Must be a purchasable kit...I'm too lazy to part things out. It's been awhile since I've made a pedal and I'd like to build another one.
http://www.dwarfcraft.com/shop/tgd-diy-kit-2
TH GREAT DESTROYER
also GGG big muff
BYOC leeds fuzz!!!!!!!
I think anything GGG or BYOC is pretty good. Quality stuff too
My GGG muff kit arrived today.. I'm not to sure whether to build the green Russian or the GGG tuned version.
I hear the tuned version is very close to the blue beard? Those blue beards do sound pretty nice!
But I also do love my green Russian, so it's decisions decisions for me.
Do the input cap mod a la supercollider ;D
Input cap mod you say. The super collider has alway been of interest to me.
How might I do this?
In the mean time I'll google it.
The input section, is a cap, I think maybe 10nF perhaps 100nF (.1uF) and in parallel with it is a 10uF cap in series with 100K pot, as you turn the pot down, or up depending on how you wire it, more and more bass is let through. Allows a fairly radical shaping of the tone. That and a tweak to the tone knob I think is all that separates a supercollider from a green russian (I think, whichever one has all .1uF coupling caps)
ggg tuned rocks
Quote from: RAGER on October 21, 2011, 06:20:07 PM
Quote from: Chovie D on October 21, 2011, 02:07:57 AM
BYOC leeds fuzz!!!!!!!
Just ordered one. stoked
just checked my tracking number. It might show up today. But I won't really have time fo work on it until next week. Busy with work and gotta fix my girls Jeep this weekend. Oh man is she gonna owe me.
I really like that pedal alot, especially the scooped setting. I hope you dig yours.
I really need to make myself a Superfuzz clone soon.
Quote from: Chovie D on October 25, 2011, 06:15:17 PM
I really like that pedal alot, especially the scooped setting. I hope you dig yours.
I showed my girl what I was getting and she's like " it's $75
and you have to put it together?"
pffft. girls ::)
get started on the case as soon as you get it. sanding priming painting and labelng takes the longest to do and you can do that while you do other things due to the waiting for it to dry between coats. the soldering itself takes about 2-3 hours
yeah i've been trying to think of something cool to etch but I'm not very artsy when it comes to shit like that. I thought about maybe Pete's head but all fucked up lookin. fukn i don't know.
It got here last night. I'll build this thing next week I hope.
go Rager go!
you can use ink jet printable water slide decals to label or decorate the case.
they sell em in sheets at hobby stores fo model plabnes and shit and you can run em thru your compu printer.
Here is an amp selector I made. i kinda fucked up the bush sticker but didnt feel like redo-ing it.
also check out the gallery in the forum at BYOC website, incredible stuff there, lots a great ideas, some examples fo etching too
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/E9th/Decider.jpg)
and here be the leeds, I wanted somethign simple and mimicing the original
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/E9th/superfuzz.jpg)
(http://www.thewho.net/whotabs/images/equipment/guitar/pt_superfuzz_rsg.jpg)
Chov-man that is priceless. Can you explain what happened to the sticker that caused that pitting? did you just rush the transfer?
Just finished a Tone Machine clone, amazing Octave Up fuzz fun well worth checking out if you like octave fuzzes.
Also built a psychtar which has this really cool modulation on the octave. Supposed to suggest a sitar but in reality sounds nothing like it but still gonna be great for psych solos.
Don't get so caught up in painting the housing that you lose interest in making the pedal (like me). I had one box that I needed to clear coat like 20 times (to even it out) plus wet sanding... and now the clear coat is cracking. If I was going to do it over again, I would probably not paint at all (just go on bare metal like Devi Ever, Electro Harmonix etc) and go with a full-face sticker or decal (when you have partial decals, you can notice the edges). Also, re: paint... black doesn't work well with decals (decal sheets are transparent, or white background). Lighter colors of paint work better with decals. A full face decal or sticker would probably be easiest, and still look pro. (You still need to steel wool the box to prep it)
Quote from: bitter end on October 27, 2011, 04:01:11 PM
Chov-man that is priceless. Can you explain what happened to the sticker that caused that pitting? did you just rush the transfer?
