Stripped screws, argh. Can it be saved?

[Instant Dan]

I picked up a mid 80's Burny RLG50 Supergrade the other day and she is a beauty. The problem is the guy who owned it before me was a dick to this guitar and tightened the screws to the point of breaking and are rusting badly. He also ended stripping the screws on the back plate where the electronics are and I can not get to them no matter what and I rather not drill on it.

Can she still be saved? Would like to think I didn't throw $600 down the drain.

[mortlock]

i think you might have to drill..it sucks but it may be necessary..

[Ayek]

If the wood is stripped, you can usually break off a bit of toothpick or something in there and the screw will hold. The backplate isn't a heavy object that would put strain on it, so you oughta be alright.

[Hemisaurus]

If you don't want to drill it you could put a chisel through the back cover, snap off the remainder with pliers, so you can get to the screw heads, and take them out with a small pair of vice grips 

Or you can drill the heads of the screws, and, if you are careful, not damage the back plate, and then unscrew the stumps with the vice grips.

There's a third alternative, but not everyone has a flamethrower

[Instant Dan]

I would do that if I could get the screws off. All I know is it's a bad sign when the screws for the input jack and backplate cover for the toggle switch are tighter than a virgin.

[bass sic]

Tell you what, send it to me and Ill fix it for you. Ill even pay shipping. How bout pics of that Burny? And how does it play?

[Instant Dan]

I think I am going to take her to teh tech tomorrow and have him diagnose her. Hope it isn't serious, she is too pretty and got her for a sweet deal.

[Instant Dan]

Otherwise she sounds and plays amazing. The guy put a Super Distortion in the bridge and Burstbucker 1 in the neck. I might eventually take out the SD and get put in a BB2.

[spookstrickland]

One last trick you might try.  Go the auto parts store and get some "valve lapping compound"  it's this pasty abrasive stuff.  Put a little bit of that on the head of the screw.  This will some times give you just enough traction on a stripped out screw to break it loose.

[VOLVO)))]

FUCK taking it to a tech. You have hands, right? There is no reason to pay some goofy asshole to do the same thing you can do with your own hands. A control cavity cover is fucking pathetic easy to make, if it gets messed up. Take a chisel to the screw heads, pop 'em off, pull off the cavity cover, then yank them out with pliers, gently. If the holes are severely stripped, the toothpick method works well, I'd drop a little glue in the hole with it, then redrill the holes.. or, use a slightly larger screw? Long as you're careful and take your time, you won't hurt nothin'.

[Chovie D]

what ^he said

[Ayek]

Sorry, Instant Dan, I thought that you meant you couldn't tighten the back cavity cause they guy had overtightened it to the point of stripping.
You could get some screw extractor bits, which are sort of like a reverse drill bit. As they drill into the head of the screw, they also loosen the screw.

[inductorguitars]

+1 on do it yourself and screw extractor.

[VOLVO)))]

Hahaha screw extractors are WAY easier than the chisel idea. Hahahha

[Chovie D]

screw extractors, at least the ancient kind i used to use tend to be difficult on small screws, but maybe this new fangled version is better? I think i used to tap em with a tap and die set and then use a reverse? or maybe I tapped em with a reverse thread? its been years.

lemme know if that thing works on those small screws, now Im curious.

[bloodofkings]

The newer screw extractors work much better than the Easy Out tools. Ever try to drill a boogered up #8-32? It was a pain in the ass last time I had to do it at work. I had a similar thing with a bass I picked up recently. Stopped by Sears and got the screw extractor bits there. Think they were less than $15, they worked great.

[Instant Dan]

Well it didn't help I found a crack in the neck as well. I am glad I only paid $600 instead of $800 or $900 for one of them.

[bloodofkings]

Ah man, bummer. She sure is purty too.

[VOLVO)))]

Is it just a finish crack? If its one that can be spread, spread it, shoot it with titebond II, then clamp it. Or send it here and ill hook it up. Hahaha.

[Instant Dan]

An update.

Finally just had time to calm down this week after literally getting off the plane from NYC and going to work. The crack in the neck looks like a paint crack. Anyway of telling so, for sure? Finally got the screws out using the screw extractor method, thanks, and one of the guys who owned it before me did put in 50's wiring.

Can't tell if it is the Gibson reissue bumblebee caps, if so, that guy threw money down the toilet.

I forgot I had a Rio Grande BBQ in nickel lying around. Going to take out the Super Distortion and put in the BBQ. I know someone who will want the SD for a good price.

[VOLVO)))]

If it spreads, and you see wood... It's not just a finish crack. Finish cracks are super common, for one to be present that neck HAD to have undergone some sort of pressure, at least enough to crack the clear. You see them commonly at the neck joints on boltys. It could just be substandard finish, of course. Shit cracks over time, in that case. Another scenario could be that it lived in a humid climate, plenty of moisture was allowed to come in contact with it, then it moved to a not-so-humid climate, and it shrunk the wood a bit, causing a crack.

[Instant Dan]

I think it is a finish crack. I know it went from a dry and hot climate (Phoenix) to a humid and hot climate (Houston) so that might be the reason for it.

[Jake]

Well, in that case it's ruined. You had better just send it to me to put it out of it's misery. I'll even go halfsies on the shipping.

[bass sic]

Any update on the guitar???

[blackkrosses]

+1 on getting valve lapping compound. I've taken screws out that had virtually no head with that stuff.
Don't sweat a finish crack either.