0c1842c654.jpg)


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Those Gauss (sp?) speakers in that thing?

The basket looks like EV to me.

Alright nerds. After well over a decade my soldering station finally crapped the bed. So I'm in the market for a new one. Looking for recommendations for a decently priced and reliable station. Say around $75-100. My last one was the one I got in the BYOC starter kit. Thanks in advance for any help.

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You're probably already familiar with StewMac but if you're not, go there.

https://www.stewmac.com/search/?q=soldering+iron

Get a Weller.  The one I have is outdated, in the sense that I don't see it on Amazon, but I'd get this one if I were looking right now. 

Weller WE1010NA Digital Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JDGY1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MN2M3PAS8DD2G3K0GGKK

Or a Pace. But they're expensive. 
PACE ADS200 AccuDrive High Powered Soldering Station with TD-200 Tip-Heater Cartridge Iron (Tips NOT Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DX7DGRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YX6G2W0473VAQ9ZBFFYB

Top of the hill would be this one that has a desoldering vacuum, sucker thing.  This was what we had in school when I was a younger person.

Pace MBT 301 Soldering & Desoldering Station - with TD-100 Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H42PYFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4PDD88RWQ0W1BFSPWK14




This is the one I have.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-WES51-Soldering-Station-w-Iron-Solder-kit-/255527324577?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Yes, EVs.

And according to lore, EV helped Dietz design this bass cab around their speakers as part of their partnership. No wonder this thing sounds so goddamn good.


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Pissy, my neighbor, who's an electrical engineer recommended the Hakko 888d. He's actually got an extra he's gonna give me, so yeah..... Thanks for the rec, but my cheap ass will take no dollars spend for a piece of gear any day. I'll report back on if I like it or not.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220512/20da5f3ced288ce2682ae2fa148625ac.jpg)

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Quote from: Pissy on May 11, 2022, 11:42:19 AM
Those Gauss (sp?) speakers in that thing?

Came across this term reading about some pickups.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauss_(unit)

The speaker in my bass cab ain't farty no more. Yay it worked.


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I've had this stupid little thing around for so long I can't even remember where I got it. Decided to make it somewhat playable. Had to shim the neck cuz no truss rod. Changed out the tuners with better ones. Had to drill the headstock out to fit. Meh. Changed out a couple bridge hardware pieces. Now just trying to intimate the thing. Kinda good but hey.

The scale length pencils out to 19" ?  I think.

(https://i.imgur.com/nchY8Qg.jpg)

Do you record?  That would be a good candidate for some weird off kilter sound in the background on a recording.

Just to be clear, I did not try to intimate it. That's a typo. Intonate.

Ok. I need heavier gauge strings for a short scale/mini guitar. Hmm. I've got some beefy slinky's maybe.   

I'll read more about this.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220529/2e47d9a3b010a7cc1d1f37c0df745fb9.jpg)


Finally built Dual Phase 90 clone v3.0

Two speed setting via the up top toggle switch.

Red channel has R28 on for the gain bump.

Green channel has R28 off for more transparency


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Looks good Danny!

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Not sounding as "Phase 90-ish" as I'd like, so will tweak the trimpot and check some values.

Phase 90 clone has been a tough nut to crack. Of the several I've built over the years, they always seem to pale in comparison to the store bought ones.

Trying to avoid having to hack an existing circuit, but gotta do what you gotta do


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Update:

Finally sat down with the store bought Phase 90, the dual clone, and a small screwdriver and got it properly calibrated.

Trimpot was a bit off but now it counts close.

Also, didn't realize the sweep in knobs was different. 11:30 on the store bought translated to about 2pm on the clone. So that's why the green channel sounded off too.

Sat there with a metronome to dial in the faster rate. 77bpm was it.


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There's am/pm on phasers? 😃

If it matters, the EVH setting us between 9 & 10 o'clock in a 90.

I've got a 45 and the JHS 3 which is both. I like it.

But building your own is way cooler. I'm lazy.

Worked on the pink Kramer today. Changed out the pot. and trem block, changed strings to 10's basic intonation and action height. See how it is tomorrow.

Hot ass p/u.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220609/e7199aaa6056b40afce503775ff84cba.jpg)


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The difference in the trem blocks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220609/73cbebec84a345c36ed03600d98fdb60.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220609/a8178bcbbad67f4281d968011f7a667d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220609/beb02d1443ea3fe0aae863420ae7d93e.jpg)

Kinda fucked up the high E nut slot in the blue Kramer. No bigs. Have 2x black Tusq XL nuts coming.