Hey thanx! Im not sure what happened...It kind of started to bubble a little after it printed even before I transfered it and clear coated. But yes, rushing the transfer or clear coating it too soon after applying it will do similar, crackle up your image a bit.
On the superfuzz you can see i was getting a little bit of bleed also and again they just printed that way. my printer really sux ballz.
i did a few that came out perfect, but its a crap shoot for me.
The amp selector just switches the cable from the amp heads output jack to a single speaker cabinet, so that at home I could just select one of three heads to power a 2x12 without having to reach around (thats what he said). I run a marhsall 18 watt clone, a balckface bassman and a 40 watt guild thunderbass head thru it. The holes in the front are to screw it to the shelving where the amps are located
Lumpy I just cannot stand the look of the bare metal cases, to each their own tho.
Full face sticker I found to be VERY difficult to apply without getting massive wrinkling...but as you can see from the photos above, im far from pro at it.
and good point aboutn the light dark thing, too troo. for Images I like ot use a white undercoat and white stick sheets, for graphics, words, arrows, etc i like to use clear over a light colored undercoating. I did make one black pedal with white labels...meh it was okay I guess. The byoc forums gallery...just has some amazing pro looking work in there.
another thing that I like to do is use knobs other than the ones they provide, a little customization goes a long way and you can find old knobs on old stereos and shit in the trash...or order em. this is the byoc overdrive, does a nice tubescreamer imitation but I prefer a tubescreamer in the end.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/E9th/od2.jpg)
I'll prolly just use my air die grinder and make it really rough looking then paint and sand. One color for the gouged out stuff and then the pedal another color. I should be able to paint the pedal, let it totally cure and dry, then do the die grinder gouging, tape off the area shoot it then wipe down the flat areas while the paint is wet with wax and grease remover while leaving the rest of the wet paint in the gouged out text/design whatever. If that makes any sense.
cool. let us know how it goes, posta few pics when done, any probs just ask, its been a while tho so your probably better off at the byoc forums if you run into trouble. I recall teh leeds fuzz was one of their more complicated fuzzes to build , mostly because physically fitting the components and wiring into the case i remember being a tight squeeze. Enjoy! they are fun to build..and addictive (be careful).
I did the Leeds Fuzz too, it sounded really good... 'till it died. :(
Haven't gotten around to fixing it, made it a couple of weeks ago.
It's not a Fuzz but it's a bad ass vintage kit build. If you have not seen this guys other videos and pedal collection you are in for a treat. Really awesome dude!
Quote from: Volume on October 29, 2011, 03:56:21 AM
I did the Leeds Fuzz too, it sounded really good... 'till it died. :(
Haven't gotten around to fixing it, made it a couple of weeks ago.
woah! The dude who runs BYOC is very cool , at least in my experience...maybe you got a bum transistor? or more likely a short somewhere? Its a tight fit in that case, especially around where the jacks are, could be somethingis touching there and shorting it out.
Use the BYOC forums to troubleshoot, then contact dude for replacement parts if needed...ive found him to be very helpful and fast..of course I live in the same state as him so maybe thats why its so fast... ??? gluck
that kit looks cool Spook, I ike when they do it TROO to the original, even the built in guitar cable and faceplate...
Quote from: Chovie D on October 30, 2011, 11:29:26 AM
Quote from: Volume on October 29, 2011, 03:56:21 AM
I did the Leeds Fuzz too, it sounded really good... 'till it died. :(
Haven't gotten around to fixing it, made it a couple of weeks ago.
woah! The dude who runs BYOC is very cool , at least in my experience...maybe you got a bum transistor? or more likely a short somewhere? Its a tight fit in that case, especially around where the jacks are, could be somethingis touching there and shorting it out.
Use the BYOC forums to troubleshoot, then contact dude for replacement parts if needed...ive found him to be very helpful and fast..of course I live in the same state as him so maybe thats why its so fast... ??? gluck
that kit looks cool Spook, I ike when they do it TROO to the original, even the built in guitar cable and faceplate...
