(http://img.tapatalk.com/aefc8329-3ff3-8175.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/aefc8329-4006-a56e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/aefc8329-401d-81ca.jpg)
Did I score? What is it? Premier turns up nothing.
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Schweet! Cast hoops should thicken up/round out the sound nicely. Solid brass shell? Or is it a wrap? I ask 'cause it almost looks like one of their "resonator" (?) shells, that they made with a void between the inner/outer shells. They used those "low contact" lugs to allow both shells to resonate more freely, hence the name.
Whatever it is, it looks great. If it sounds good, it is good.
Quote from: SunnO))) on March 06, 2012, 11:49:53 AM
Did I score? What is it? Premier turns up nothing.
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Looks potentially badass.
I'd say if you got it for a dollar or ten, you scored, but if you paid a few/several hundred you unscored?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Premier_Percussion
Solid brass. Cast hoop, cast lugs. Monster throwoff... 60 bucks. Its like 7-7 1/2 deep! Loud... i dig it. Didnt have the 60 bucks, but couldnt leave it.
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60? Yes, you definitely scored, sir. Congrats on a fine purchase.
Love those lugs, by the way.
Any idea what it is Gabe? It's so loud...
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Yeah, man! Premier made good drums. Brass shell, 14x7ish, Die cast hoops -that's gonna be a loud, punchy snare with killer rimshot potential. Brass shells also seem to have a wide tuning range, so that'll be fun to play with. As for the series and model, not sure. I'll do some digging.
60 clams ?! Schwing-g-g-g !
Alright, it's a Signia series drum, which was Premier's top of the line series in the 90's. Big fucking win, dude. You took that guy to the cleaners. :)
I've been looking all fucking day! It's incredible sounding, got to jam on it tonight. So, the previous owner did what no other drum owner has done for me. The dude took care of his shit. I didn't even look at it at the store, just walked out with it because it weighed 14 pounds. Anyways, I get it back to the shop, and notice my hand is oily. Dude kept the brass and lugs OILED, yes OILED... LIKE A GUN to keep it safe from corrosion. I took it apart, wiped it down polished the lugs, cleaned and polished the bearing edges, freed the hoops of tarnish... then I oiled the shell. Oiled the lugs, Oiled the hoops. I plan on keeping it oiled, it's quite literally PRISTINE. Not a mark on it. Put it all back together, and tuned it. My god is it loud... it's very musical, though.
Anyways, I'll pass on a good deal to whoever wants a new snare:
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/2012-03-06_13-43-57_525.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/2012-03-06_13-43-26_171.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/2012-03-06_13-43-37_832.jpg)
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff409/enslavedinrot/2012-03-06_13-43-44_858.jpg)
This just got a good scrubbing, tuning and whatnot. The bottom hoop is kinda wonky. I think someone may have dropped it... I'll give it up at 65 bucks to make my money back, I'll half on the shipping with ya. I'm thinkin' Metal Dave might want this.
Good price on an acrolite.
Show us the bearing edge of the Premier and I'll tell you what's what.
I just got a Japanese 1960's era Polaris snare recently that's pretty killer, but thanks for the thought (I'd go for it otherwise, looks like a good dealio...)
'grats on that snare snag, that's awesome !
Alright, anyone who wants it gets it!
For comparison, dude's been trying to sell this snare on the local CL for about 9 months & hasn't moved on the price.
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/msg/2883466625.html
Quick release lugs are awfully handy if you have to change a head in a hurry. They're probably the reason that non-freefloater is so spendy.
Still, after 9 months, you'd figure he'd drop a few Jacksons off the asking price.
I dunno, to the right person, that snare is worth it...
Get with the bearing edge shot. It is the key to telling you what kind of drum you're really sitting on.
Gabe was right, it is a Signia... It's not bell brass, there's a weld, it's reallllllyyy well hidden though. It's an incredible piece though, definitely a keeper for 60 bones.
No reason you can't sit on it, figuratively and literally.
Yeah, so rolled shell, rolled edge. Not what I would call a "solid" brass shell. Still a killer drum. The guy would have been a certified dimwit if he sold you a cast/milled shell for $60.
No matter, it's not goin' no wheres. Milled shells sound divine...
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When it comes to milled shells, it's one of those things where I'm not sure the difference in tone and volume justifies the difference in price. Well made drums are loud. That's all there is to it. If volume and resonance are your chief concerns, there are ways to make any well made drum hit like a truck. You can get a new Pearl, Tama, Dynasty or Yamaha 14x12 free floating marching snare for around $600. That's half what a bell brass snare went for new, and it gives you the option of putting whatever kind of shell you want in there. Those things are meant to be heard over huge distances. I dunno.