Cutting a nut isn't easy.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220613/6d7e82b0da1e31817efcf2850bea7e0a.jpg)

Taking a stab at a mod-able Blues Driver clone. Wish me luck o_O


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Well shit it doesn't work (no sound)

Went back and re traced it all (several times) and fixed 4 errors I made. Still not working. Blerg.


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I've never bread boarded anything. Where do you start? 
I guess I'd probably just start YouTube ing stuff.

So breadboarding is pretty easy, and you can do super complex things with it. Then you can transfer those designs to perfboard (like what Danny has up there) if you want to get the basics of perfboard down I'd build a kit, or if you have a bunch of parts you can use a template, I've built a few from http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com , and it was a fun process, although I much prefer PCB kits. An important note is that on their board layouts the red circles indicate where you need to cut the traces, then you populate and solder as per normal.

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The exact layout I used. The layouts for literally everything are all over the internet

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220615/f0779fea87efd7b87acb89a957bc9e49.jpg)

Kind of a complex circuit, not surprised I'm having issues.

For $8 I could buy a pre-printed circuit board from a few sites. I'll try that next.


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Quote from: James1214 on June 14, 2022, 10:20:01 PM
So breadboarding is pretty easy, and you can do super complex things with it. Then you can transfer those designs to perfboard (like what Danny has up there) if you want to get the basics of perfboard down I'd build a kit, or if you have a bunch of parts you can use a template, I've built a few from http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com , and it was a fun process, although I much prefer PCB kits. An important note is that on their board layouts the red circles indicate where you need to cut the traces, then you populate and solder as per normal.

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Yeah I've built several pedals and also a fairly complex synth with dual sided pcb,s. Just curious where folks start.

I definitely don't need any more goddamn pedals but if I were to build something else I'd want it to look like this.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220615/904160bf1e18ab18bf16d6bd99d6d15c.jpg)


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That looks like turret board construction without the turret board. 

That is fucking sexy is what it is.


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Yeah it's beautiful.

So is that a Reeves pedal?  I mean it looks like a schematic in physical form.

Yes. Reeves. Not to be confused with Dave Reeves/HIWATT though. It's a clone of the Zonk Machine from the 60's.

Ugh..... So sexy. Those point to point circuits are so killer looking. Hard to do right, though, the skill required to make it look clean is pretty high. I say go for it. Maybe start with something simple like a fuzz face.

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I would imagine much of it is assembling on a jig and final soldering that sheathed wire from the jack to the switch.

But laying out the placement would be key.

Damn. I like a challenge.

Layout on a breadoard first to refine the placement and make it pretty, then make the more rigid parts to match.


Something cool to do would be to make the layout into shapes.  Inverted crosses and pentagrams for example if the circuit would allow.

Reeves just added a video of his very well laid out teeny tiny little workshop. Really cool to see.

As for what I'm trying to accomplish today. I've got 2 Black Tusq nuts for the Kramers. One down and the next to go. Pretty close fit. Just had to shave a wee bit off to fit in the slot on the blue one. Width side to side is fine. I didn't realize when I changed out the trem blocks that they both rub just a tiny. Didn't know cuz I wasn't using the trem until I changed the nuts.

Pulled out bridge, rotary rasp bit in the Makita did the trick. Pink one is on the bench now. I'll futz with final adjustments and more intonation, spring tension and the like once both are back together.

Let 'em sit over night and give 'em a go tomorrow.

Lots of guys are immediately changing out the tuners, bridge, pickups, nut, etc....  I'm trying to stay in the spirit of keeping them cheap by changing the absolute necessary things and just putting some time and work in the other components to get results. At least for now.

Both stay in tune really well with fully stretched 10's and heavy bends. Not so much with the wiggle stick. Meh. Not much f a whammy guy anyways but I'll work on some more stuff.

I posted aYouTube vid.

https://youtu.be/JYt9ysZjPGA

So I got this tele...



(https://i.imgur.com/9FGEMzR.jpg)


I bought this Freeway switch.  6 positions.  The traditional 3 spots, then another 3 that puts both pickups in series in-phase, parallel and series out of phase. 


(https://i.imgur.com/3Mb0iLf.jpg)


Linky.  I got the one for telecaster, obviously.  But they make strat and LP versions as well. 


https://www.freewayswitch.com/products/ (https://www.freewayswitch.com/products/)


I might actually take video of the install. But don't hold me to it. 




