Rondo lapsteel anybody?

I,Galactus · May 03, 2011, 03:32:02 PM

Pretty damn tempting for $99...

http://www.rondomusic.com/product4230.html

Anybody got any experience with the build quality on these?

Hemisaurus · May 03, 2011, 03:37:35 PM

Does the wishbass style headstock mean no truss-rod?

I really dig the look of that type of headstock.

RacerX · May 03, 2011, 03:38:56 PM

"Build quality"?

It's a single piece of wood! Okay, 2 pieces, but the "fretboard" is only there for reference.

For $99, with a TOM bridge, go for it. If the pickup or electronics suck, you can always upgrade. Tuners, too.

*EDIT* Truss rod? On a lap steel? C'mon, now...

Hemisaurus · May 03, 2011, 03:46:50 PM

Do they do a bass version

I,Galactus · May 03, 2011, 03:48:11 PM

Quote from: RacerX on May 03, 2011, 03:38:56 PM
It's a single piece of wood! Okay, 2 pieces, but the "fretboard" is only there for reference.

Yeah, seems like it'd pretty tough to fuck up.

Quote from: Hemisaurus on May 03, 2011, 03:37:35 PM
Does the wishbass style headstock mean no truss-rod?

Dunno. I know exactly jack and shit about lapsteels, but I'd really like to mess around on one.

No trussrod = intonation troubles?

justinhedrick · May 03, 2011, 03:48:52 PM

i don't want a bass version. i want a 12 string baritone.

any of those?

RacerX · May 03, 2011, 04:00:48 PM

QuoteDunno. I know exactly jack and shit about lapsteels, but I'd really like to mess around on one.

No trussrod = intonation troubles?

Okay, okay, I was being sarcastic. Let me get into helpful mode...

Most lapsteels are fabricated from a single slab of wood. No set neck, no bolt-on neck, and therefore no truss rod needed because no adjustment is possible. Any intonation problems would be addressed at the TOM bridge in that model. My Chandler has a flat bridge, so I have to use a "tempered" tuning to avoid intonation conflicts.

So, in summary, even if you keep only the body, "fretboard" and TOM, that's a good deal for $99. From what I've heard, the GFS P-90s are pretty decent, too.

I,Galactus · May 03, 2011, 04:07:14 PM

Quote from: RacerX on May 03, 2011, 04:00:48 PM
QuoteDunno. I know exactly jack and shit about lapsteels, but I'd really like to mess around on one.

No trussrod = intonation troubles?

Okay, okay, I was being sarcastic. Let me get into helpful mode...

Most lapsteels are fabricated from a single slab of wood. No set neck, no bolt-on neck, and therefore no truss rod needed because no adjustment is possible. Any intonation problems would be addressed at the TOM bridge in that model. My Chandler has a flat bridge, so I have to use a "tempered" tuning to avoid intonation conflicts.

So, in summary, even if you keep only the body, "fretboard" and TOM, that's a good deal for $99. From what I've heard, the GFS P-90s are pretty decent, too.

Word. I appreciate both sarcasm and helpfulness.

Hemisaurus · May 03, 2011, 04:32:35 PM

Sorry, no sarcasm was intended, and you have to realise most of my knowledge of luthiery comes from the bass side of things. Neck-thru basses have truss rods, AFAIK the truss adds re-inforcement to the neck, as well as allowing a bow adjustment. The wishbasses have that special headstock, so that the string tension is pulling straight down and in, rather than forward on a flat paddle style headstock which allows him to construct necks without enough strength to not require a truss rod (or reinforment rods) but the drawback is there is much less adjustment possible of string height.

Honest, it was a genuine question, I thought it looked cool enough to play standing up, I'd have one if I could play it

Chovie D · May 03, 2011, 04:37:43 PM

Id spend another $100 and get an american made Oahu, Magnatone, Silvertone, or National from the 50's.
Im just kinda done buying chinese made anything if I can help it.
I realize its twice what you had in mind to spend. Ive seen magnatones for $150 tho and they scream.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dickerson-model-Magnatone-Lap-steel-guitar-/260778116177?pt=Guitar&hash=item3cb7964451

RacerX · May 03, 2011, 05:58:52 PM

QuoteNeck-thru basses have truss rods, AFAIK the truss adds re-inforcement to the neck, as well as allowing a bow adjustment.

heh. I getcha, but believe me, a square neck that short ain't bowing because of string tension/lack of a truss rod.

Chovie's more knowledgeable than I am here, and as far as resale value goes, I agree with him. However, 99 bux to find out lapsteel isn't for you is cheaper than $200.
Therefore, if you're sure you want to to play it, I agree with Chovie D.

If you're not, a c-note is well worth it to find out.

VOLVO))) · May 03, 2011, 05:59:18 PM

I can make these for about 90 bucks in parts. If I want to use a godly piece of flamed or burl anything, 140 bucks. You can laminate them easy, Walnut/Maple/walnut/purpleheart fretboard. I'd put a strat bridge, or a tele bridge and figure out some kind of roller/bender system that I can Willie rig so I can do pedalsteel-y stuff on it.

Finding steel alternatives is hard, and affording a real steel is hard as balls.

RacerX · May 03, 2011, 06:20:33 PM

QuoteI'd put a strat bridge, or a tele bridge and figure out some kind of roller/bender system that I can Willie rig so I can do pedalsteel-y stuff on it.

The trem tension might not be greater than the pressure of the steel on the strings, which could likely result in a "floating" tuning (the relative tuning of the strings is consistent, but the "frets" will no longer be a reliable reference. Not a big problem if you have a good ear.

VOLVO))) · May 03, 2011, 06:36:16 PM

Nah, you can hard tail those real easy. There's no tension issues. 5 springs will lock damn near any bridge down, with any gauge, in any tuning. No issues there. The bending is the issue, at least the space for the bending unit. I was thinking about a lever that only has a specific amount of play that I can just either knee jerk, or pull it into my hip, or even something I can do with my hand.

It CAN be done. Just requires a little ingenuity.