My Mapex Orions are ridiculously loud. I love those drums. I might actually oil my lugs on those tomorrow, too...
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I own a 7x13 cast steel Potyondi. The difference in tone is hard to put into words.
Oh that's right, you have a super sick kit...
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well I did...I still have my bronze and 2 snares
Did you sell it, or what?
Expensive dust collector when I did the whole college enrollment thing. Pearl masters are awesome drums but don't hold value, the sooner I sold, the more money I got.
They can always be re-had, that's why they don't hold their value.
spun brass is where it's really at
That's a good deal you got there, Sunn. I have a stainless made in England Premier that is a really nice drum.
By the way, you're supposed to clean and oil your tension rods when you change heads. A few drops of 3 in 1 oil in 0000 steel wool does the trick for me. It keeps the t rod and insert threads nice and clean and turning evenly for good tuning. For really crusty t rods, get yourself a drum key bit for your drill, and alternate forward and reverse into some oiled 0000 steel wool.
...and on that Acro ...sometimes you can straighten those triple flanged hoops out by finding the warped spot in it on flat concrete or counter top and putting it across a step or cinder block and slowly bending it back to true. Ludwig is reissuing their Acro line with the annodized finish this year. For the money, though, LM402 is the way to go.
I mean, he kept the whole shell and all of the lugs oiled. It's epic.
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That is pretty ridiculous, hahaha. I always put a little lube on the underside of the old head I'm changing out and just wipe the t rods around in it before reinstall.
What year is the acrolite, just for fun? My other snare is an acro stamped apr 7 1969
My Ludwig Pioneer is stamped sometime in April of 1969
Where would I find the stamp for the date? On the badge?
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Inside the shell. Mine's in ink so i'ts possible it has been removed.
That blackrolite that he posted won't have a date stamp, because it is too new. The badge on his looks like a 90's drum. The date stamps were done in the 1960's, and maybe into 1970, but none of my 70's Ludwig gear have any dates stamped in them.
Sunn, you still got that snare for sale?
Jah!
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Kind of off topic, but have any of you guys seen these crazy things before?
http://moleculesdrumcompany.com/PHOTOS.html#grid (http://moleculesdrumcompany.com/PHOTOS.html#grid)
(http://drumstinky.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/k2.jpg)
Yeah, they look cooler than they sound...
That dude left his left shin behind, how's he gonna kickstart his ironhead ? :P
I got a pair of 17" timbale sticks, the extra leverage is awesome for caveman knuckle-draggin' !
I had to upgrade to longer sticks myself. I need to practice more. I hate being shitty at everything.
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Well, there's always vater nightsticks. They're 17.25". The nylon tips shatter like glass, so stick with wood tips if you decide to give them a go. Regal Tip's Alex Van Halen model is longer at 17.75", but much too thin for my liking. M&B - You might dig the AVH sticks if you like them timbale sticks. SunnO))) - I think Vater's gonna be it unless you go the custom route. That's where I'm headed. A week from Thursday I'm putting in order for some weirdo super long Asgardian war clubs. Hickory for the first run, then Purple Heart if I like the product.
Quote from: Discö Rice on March 19, 2012, 12:55:06 AM
Well, there's always vater nightsticks. They're 17.25". The nylon tips shatter like glass, so stick with wood tips if you decide to give them a go. Regal Tip's Alex Van Halen model is longer at 17.75", but much too thin for my liking. M&B - You might dig the AVH sticks if you like them timbale sticks. SunnO))) - I think Vater's gonna be it unless you go the custom route. That's where I'm headed. A week from Thursday I'm putting in order for some weirdo super long Asgardian war clubs. Hickory for the first run, then Purple Heart if I like the product.
After deathfest, I'm going to tell them I want the Vic Firth Classic Metal sticks but 17.75, in purpleheart, but necked down from .630 to .600.
Cool! Just remember when you make that stick longer, the tip of the stick is going to be hitting the skins/ride cymbal MUCH harder. The taper on that model is very thin toward the tip, so it might not be a bad idea to have them beef that part up a little.
I've tried, but can't use drumsticks longer than 16½". The balance is just too far off for me. 16¼" is about perfect for the way I play.
Yeah it's definitely something that's unique to everyone. I was playing Regal Quantum 9000's from the time I started up until last year when they discontinued them. They measured 17.5", .750 at the butt with a full length distal taper down to about .550 near the huge nylon ball tip. I can't find anything that feels right, now. :'(
I realize there are only like 2 of us here that play double bass, but this is a great cover with a solid lesson at the end (lesson starts at 7:15)
His polyrhythm lessons are great too.
Easy peasy.
Lemon squeazy.
Rhymes with orange.