Wiring diagram:


https://sef545d194250e953.jimcontent.com/download/version/1496907673/module/7492827115/name/3X3-03%202PU%202Pot%20A%20Part%201.pdf (https://sef545d194250e953.jimcontent.com/download/version/1496907673/module/7492827115/name/3X3-03%202PU%202Pot%20A%20Part%201.pdf)

Quote from: James1214 on May 11, 2022, 10:19:39 PM
Pissy, my neighbor, who's an electrical engineer recommended the Hakko 888d. He's actually got an extra he's gonna give me, so yeah..... Thanks for the rec, but my cheap ass will take no dollars spend for a piece of gear any day. I'll report back on if I like it or not.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220512/20da5f3ced288ce2682ae2fa148625ac.jpg)

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My Weller had issues with the connection from the iron to the base, and I decided to buy one of these Hakko units instead of shotgunning parts.  I'm glad I did.  It's very nice, and works well.


My local guitar tech setup dude had one and he sold me on it.  Very quickly heats up and holds it well.  Not the biggest fan of the sponge arrangement or the holder well.   The sponge has some cuts in it that leave little material to keep it held together.  But it's not a big deal.

I should probably get a new iron set up. Mine works good, if you're not in an hurry.

I put nickel covers on my Washburn HB-30.  I dig it. 


I was looking into getting some Pearly Gates but they're so expensive. And the other day I was playing it and I thought it sounded great.  So this is the solution I came up with.  Thought I'd have to wax pot them, but they already were potted.  Sweet!


I did have to measure the pole spacing in mm, and find the right match. $9 on Amazon. 


Before:


(https://i.imgur.com/YNQSufC.jpg)




After:




(https://i.imgur.com/RUXTjq8.jpg)

Nice!

If those pickups squeal with the covers on, you'll have to wax-pot them.

Plenty of YouTube links if need be. Fun but messy process


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I expected to have to, but they were already potted.  At least a bunch of wax came out of them when I unscrewed the pole pieces.  I still haven't plugged it in though so I guess I should once the house is empty. 

I tried adding a chrome cover to a pickup years back and couldn't get it to *not* squeal until I wax potted it


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Plugged it up and turned it up.  No squeal. 

Jazz guitar. Like a sonny sharrock vibe. I dig it.

that's a wrap folks

I always wanted squeeler, though, tame that hog! bark bark!

Quote from: mortlock on January 11, 2023, 03:58:19 PM
Jazz guitar. Like a sonny sharrock vibe. I dig it.

it's more like a bb king wannabe that sounds like the guy playing it is really into southern rock.  Even if he isn't very good.  Actually, not if.  Just he isn't very good.

I've never had an f hole arch top. Not a priority but it'd be cool to have one. That Washburn looks decent.

It's really not bad.  Not the biggest fan of the burst aspect, would prefer a red one I think.  The HB-35 is more fancy with mother of toilet seat, gold hardware but it came in natural. I think I'd like one of those too.


The one thing about these 335 copies for me is the switch location. I hit that damn switch all the time.  Same on a les paul.  I want to move the switch to where the knobs are honestly, and plug the hole with a grommet cap or do like Lordfinnese did and put a dummy 1/4" jack in it, then run a patch cable to the back of the guitar out of sight. Just to make people wonder.


The epiphones and genuine 335's put the switch near the knobs. 

Put this kit together today. Had it laying around for years. I must've robbed some parts cuz I had to digging around to find a  few replacements.

Stepped tone generator. I connected it to a Moog CP251 for a couple different waves via control voltage.



(https://i.imgur.com/YZIiSV0.jpg)

Trippy. So the new bits generate the signal, and induce various steps to the wave then you fed that into the moog to further manipulate ?  Or is the moog like a second influence on the signal fed into it?

Its "engine" is the 556 IC which is 2 555 IC's in 1 14 pin configuration. I think the original design used the two 555's.  I've seen other builds with two IC's on the pcb.  It's capable of pulses and oscillation or square waves. The Moog via control voltage introduced a sawtooth wave similar to an LFO but not. Kinda creating some pulse width modulation.

Or whatever.

I'll scrounge around and find some kinda case to put it in. A dolls head us a popular one but I nuh got dat.

An animal skull?

I've two cats on hand.