I'm hoping the price comes down a little on that kit then I'm going to build one. 99.00 british pounds what would that be like 150 us?
$158.30 according to xe.com ;)
fuck that, i could find an original for that much money. >:(
i'm thinking i want to build an MXR type distortion along with a warm fuzz face type pedal in the same box, running parallel to each other.
those are simple circuits, no? i'd start with the fuzz face and go from there.
How do you want to split and mix the signals?
Quote from: Hemisaurus on October 31, 2011, 11:49:13 AM
How do you want to split and mix the signals?
passively and parallel, i guess? ???
it would be just like having a splitter that feeds the 2 pedals, and then combines them.
Quote from: justinhedrick on October 31, 2011, 11:54:44 AM
Quote from: Hemisaurus on October 31, 2011, 11:49:13 AM
How do you want to split and mix the signals?
passively and parallel, i guess? ???
it would be just like having a splitter that feeds the 2 pedals, and then combines them.
well when you passively combine them say with a resistive mixer (ala bassman/plexi/modelT.....) they tend to act on one and another which may work well if you like that.
fun thread...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=82595.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=82595.0)
Yeah, basically are you going for a straight passive split? Do you want to recombine them 50/50 and have the level of each effect set a balance, or do you want to blend them?
Do you already have the effects? I could probably knock you up a six jack box, to split, feed the two pedals, get the signals back, and combine (or blend them)?
That reminds me, Herb, you know those weird phase push boxes that Gentry of Eagle Twin uses, and he got SunnO)))/Boris/etc hooked on, so all of your speaker cabs push the same phase... what the fuck are those?
Quote from: SunnO))) on October 31, 2011, 02:56:19 PM
That reminds me, Herb, you know those weird phase push boxes that Gentry of Eagle Twin uses, and he got SunnO)))/Boris/etc hooked on, so all of your speaker cabs push the same phase... what the fuck are those?
hems, i would like one of those, but i don't have the effects. well, i have distortion pedals and fuzz pedals but not the d+ and ff.
jake, i knew that the dude from ET made those active buffer/splitters that they use to combine all their amps.
a phase box would be pretty simple to make, no?
A polarity box yes, a phase box no.
The only adjustable phase tool I know of is the IBP
(http://www.littlelabs.com/images/ibp/main-image.jpg) (http://www.littlelabs.com/ibp.html)
Speakers powered by the same amp should be in polarity, a PA stack should be in phase.
Polarity is making sure that all the speakers move in the same direction when the same signal is applied to them. It's getting all your +ve's in a row.
Phase is making sure all the speakers move at the same time for the same signal.
I read someone once expounding that all members of a band had to have their speakers in phase, which was absolute bullshit, because unless everyone hits the same note at the exact same point in time. Fancy crossovers will have delay on them so you can get your flown speakers in phase with your ground speakers, or your horn speakers in phase with your direct radiators.
I imagine you could use a phase alignment tool, if you are running multiple amps, but it's going to be subjective on where you stand, and for mic'ing into a PA, it would become critical to get all the mics the same exact distance from the speaker cones, etc.
I think sometimes the slight out of phaseness can add a thickening effect to the sound. Now if you had one amp with a really non-linear frequency response it might make some very weird sounds, but no amount of phase alignment would help that.
Quote from: SunnO))) on October 31, 2011, 02:56:19 PM
That reminds me, Herb, you know those weird phase push boxes that Gentry of Eagle Twin uses, and he got SunnO)))/Boris/etc hooked on, so all of your speaker cabs push the same phase... what the fuck are those?
gentry doesnt make those. a guy named Ned does. They are just splitter boxes that multiple outs, each with a level control. Each output also has like Hemi said a Polarity switch. They are super bitchin boxes.
gentry and tyler from eagle twin do make sweet cabs though.
Quote from: rayinreverse on October 31, 2011, 04:16:52 PM
Quote from: SunnO))) on October 31, 2011, 02:56:19 PM
That reminds me, Herb, you know those weird phase push boxes that Gentry of Eagle Twin uses, and he got SunnO)))/Boris/etc hooked on, so all of your speaker cabs push the same phase... what the fuck are those?
gentry doesnt make those. a guy named Ned does. They are just splitter boxes that multiple outs, each with a level control. Each output also has like Hemi said a Polarity switch. They are super bitchin boxes.
gentry and tyler from eagle twin do make sweet cabs though.
what is the cab company called? do they sell to the public?
