What are YOU up to, DIY/projectwise? Ask for help?

[jibberish]

I see.    wonder what the ideal compromise point is, although, it could be multistory inside.  or be spacious if material cost isn't too crazy.  $400k houses all have huge wasted spaces, but..... heh.

[mutantcolors]

I could easily do multistory. Could drop one o' them there columns into an upper floor, shit would get wild in a hurry. Ooh, actually there's your lateral stability, from the floor diaphragm. Interesting...

[spookstrickland]

I tried the bicycle link method of pedal mounting and before the cheap as chain breaker I got from Fredy's broke it was going good.  I drilled holes on the bottom plate of my big muff and bolted them on and now for once my big muff is not going anywhere.

[the diddler]

into the realm of thrust

[mutantcolors]

'Tis me new band name 

[jibberish]

hah!

hey , this is how those houses will get built after the rebar frame is in place

http://www.gizmag.com/flying-3d-printer-robot/31975/

folks, the future will get ugly as people exploit remote/intelligent device technology. my twisted mind has come up with a few nefarious ideas, so the real freaks are probably way ahead.   the self replicating micro-machine to kill an entire city is the one I like, then it cant be stopped and we have a science fiction story come to life.

edit: hey, they have a robot to put the rebar in place too haha
http://www.gizmag.com/3d-metal-printing-robot/30938/

edit: we need a big pile of money.  who wants to call bill gates up?

[mutantcolors]

I know of some brick constructions that were assembled with a robotic arm and my prof and I talked about doing it with a mini helicopter as well, all you need is the coordinate information.

There are some buildings I know of which had all the concrete effectively 3D printed.

[Corey Y]

I'm pricing out all the materials right now to build a sealed 4x15" bass cab. Similar to/partially inspired by Al Cisneros' big green cabs, though I picked a driver and designed everything from scratch around them. It's going to be 30.5"w x 52"h x 16"d, two staggered 2x15 chambers with a shelf between the top and bottom, loaded with Eminence Legend CA154 drivers, wired to make it 4 ohm. The reason I'm making the cab is to have something large enough to sit under the new 300W KT88 powered Dunwich amp that Nick is making me. It's going to be about 28" wide, so having an ample width was a big design priority. I am still considering how I want to work out casters and if I want the back sealed and the speakers front loaded w/ a removable grill frame or a removable baffle and back panel with the speakers rear loaded.

Here's the basic layout I worked up.



It's going to be made with 3/4" Russian Birch ("Baltic Birch") and covered in black Duratex, with a black woven grill cloth and black hardware. Stealthy...no one will notice the giant cab on stage.

[mutantcolors]

Your drawing indicates 2 plies of 3/4. Heavy.

[Jake]

I'm guessing that's just the front lip/baffle mount, ya?

As far as your cab options, I was thinking to myself just the other day that front loaded (back sealed) cabinets are probably sturdier than removable back ones. I'm sure that when the back is on, they're pretty much the same, but it's just the impression that I have. Also, I'm thinking that most bass cabs are made this way.

For casters, I have this type of wheel on the back end of my Atlas 6x12, and it's awesome. Very good stability and ease of transport. Simpler and equally as effective as the beveled panel on a 8x10 fridge.


http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/511-2290/c800/3--Narrow-Edge-Mount-Caster.html

Works great with this type of handle on the top rear. Altas also include traditional recessed handles on the sides.


http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/500-236/c900/Edge-Mount-Handle.html

[Corey Y]

Your drawing indicates 2 plies of 3/4. Heavy.

I'm guessing that's just the front lip/baffle mount, ya?

Yeah, the second layer of .75" shown is just the lip for the baffle mount or the frame for a removable front grille. Could be either, depending on the way I go with it, just wanted to make sure I had enough clearance for the drivers with a .25" margin all the way around when I was laying it out.

[RacerX]

Impressive!

I'm just repainting the inside of the house. 

[Corey Y]

Impressive!

I'm just repainting the inside of the house. 

Thanks. I need to do that too. I replaced all the baseboard in the house and still haven't spackled/caulked and painted it yet.

[jibberish]

I found 8 ohm 20watt resistors at radio shaft. I can make a down-and-dirty dummy load with one of these stuck onto a 1/4" jack

edit: if you ever wanted to split that giant cab in half, just keep the proportionate volume the same. ie both small cabs together = same volume as whole large cab. then it wont sound any different.

