but anyone know how I'm supposed to open this old peavey 215 cab with tolex stuff all over it? Don't see the seams quite, do I just take off all the metal corners and see if anything falls apart? Need to get in and check/fix the speaker wiring.
Does the grill come off an the speakers front load?
Oh maybe, I was hoping I wouldn't have to take off the grill since there's this big vintage looking blanket thing on it, guess I'll go give that a shot though..
K ya got the front off and looks like I'll be able to unscrew the speakers, this means I'll have to pull them out to check them eh. boo.
You don't need to open it up to check the wiring. If you have a meter and it ohms out at near 4 ohms, it's good. If you hook a 9V battery to a cable running into the jack, and both speakers move in the same direction, either both suck in, or both pop out, they have the correct polarity. Job done.
Next job, play loud bass notes through it, and see if it rattles. ;)
cool ya I did check the tip/sleeve of a patch cord plugged into it before opening it up and got infinite resistance, so after opening and checking to the 1st speaker, i still get infinite when going from one of its leads to the other (tested at the terminal part attached to the speaker, not just the wire.) so this seems like I might want to get this speaker fixed/checked out?
thanks for the responses, yo.
infinite = fried
=[
Hopefully that was just from being old, and not from running a 1/4 inch into it from an ampeg 410hlf which is neutrik'd to an svt4pro bridged mono? Worked fine then just went silent.
You sure it was bridged mono?
SVT-4 is 1200W into 4 ohms, SVT-410HLF is 4 ohm, Peavey 2x15 is also 4 ohm, meaning you had a 2 ohm load, which could fry your amp!
A typical Peavey 2x15 is 300 - 400W at 4 ohm, any way you run it, you're over juicing it with an SVT-4.
Take a 9V battery, and connect it across the speaker terminals, if you hear a pop and the speaker moves, it's alive, no pop, it's dead.
Oh and SVT410HLF is 500W @ 4 ohms, you are also over juicing it. Consider yourself lucky if any of your speakers are still working :-X
QuoteIf you hook a 9V battery to a cable running into the jack
Now how is this done?
Quote from: OUTLANDAH on April 17, 2012, 08:48:36 AM
QuoteIf you hook a 9V battery to a cable running into the jack
Now how is this done?
tip to plus. sleeve to minus
Well ya I am going mono-bridged to the 410hlf, set the cable up for it and everything, I just don't go past like 1/2-o'clock on the master volume when it's going into that alone. I know it's kinda risky, but I did internet searches galore to give myself a reasonable assurance the 410hlf could handle it, long as I don't crank it.
That is alarming about the possibility of 2-ohm load though, I was thinking that since I was just going from the 410hlf to the 215 with one 1/4", they would be in series with eachother and the resistances would add , and end up being something like an unbalanced 8 ohms to the 215 but still 4 ohms to the 410hlf since that's what's bridged into the svt4? Seems like maybe I don't quite get how the resistance carries over from different hookups, though..
Unless expressly stated on the jack plate, assume any pass through jack is going to put the speakers in parallel.
If you have any working speakers left, next time don't run the amp in bridged, the 410HLF will get 490W, which is safe for it. Hook the other output up to the 215 but now you have the cab in bits, redo the wiring (inside the cab) for series, @ 16 ohms it will get about 250-270W which will be safe for it.
Or if you don't want to rewire the cab, make sure the amp is not in bridged, and run the setup the same way as you did before. When not bridged each power amp channel in the amp is 2 ohm capable, and a single power amp delivers 600W into 2 ohms, which is 300W per cabinet, which is safe for both cabs and the amp.