Isn't it Hex Cabs?
http://www.facebook.com/people/Hex-Cabs/100002301149214 (http://www.facebook.com/people/Hex-Cabs/100002301149214)
Quote from: Hemisaurus on October 31, 2011, 04:23:06 PM
Isn't it Hex Cabs?
http://www.facebook.com/people/Hex-Cabs/100002301149214 (http://www.facebook.com/people/Hex-Cabs/100002301149214)
yup. they sound awesome.
my bass player just picked one up. its the 4x10, 1x15 that they just posted a picture of.
How do I get a hold of Ned?
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1375088494 (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1375088494) at a guess ;)
Quote from: Hemisaurus on October 31, 2011, 04:45:03 PM
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1375088494 (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1375088494) at a guess ;)
Hollerin.
Quote from: Hemisaurus on October 31, 2011, 04:45:03 PM
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1375088494 (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1375088494) at a guess ;)
man. youre facebook stalking skills are amazing.
I ordered the BYOC and the GGG. The only question is how to set them up. I'm thinking of starting them both as triangles and then maybe ram's head and then finally mix things up.
populated the board on my Leeds Fuzz today. Waiting for paint to dry on the case so I can finish assembly.
Leeds Fuzz done. It's alive and well
Seems like good quality parts. probably not the best one for a beginner. Lots of soldering and a tight fit. I did a couple things differently and if I were to do another one i would do yet a few things differently. Sounds fukn great though.
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee74/spicoli420_2007/byocboard.jpg)
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee74/spicoli420_2007/byocboard2.jpg)
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee74/spicoli420_2007/byocenclosure.jpg)
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee74/spicoli420_2007/byocgutshot.jpg)
didn't do anything crazy with the case. just painted it with some leftover paint from a couple jobs. that's Fleetwood Bounder Brown and silver from a late 90's Lance Camper ;D Gonna get some different knobs today too. all the cool ones I have around are for the smaller shaft size.
(http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee74/spicoli420_2007/leedsfuzz.jpg)
yah i remember that one being a tight fit. all the ones with the jacks on the top are kinda tight, but its great having those jacks and powerjack on the top side of the enclosure. your wiring looks nice and neat.
so which one are ya gonna build next?? :D
they are like potato chips, i bet ya cant build just one 8)
analog delay and bypass looper is next
Looks really nice....mine never look that good. How does it sound? Super Fuzzes are notorious for big volume drops which can be incredibly annoying.
i uploaded a video but the audio turned out like shit. I'll probably take it down and try another one
Your build looks great, and I think you were smart not to spend a ton of time trying to make a fancy case. I will just use some type of pre-made sticker on top, if I ever get interested in building pedals again. Spend 3.99 on Ebay and get a Day of the Dead sticker or Rat Fink or whatever. Done.
you can do waterslide decals, i did that for the FAC OFF proto. Works easy and you can do whatever u want so long as the colors jive
Decals are fairly easy (and if you already have a nice home printer, bingo) but you're supposed to clear-coat them... pain in the ass.
For you (FAC off etc) if you ever start mass production, silk screened boxes look amazing. People are willing to pay more money/attention if the pedals look cool and are pro-packaged, have a cool name, nice knobs etc. There's a company that will sell you the drilled, silkscreened boxes that you drop your guts into... Pedal Parts Plus
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PPP&Category_Code=SP150 (http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PPP&Category_Code=SP150)
yea I do use PPP for all my pedal stuff (minus screening)
See here
http://stonerrocklives.com/forum/index.php?topic=3471.0
They do awesome powder coating for a good price
D'oh!
Those look sweet!
No worries man, you gave solid ass advice (so good I already followed it)
I am loving those production models.
i ENJOY making my own labels and enclosures. It's part of the fun for me. :P