[VOLVO)))]

I wouldn't recommend that. They would get wicked hot.

[VOLVO)))]

Agh, copper sheeting is wicked fuckin' expensive. Plan B, what else can I use to make this pickguard something special? I could stencil something on it, but then that's just kind of half-assed, I want something extravagant like the tooled leather on my other tele...

[RacerX]

Agh, copper sheeting is wicked fuckin' expensive. Plan B, what else can I use to make this pickguard something special? I could stencil something on it, but then that's just kind of half-assed, I want something extravagant like the tooled leather on my other tele...

Have you thought of wood? Something burly (in the literal sense), perhaps?

[VOLVO)))]

Agh, copper sheeting is wicked fuckin' expensive. Plan B, what else can I use to make this pickguard something special? I could stencil something on it, but then that's just kind of half-assed, I want something extravagant like the tooled leather on my other tele...

Have you thought of wood? Something burly (in the literal sense), perhaps?

I have, and I have an abundance of such, but I don't think it's going to be what I'm truly after. I suppose I could use steel, but that's going to be a bitch to cut and shape properly.



I can do that, pretty easily, I just think I'm going to have to bite it and buy some copper : \

[Mr. Foxen]

Use blank PCB, thin layer of copper gives the look, works like plastic.

[jibberish]

you can put super intricate stuff onto PCB's. I think basically whatever a laser printer can print as the mask. so photos could be done even. fwiw.

i modded that pharaoh box 10 minutes after i got it. damn right. 4 little sticky feet so it doesn't fuck up the table. BAM.   seriously, i am not even looking inside of it out of respect.
------------------------------------------------------

hey sunno, that 20watt resistor is to shut my stupid greta up. it has a 12au wtf that maxxes at 2 watts, so i have 10x dissipation headroom.  the problem is that they just whupped that combo together as a big kid's toy. it has a pre out, pre in, guitar in, ext speaker out, annnd it's own speaker.  the problem is, the speaker still plays when other outputs are being used. i guess they wanted to bulletproof the thing by always having the output attached to a speaker no exceptions.

except fuck that tincan speaker, especially when actually trying to get tone and richness. the mic will pick that shit up when using pre out to something else and that little speaker is quite efficient with its little mids. SO.  actually, a 1/4" jack is no good. i have to intercept the speaker wires inside, so i guess i will put the resistor inside and actually mangle the chassis somwhow for a switch.
that greta drives an SS combo amp nicely

regarding a bigger amp, that's why i asked about pulling the power tubes out of it. i figured why waste the tubes/the power/make heat for no good reason if i want the amp quiet for its pre, as a preferred solution to my problem.

did that all make sense? heh..the greta is not a normal amp, that's the real weirdness factor here

[VOLVO)))]

What's the count as using two of those with some decent speakers attached as a home audio setup?

[jibberish]

you could. they are actually pretty quiet in the noise floor department.  tubes are really warm and rich. i would try that through nice speakers for sure to see. i think it's worth the experiment actually. any pair of tube amps that you can get the tone out of the path and get as close to straight through as possible.

you just have to stop the volume when it starts to break up. but at least it wont be harsh SS crap or worse digital, i guess go for super high gain to get louder cleaner, but idk, you risk noise floor problems..have to play...

another thing to help the sound of this new stereo is to try to match th einput impedance as closely as possible and prepare to buffer to adjust the impedance. all your tone is right there. the maximum power transfer theory is based on identical input and output impedances. fortunately, op-amp buffers are very cheap and easy to make and most importantly set the impedance on either end to whatever you want.

edit: example maybe a cd player line level is 10k(idk, im throwing numbers). you plug into th ehi-z guitar pickup optimized input which is looking for 100k. this will strangle the tone of th eoriginal material from th ecd due to huge mismatch and blocking of full power transfer. a 10k in, 100k out buffer would grease the wheels
trhe real problem is high impedance trying to feed lower impedance. there is no current drive....sounds bad...

[spookstrickland]

The tone pot in my big muff took a dump on me so I put a new pot in.  I used a 50k instead of the 100k and it sounds a little fuller and less scooped.  I'm digging it.

[everdrone]

electric amps makes a 415  http://www.greenamps.com/catalog.html

maybe get neo speakers at 8 pounds each: http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-deltalite-ii-2515-neo-15-speaker-driver--290-595?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla 

[moose23]

You might be waiting forever for an Electric cab.