How about a die cast model car.  Like a 53 chevy.  Or a 65 gto. It'd probably need to be like 1/18 scale, larger than a typical hot wheels. Jacks drilled into the trunk, knobs on the top and hood.

Probably not those but I do have several VW toys and stuff. Hmmmm. I'll look around.

Yeah that'd be cool. A Tonka truck might be fun too, not that you'd have one lying around.

I actually gave a Tonka RV around someplace cuz ya know RV's.

Oh yeah. Made one of these up for a friend. Been making and using something like this for about 15 years. Use to think I needed to keep it quiet cuz I never see anybody making anything like it but it's so stupid simple that eh whatever....

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230122/c09244fd267025829c250adf53703632.jpg)


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That's cool.  See if one sells on the auction site.  Might be your ticket out of here.

The first couple I pulled the guts out of a multimeter, stuck it on ohms and rehoused it in a project box with a mono jack attached to it janky like. But you needed a speaker cable. I'd go look at speaker cabs off CL and whip this thing outta my pocket behind the cab and check it. Guy would go "hey what's that?"  Oh I just checked it with a meter I'd say. "Oh ok."

Sneaky.

Eventually I just soldered the jack on the leads when I came across cheapo but built seemingly sturdy meters. And here we are.

Played my first show in Star Viper's first show on keys last night. Had a blast. Broke through the extreme stage fright and nerves and now super pumped for the next one!

Rad dude. Sometimes I miss my playing live.I just don't miss all the other shit involved   

I remember plenty of times being nervous and cursing myself for writing difficult to play odd time riffs. 'Why can't you just play normal?'

Quote from: socket on April 03, 2023, 01:30:11 PMPlayed my first show in Star Viper's first show on keys last night. Had a blast. Broke through the extreme stage fright and nerves and now super pumped for the next one!

hell yeah!! post pics.

Quote from: mortlock on April 04, 2023, 07:34:16 PM

Quote from: socket on April 03, 2023, 01:30:11 PMPlayed my first show in Star Viper's first show on keys last night. Had a blast. Broke through the extreme stage fright and nerves and now super pumped for the next one!

hell yeah!! post pics.

Moving pics:

https://youtu.be/g2nJHM5SVgc

since im in rochester and youre in pittsburgh, im thinking we need to play a show together this summer.

Custom tremolo for Mike from Flametrick Subs

Based on the EA Tremolo from GeneralGuitarGadgets (Fender tremolo emulator) with a toggle switch to also use it as a clean boost

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230420/36d0614822af3c93ffc3ee2c922e7a6c.jpg)


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That's cool!

I'm putting my 1975 Jazz bass back together as is.  

Long story on this one, but it's one I bought off the internet about 15 years ago.  It was black, maple neck with block pearloid inlay.  The neck is yellow as fuck, almost red now on the headstock.  It had been painted and the paint never cured.  So much so, that the case stuck to the body when I opened it.  It would always do this.  I think it was in a really humid swampy environment where the dude lived in Florida. The electronics were shot.  Bridge rusty, hardware corroded.  I put DiMarzio model J's in it. Added a Badass bridge.  No idea where the old one is.  

Finally i scraped the finish off down to the wood.  I had intended to have it painted mocha brown, but having it done would probably cost $800 now.  So instead it's going back together without paint. As is. Honest.  It's still got most of the sanding sealer on it, so it feels good.  

I'll get some pics. 

(https://i.ibb.co/rF33Lc5/IMG-2434.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rF33Lc5)(https://i.ibb.co/frpKTfC/IMG-2435.jpg) (https://ibb.co/frpKTfC)(https://i.ibb.co/kqMt0Sw/IMG-2436.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kqMt0Sw)

Tab rusted off of that front volume pot.  I think I have a 250k around here.  I thought I changed these out back then, but these look hella old. 

(https://i.ibb.co/1zT43Ym/IMG-2437.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1zT43Ym)

double

Quote from: Muffin Man on April 21, 2023, 04:32:17 AMthose inlays look like butterscotch candy. I wonder if that neck is original the tuners and pegs, nut, whatnot. Glad it's not mocha for the time being just to see it as is Backguard Tele baby! Yeah that near pot is hilarious - keep it for posterity!

nice clean shop. nice 12 string D shape.

Pretty sure it's the original neck and tuners. 

That section of the shop in the pic is misleading.  Shop is a wreck. It's where I do the ebay selling, so there's boxes strewn about.  

