Billy Gibbons gear

Woody · June 15, 2011, 12:01:56 PM

The Shocker · June 15, 2011, 12:19:53 PM

7 Gauge strings? Damn.

VOLVO))) · June 15, 2011, 12:23:31 PM

There's guitar talk in that video? I am fucking in LOVE with a chick that actually semi-knows what the fuck she is talking about when it comes to guitar. I had the pleasure of dating a chick guitar player/tech, and we sat around for HOURS and talked about guitars, and our different methods... our biggest argument ever was over the use of superglue in guitar repair. She was attractive to boot, I miss her. She calls me every now and then for advice.

justinhedrick · June 15, 2011, 12:32:41 PM

what's wrong with super glue?

VOLVO))) · June 15, 2011, 12:35:55 PM

Weak, brittle, and has no place on a structural repair, on any instrument. Dan Erlewine says otherwise, but I wholly disagree.

She said she did neck repairs with it. I almost exploded on her...

I did later, but in a different fashion, but still.

justinhedrick · June 15, 2011, 12:39:53 PM

Quote from: SunnO))) on June 15, 2011, 12:35:55 PM
Weak, brittle, and has no place on a structural repair, on any instrument. Dan Erlewine says otherwise, but I wholly disagree.

She said she did neck repairs with it. I almost exploded on her...

I did later, but in a different fashion, but still.

ha ha!

neck repairs? REALLY? that's crazy. i could see using it to re-attach binding to a body, or holding in stripped out pickguard screws. or even using it to tack nuts into the slots. but other than that?

Slow · June 15, 2011, 12:41:32 PM

I guess in a pinch, It may be acceptable for one to use superglue, but on a real-for-customer-or-yourself repair, don't fucking short change it. You don't get kickass results by half-assing it. Holding down a nut? different story. Making sure your knobs don't come off your pedals? Go for it. etc. You can also use it as ghetto threadlocker.

Even the binding issue has a special glue. Mind you, binding isn't always bullshit plastic.

Jake · June 16, 2011, 10:23:47 AM

For some reason, Superglue works like shit out here for most things. I dunno. Maybe it's the dryness of everything.

RAGER · June 16, 2011, 11:29:46 AM

i hadn't seen that one yet. it's funny to hear all the cork sniffers argue over what the Rev. uses when it just comes down to JMP 1's with the gain turned all the way up into Eminence speakers. But that Mojave is a badass amp though.

I could never use 7's or 8's fuck

inductorguitars · June 16, 2011, 08:50:55 PM

For a neck/headstock repair superglue? <shudder> Epoxy! FTW. Or maybe titebond III.

As for the co[c|r]k sniffers... Billy used a Blackface Champ for the first 3 albums. And Live sound is not like recording an album.

MikeyT · June 17, 2011, 05:53:08 AM

^ Good info.

Had a '79 Strat & a Blackface Champ in the 90's. It ruled, but the (possibly original?) speaker cone blew.

Ordered a replacement which was supposed to give me the "vintage tone", but it didn't, so I sold the amp. Yeah, stupid. Should have kept searching for the right one.

SunnO))),

Could you give us a list of the proper glues you would use for repairing various parts of guitars ?

justinhedrick · June 17, 2011, 09:11:13 AM

Quote from: inductorguitars on June 16, 2011, 08:50:55 PM
For a neck/headstock repair superglue? <shudder> Epoxy! FTW. Or maybe titebond III.

As for the co[c|r]k sniffers... Billy used a Blackface Champ for the first 3 albums. And Live sound is not like recording an album.

pretty sure it was a harvard amp, but it's almost the same.

MikeyT · June 17, 2011, 09:15:02 AM

Allright, so Billy went to Harvard.

VOLVO))) · June 17, 2011, 09:44:28 AM

Titebond III is a little bit overkill, Titebond III is ~waterproof~ which isn't necessary.

Titebond II is where it's at for structural repairs on a guitar. Epoxy also leaves a sour taste in my mouth, because of it's drying properties (not to mention the smell.) I'm assuming you're speaking of two-part adhesive/hardener epoxy. It's also a really brittle glue. Titebond II, hell, even Elmer's wood glue make better candidates because they don't dry ROCK-FUCKING-HARD. There needs to be a little flex in every part of the neck. It's wood, it shrinks and expands based on humidity, it bends when you pull on it, etc. Every time it's bent, expands or shrinks, that glue joint that was repaired with epoxy or superglue gets a little weaker, ultimately leading to headstock/neck failure part II. Titebond II and Elmers dry somewhat hard, but are still flexible when dry. It also will never hurt or damage anything if you don't wipe all of the squeeze out. You have to sand out epoxy and cynoacrylic glue. Wood glue and the alike, you can pick off with a fingernail.

Ok, that was all really fucking boring, sorry for typing all of that oot.

Woody · June 17, 2011, 11:15:31 AM

Quote from: SunnO))) on June 17, 2011, 09:44:28 AM

Ok, that was all really fucking boring, sorry for typing all of that oot.

You can redeem yourself with some stories about exploding on the female guitar tech.

