What's on your workbench?

[Ayek]

She's being put to good work as my main amp. When I had it open I just cleaned the 30 odd years worth of dust that was in there and replaced a couple of the power valve sockets. It needs a re-cap preferably sooner than later, but I had issues trying to source the multi-value filter caps. I need to ring one of the local gurus to see if he can help source them. He's a good dude. I lost the bit of paper that I wrote on, so I'll have to open the beast up again. Might replace the other two valve sockets then, too. They're no where near as solid feeling as the new ones I put in.

[Hemisaurus]

She's being put to good work as my main amp. When I had it open I just cleaned the 30 odd years worth of dust that was in there and replaced a couple of the power valve sockets. It needs a re-cap preferably sooner than later, but I had issues trying to source the multi-value filter caps. I need to ring one of the local gurus to see if he can help source them. He's a good dude. I lost the bit of paper that I wrote on, so I'll have to open the beast up again. Might replace the other two valve sockets then, too. They're no where near as solid feeling as the new ones I put in.

Weber do cap cans, as do JJ, but I recall there was some space in that chassis. I've replaced cap-cans, with regular caps. You just get a couple of small bits of tagboard, and the cap values you need and, if there's space just snip the leads from the cap can, and solder the new caps over where the capcan is, I sometimes leave the capcan in place, with it's leads snipped off, rather than have the hole in the chassis.

All you need to remember is the capcan has a common ground, so solder all the negatives of the replacement electrolytics together.



Borrowed these images from an instructable, this is not my soldering I generally use axial caps and two small tagboards.

Hope this helps

[Ayek]

^I tell you what, I think I'll follow that path. Part of me wants to keep in nice, but that went out the door after somehow I bent the faceplate slightly and broke off one of the cord wrap dealies on the back (I'm blaming earthquakes). I had spent fucking ages a while back googling all over the show trying to find cap-cans of the right values, so yeah. There is plenty of room to do such a thing. You're not just a pretty face after all. Cheers.

[VOLVO)))]

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[dunwichamps]

this



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this

[mutantcolors]

Man yo shit lookin wicked baller tight.

Ihsahn from Emperor did a little instuctional vid series called left hand path, probably no relation right?

[dunwichamps]

Man yo shit lookin wicked baller tight.

Ihsahn from Emperor did a little instuctional vid series called left hand path, probably no relation right?

no relation, its actually a hm-2 clone thing

[VOLVO)))]

Give me that pedal. GIVE ME IT. Seriously, HM-2 with a mid knob? Sign me up. Any way to boost the output?

[dunwichamps]

Give me that pedal. GIVE ME IT. Seriously, HM-2 with a mid knob? Sign me up. Any way to boost the output?

just increase op amp gain on last stage, im offering them as kits you can buy from me, soon with pics of a build and potential mods and add ons

[VOLVO)))]

Do want. My gripe with the HM-2 is lacking overall volume, even all dimed out. If I leave the mid knob noon'd, or whatever's flat, would I still get the same dimed out HM-2 sound? BUZZSAW SWEDISH DM TONE. Holler when you get a sound clip. I'd rather buy one of your kits than a BYOC dealio.

[dunwichamps]

Do want. My gripe with the HM-2 is lacking overall volume, even all dimed out. If I leave the mid knob noon'd, or whatever's flat, would I still get the same dimed out HM-2 sound? BUZZSAW SWEDISH DM TONE. Holler when you get a sound clip. I'd rather buy one of your kits than a BYOC dealio.

in the originals the mid/treble EQ are tied together and sent to treble knob so if you build a stock unit + mid control then just move both treble and mids together for original sound.

You simply increase the 3.3k resistor in the feedback loop of the last op amp to get more output.

However if you were more adventurous i would kick the mids down to 700-750 hz with a lil change in the caps. This is a better mid point, The treble range is not super high in the pedal, its setup for 2 khz.

i will have 32 kits @ 70 or so bucks i think, screened and pre drilled by muah

[Lumpy]

i will have 32 kits @ 70 or so bucks i think, screened and pre drilled by muah

Great price for a kit with a box that's already painted and ready to go.

[dunwichamps]

i will have 32 kits @ 70 or so bucks i think, screened and pre drilled by muah

Great price for a kit with a box that's already painted and ready to go.

yea i thought so, only thing im not including is wire and stand offs. Everything else is there

[moose23]

Fuck it, I might have to grab one of those of ya. I keep meaning to build a stripped down version with no eq section, just for kicks.

[bass sic]

Put me down for a kit right now. I'm definetly in.

[dunwichamps]

Put me down for a kit right now. I'm definetly in.

ill let people know when its ready, how much the final cost will be and what not.

I have to get the screening setup first so until I get to that point I wont have much specifics.

[The Shocker]

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Where are the guitars?

[VOLVO)))]

Last night was amp night! They were in the office on the couch.

[dunwichamps]

Last night was amp night! They were in the office on the couch.

everynight is amp night, dont think otherwise

[VOLVO)))]

Today was drum day! Tonight is gun night!

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