The 6 string acoustic is really a gem.  A Yamaha department store guitar that was $100 used and it sounds and plays awesome.  The 12 string sounds great too, but i don't play it much because its just a bitch tuning 12 strings.  

to be continued

Doing a little research it looks like it's an early 1975 with those pots (CTS) dating to the 51st week of 1974.  The 4 bolt neck is not common among 1975 models, but not unheard of.  They transitioned to 3 bolt necks with the micro-adjust hole in 75, but used up the parts from the previous design while they made the transition.  The heel adjustment truss rod is also indicative of early 1975, making the transition to the bullet adjustment at the headstock at the same time.  

The serial on the neck plate is 648716 which also is 1975 according to the internet. 

I bought it back then because I like Jazz Basses and it's the year I was born.  Possibly the same month, January. 

It's ALIVE!!!!


(https://i.ibb.co/tzhG8Wv/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzhG8Wv)

I'll need to intonate it. Set the action etc... but it plays great and sounds great.  Neck feels really smooth to hold and slide on.  

Quote from: Pissy on April 21, 2023, 05:02:34 PMIt's ALIVE!!!!


(https://i.ibb.co/tzhG8Wv/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzhG8Wv)

I'll need to intonate it. Set the action etc... but it plays great and sounds great.  Neck feels really smooth to hold and slide on. 

wow, nice! Cool history on your J.
Was reading that Leo opened Music Man in 1975.

Putting GFS Mean 90's in my Goldtop Hagstrom.    This guitar has not aged well.  The neck binding  has shrunk and cracked, ultimately what I determined was that it wasn't glued on very well.  Not enough glue.  When I peeled it back to re-glue it the finish was compromised.  I put it all back, but it's ugly.  

So I've moved the switch to the lower horn, this guitar had a separate tone coloring switch that I planned on removing before I bought it.   The hole left over I plugged with a grommet. 

I'm in the middle of replacing the nut on it with bone.  I sanded off too much length the last time and now it's wonky. 

But at the moment it's set up well otherwise and is my only P90 guitar.  I set the pickups as close to the strings as I dared.  I never realized how crucial the pickup height was for P 90's.  This thing goes from trash to treasure in about 1/16" of height closer to the strings.  

(https://i.ibb.co/WBJFbXZ/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WBJFbXZ)(https://i.ibb.co/sWDYvZ0/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sWDYvZ0)

Sweet gold top. I've never had a P90 guitar for some damn reason.

I hadn't had one in quite a long time.   i had a Univox HiFlier (70's Japanese mosrite ventures copy).  I took a buddy of mine to some dudes house to buy weed. While we're in his basement, the guitar was in the corner.  I picked it up, played a riff and he told me he'd never seen that guitar make any music at all.  Sold it to me for $100. 

At the time I didn't care for the look of it.  

(https://images.reverb.com/image/upload/s--PEMpiedm--/f_auto,t_large/v1659536475/inog7uswjrkgg92sp7xp.png)

Like this exactly. 


I was into pointy headstocks.  But it played and sounded awesome.  So i robbed the pickup out of it, put it in a pointy headstock Memphis. Funny thing, it didn't sound great until I moved the rest of the electronics.  


Years later I found some p90's to put back in it.  I had saved the switch, new pots I think. Got it working and I gave it to my good friend's son.  He was like 16 and wanted to learn to play.   That kid is now in his mid-late 20's and making tons of music.  He's into gaze post-rock type stuff.  I'm told he uses that guitar as his #1.  Pretty cool.  

So it was around 12 years ago when I last had a p90 guitar.   

This goldtop is setup well now. Fixed the nut, polished the frets, pickup height, neck relief, action... it's in good form, and sounds great!


Working on a Jay Turser resonator now.  It was given to me.  Trying to find buzz on one of these things is next to impossible.  And this one has a piezo pickup under the saddle, so in order to adjust the tension on the cone, i need to take it apart. Like 75% dismantling. 

Also, gfs has those kwikplug things on their pickups now so you could get a set of these, put them in something you have lying around and swap out with other gfs pickups super easily if you don't like, and/or use it as a test platform.  I'm sure that's what they were thinking people might do by putting that plug on them. 

The input jack on the 79 Iceman was getting fucky so I bought a replacement and quick-installed before leaving on a weekend run of shows.

The new jack didn't have a long enough shaft (hahaha) for the nut to even thread. Fuck.

Swapped it out for the old fucky one and held my breath.