MikeyT · June 17, 2011, 11:41:53 AM

Quote from: SunnO))) on June 17, 2011, 09:44:28 AM
Titebond III is a little bit overkill, Titebond III is ~waterproof~ which isn't necessary.

Titebond II is where it's at for structural repairs on a guitar. Epoxy also leaves a sour taste in my mouth, because of it's drying properties (not to mention the smell.) I'm assuming you're speaking of two-part adhesive/hardener epoxy. It's also a really brittle glue. Titebond II, hell, even Elmer's wood glue make better candidates because they don't dry ROCK-FUCKING-HARD. There needs to be a little flex in every part of the neck. It's wood, it shrinks and expands based on humidity, it bends when you pull on it, etc. Every time it's bent, expands or shrinks, that glue joint that was repaired with epoxy or superglue gets a little weaker, ultimately leading to headstock/neck failure part II. Titebond II and Elmers dry somewhat hard, but are still flexible when dry. It also will never hurt or damage anything if you don't wipe all of the squeeze out. You have to sand out epoxy and cynoacrylic glue. Wood glue and the alike, you can pick off with a fingernail.

Ok, that was all really fucking boring, sorry for typing all of that oot.

No, dude, we need to know. Much appreciated.

The Shocker · June 17, 2011, 11:58:13 AM

Quote from: SunnO))) on June 17, 2011, 09:44:28 AM
Titebond III is a little bit overkill, Titebond III is ~waterproof~ which isn't necessary.

Titebond II is where it's at for structural repairs on a guitar. Epoxy also leaves a sour taste in my mouth, because of it's drying properties (not to mention the smell.) I'm assuming you're speaking of two-part adhesive/hardener epoxy. It's also a really brittle glue. Titebond II, hell, even Elmer's wood glue make better candidates because they don't dry ROCK-FUCKING-HARD. There needs to be a little flex in every part of the neck. It's wood, it shrinks and expands based on humidity, it bends when you pull on it, etc. Every time it's bent, expands or shrinks, that glue joint that was repaired with epoxy or superglue gets a little weaker, ultimately leading to headstock/neck failure part II. Titebond II and Elmers dry somewhat hard, but are still flexible when dry. It also will never hurt or damage anything if you don't wipe all of the squeeze out. You have to sand out epoxy and cynoacrylic glue. Wood glue and the alike, you can pick off with a fingernail.

Ok, that was all really fucking boring, sorry for typing all of that oot.

I love reading this shit. More tech threads! Hint, hint.

LogicalFrank · June 17, 2011, 12:39:36 PM

Regular Tite-Bond is just fine and so is Elmer's wood glue. I use Tite-bond II just because I couldn't bear the thought of going w/ the cheapest option.

VOLVO))) · June 17, 2011, 02:08:52 PM

Quote from: Woody on June 17, 2011, 11:15:31 AM
Quote from: SunnO))) on June 17, 2011, 09:44:28 AM

Ok, that was all really fucking boring, sorry for typing all of that oot.

You can redeem yourself with some stories about exploding on the female guitar tech.

She was great to have around. She did some of the best fret dressings I've ever seen. She was 23, I was 19. Used to be a charmer... haha.

Anyways, I left out a really important glue. Hide glue! It's the "old-school" way, which is fine by me, I don't use it personally, Titebond (and other technologically advanced glues) just surpass it in almost every category. I'd use hide glue to tack in frets, if I do a full refret. Typically on the trouble ones, though.

justinhedrick · June 17, 2011, 02:12:25 PM

Quote from: SunnO))) on June 17, 2011, 02:08:52 PM
Quote from: Woody on June 17, 2011, 11:15:31 AM
Quote from: SunnO))) on June 17, 2011, 09:44:28 AM

Ok, that was all really fucking boring, sorry for typing all of that oot.

You can redeem yourself with some stories about exploding on the female guitar tech.

She was great to have around. She did some of the best fret dressings I've ever seen. She was 23, I was 19. Used to be a charmer... haha.

Anyways, I left out a really important glue. Hide glue! It's the "old-school" way, which is fine by me, I don't use it personally, Titebond (and other technologically advanced glues) just surpass it in almost every category. I'd use hide glue to tack in frets, if I do a full refret. Typically on the trouble ones, though.

hide glue smells like a holocaust . . .

inductorguitars · June 17, 2011, 03:48:28 PM

Titbond II is hard to find around here. So I just use III for everything.

blackkrosses · June 17, 2011, 06:14:54 PM

What about Gorilla Glue?

Should we just assume that any wood glue that's NOT waterproof would do the job?

inductorguitars · June 17, 2011, 06:31:23 PM

Quote from: blackkrosses on June 17, 2011, 06:14:54 PM
What about Gorilla Glue?

Should we just assume that any wood glue that's NOT waterproof would do the job?

Don't use gorilla glue. Clean up is terrible and it not as brittle as CA but almost.

Edit: waterproof titebond is just a bonus.

VOLVO))) · June 17, 2011, 07:18:23 PM

When I get home, Ill do a better lesson.

blackkrosses · June 17, 2011, 08:07:02 PM

The more you know..
Thanks, fellas.