The old fucky one performed flawlessly all weekend. Go figure


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Quote from: Danny G on January 10, 2023, 07:37:37 PMI tried adding a chrome cover to a pickup years back and couldn't get it to *not* squeal until I wax potted it


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So i found the squeal.  Since removing the pickups on a semi-hollow is a bitch I devised a way to pot them without removing them. 

The covers can slip off pretty easily, so I removed the rings, slipped the cover off, left the pickup dangling but pulled out enough to flip onto the body. 

Then I covered the pole piece holes in the covers on the outside with a piece of tape.  Melted paraffin with a heat gun dripping into the inside of the pickup cover until there was about 1/4" of pooled up liquid wax in there.  Then gingerly transported the cover to the waiting pickup that was flopped over onto a towel.  Mated the two until it was seated.  I could see the wax pushing out of the assembly.

Maybe the YouTube's already outlined this method.  Not sure.

But it worked!  No more squeal!   

Now I need to do it to the newest addition to my stable.  Bridge pickup is microphonic

(https://i.imgur.com/GLLGVxa.jpg)

Kinda music related but definitely jam room related. As in MY jam room.

Been doing some spring cleaning and refreshing some stuff so I thought I'd totally rearrange my main jam room where the big amps and drums are while making room for some actual storage of stuff too.

The water heater is down there too. Yep. Maybe bed stuff out of the way and there's water around the base of it. Fuuuuck. All jam room set up halted. By some numbers on the damn thing I put it being installed in 1980. Good run for the thing. I might've been like this for a while. Good thing I saw it. Could've be a catastrophic loss.

Typing this while I'm waiting for it to drain into an 18 qt Cambro lol.

It also has ancient plumbing that's hard plumbed. No flex stuff so I have to upgrade that. Luckily I've got the proper breakers so power should be good.

So yeah,  I'll be wrestling with big pipe wrenches or I'll just bust out the compressor and a dip wheel. Dunno.

Good times.

I have 3 generations of pressured pipes in this house.  Galvanized, pvc and Pex. There's one main line of galvanized that goes the length of the house that the master bathroom, the ice maker for the fridge and the washing machine all tap off of.  70% of that pipe is behind the sheet rock that covers the basement ceiling.

If the water isn't run in any of those taps for about 2 days, it runs rusty for about 20 seconds until it clears up.  The most annoying one of those taps is the water out of the fridge.  The ice it makes can get iffy looking, a glass of water can look iffy.  

But the fix is really going to be painful with ceiling sheet rock work.  Sucks.  

Hope your swap out is as painless as possible.  

It went about as expected but it took way longer. Friday is not the day to be running around getting parts and crossing bridges. Everywhere I went it was either traffic or lines at checkout. Although picking up the unit at Lowe's was pain free so I paid for it elsewhere. I did have to use a torch for a couple fittings.

On another note, I'd never looked very closely under the stairs but I found this mounted there. It'll go in the kitchen or garage or maybe still in the basement somewhere as cable management.

(https://i.imgur.com/FgsccUi.jpeg)

Necktie hangers?

Under the basement stairs?  For Harry Potter? 

9/10 accomplished

(https://i.imgur.com/mP2P6Wa.jpg)

That's awesome 

Tremendous

jams at ragers house. lets plan it out.

I can make the 5-6 hour drive. no problem.

I'll make tacos.

tacos jam 2023

Fuck. That's like, a haul. Rager you're in Portland, if I remember correctly?

I'm finally pulling the ~100' of 6ga wire tomorrow to finally have proper power in the converted barn. Then I'll be drywalling, and then the fun part, setting everything up, can begin.

6ga.? Whoa. Been reading up on grounding and wiring the hifi. Also have links to fancy power box panels, trip panels, Probably move to a new house to do this in whole though, plus the whole house water filtration like James's. I'm big into wires and good wires, love the wires! James, please keep us posted.

Yeah. I'm pulling a 70A service. I looked at the bundle of wires this morning and it's actually 3@4ga and 1@6. Going into a 2" conduit buried 16" deep. There will be 4 individual 20A legs in the barn. Each leg feeds a wall, 3 2 gang boxes on each for a total of 12 outlets on each wall (I will never not have a plug to use), 2 220a drops, one for the table saw, one for my dust collector. Then a run for lighting. My cool-ass neighbor who was an electrician for 15 years, and is now an electrical engineer is charging me a home cooked pizza and a case of cheap beer every day he works on it, so that's awesome.

The goal with the space is to have a full woodshop, with every big tool on wheels. So that I can slide the table saw under my main workbench, the band saw into the corner, the planer and jointer cart can tuck next to that, then the amps and drums can come out of the sealed closet, and I can also live track jams and writing sessions. It'll probably take a year until that is a reality. It's taken 2 years to get to this point, in that time I've rebuiilt 2 walls, made and installed a 10'w x 9'h barn door, installed 2 man doors, framed internal walls, reroofed, poured an 8 yard slab, dug the trench for the conduit, hung halo lights, refurbished a wood burning stove I'm going to install for wintertime heat..... So yeah. Kinda started from a shittily built outbuilding and now it's ready to fill out with all the fun stuff.

Wow, what a build-out, James1214. I see that kinda stuff in magazines and dream of doing what you're doing - it's inspiring. Having an neighbor electrician is pretty huge! Good luck with the wood shop in the years ahead.

Yeah, the neighbor situation is definitely a big help  I have no issue with running basic circuits of outlets, but 3 way lighting is beyond me, and hooking up a 70A service is mildly terrifying.

Honestly, It'll be nice to just have a place for all the gear for creation of all types in one place. After living out of tiny garages and spaces I couldn't build out properly because I was a renter it's pretty awesome to not have to ask anyone's permission, unfortunately, because I'm doing 99% of the work myself it has to be done in my very rare free time.

The goal is to have the woodshop, all of my art stuff, the digital fabrication stuff (3d printers and laser cutter) and the amps, drums, and recording setup all coexisting in one place. I equate my vision for it to a transformer, with the ability to rapidly turn the space into what I need to fulfill the creative drive I have at that time, no matter what that is. It's not an enormous space at around 600 square feet, but I'll make it work for my needs. The big thing for me is purging everything except he essential stuff, so as to foster the creation. Outside the main body of the barn were also building a material storage area for all my work stuff, and a greenhouse for the wife, which will have a door directly into the garden. Then there's another area on the other side for all the camping gear, holiday decorations, and other random semi-deep but totally doesn't need to be in the house storage. I'll take some photos when the drywall is all done in the next week or 2. Then it'll really get exciting.

That sounds awesome.  Hope it comes to fruition before you're old enough to not want to do all that stuff. 

Haha, I hope it doesn't take that long. If it's not done by the time I turn 40 im giving up. And that gives me almost 2 more years.

That's a big undertaking James. But sounds like an ideal creative space.

All the outlets are done, running lighting this week. A bunch of dimmable halo LEDs. Then the insulation and drywall can begin. Plugging along nicely. Trying to bang out the electrical as quickly as my buddy ass schedule well allow, ask I can get this big ol' stack of material (drywall and plywood) out of the middle of the floor.

Pondering paint color, I think I may go with charcoal walls.....

makes sense, charcoal paint probably gives a good backdrop for the disco mirror-ball. Then your live cast would have pop.

Another thought - wire in some boundary mics to record the room. Run the wires to a panel.

example. these were just announced. No affiliation.
https://gearspace.com/board/new-product-alert/1406752-introducing-pac-116-boundary-microphone-teegarden-audio.html?highlight=boundary+mics#post16550758

Quote from: Muffin Man on June 11, 2023, 08:42:22 PMmakes sense, charcoal paint probably gives a good backdrop for the disco mirror-ball. Then your live cast would have pop.

Another thought - wire in some boundary mics to record the room. Run the wires to a panel.

example. these were just announced. No affiliation.
https://gearspace.com/board/new-product-alert/1406752-introducing-pac-116-boundary-microphone-teegarden-audio.html?highlight=boundary+mics#post16550758

That's a great idea. On the cheaper side you could just mount a couple 57's in the corners with afros cuz you're gonna be wood working. Great for capturing jams if you've swapped over and didn't mic up.

Also if you wanted to include some ambient room sounds for wood shop videos.

Way back before I bought an H4 I mounted 2 57's in the room to a Realistic tape deck for jams.

Since there'll be a computer hooked up anyway for the 3d printers (yeah, I have too many damn hobbies) I'll have a cabinet below with my interface and a snake, so putting up mics wont be a huge hassle. I plan on having mics already mounted on everything except the drums, so I'll wheel out cabs, plug shit in and be ready to go. That said, some 57's in the room, for a simple stereo setup would be pretty sweet, and I have a bunch kicking around, so maybe a semi-permanent install is in order.